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Is 3000 stall too much?


Will

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Hey guys,

 

Got the trans being built by a local guy thanks to your reccomendation. Th400 Manual body, forward pattern. He reccomends a continental converter with balloon plates. I'm not against it for the piece of mind that the whole drive train would be beefed up. While deployed my build sheet was disposed of. So I don't have the exact cam specs. Builder recommended 2600-3000. Said 3000 would be a real tire shredder. I'm gonna run hoosier slicks out back. Is the 3000 stall too much? Thoughts or opinions? Thanks

 

Will

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Will what's the motor, gear and at least estimated cam spec's? A converter will react different depending on the setup it's running in. 3000 is generally not a lot to performance people but there are "tight" and "loose" converters depending on how they're built and that makes a difference on how they drive on the street. wink

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Unfortunately all I know about the cam is it is custom ground. The engine was built to go I to a 70 chevelle. But the guy changed his mind. So the builder helped him resell it. So I picked it up for a grand under build price. Here is the engine info I have.

 

 

530 to 585+HP "502 Eater From Hell" 454: Heavy duty 4 bolt main block, fully machined (cleaned, magnafluxed, shot peened, bored, honed, align honed, square decked) fitted with ARP main bolts, brass freeze plugs & new cam bearings. New Scat steel crank, HD "H series" main and rod bearings, TRW forged pistons with graphite coated skirts, moly rings, Scat 4340 forged steel rods fitted with huge 7/16 ARP bolts, aluminum rectangle port Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, ARP head bolts, gasket matched Edelbrock Victor series intake manifold, chrome moly push rods, custom hydraulic roller cam with light weight "Transfer bar" roller lifters. Aluminum roller rockers, Double roller timing assembly, Nodular iron harmonic balancer and new flex plate. HV oil pump & HD drive, Chrome GM timing cover and chrome oil pan, killer Quick Fuel Technology 750 carb, new HEI ignition with Moroso HD hold down. Engine is fully balanced to within 1/4 gram and is assembled with stainless steel bolts

 

 

builder reccomends minimum of a B&M Holeshot 2,600 or 3000 to make it a 'real tire shredder' I have the 2600 Holeshot now. Trans guy suggests to to the better continental with balloon plates. Going manual valve body because breaks are weak now. Suspect lack of vacuum, doing hydroboost kit as well. Trans guy says the b&M in there could fail and cause some serious damage. I know this isn't much help, but aside from pulling the cam its all I got.

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From the looks of your engine combo you have invested quite a bit. Don't skimp on the converter. I'm partial to Coan and have a custom 10" that flash stalls to 4100 rpm. cool thing is it feels like a stock converter driving on the street and cruising on the highway. I'm getting ready to send it back to get it re-stalled so it will flash stall @ 4900. I have a different engine now and it makes a little more h/p and torque. Coan said that even after the re-stall it will drive just fine on the street and highway but at the track will let the engine get to it's happy place and should hit the tires hard. Just make sure you install a good trans cooler. Stack plate design seems to work real well.

 

David

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I agree with Dave and Sam, I think you will need at least 3000 more would be better. I would not pull the cam, but I would make every effort to get the specs. Most converter builders really like to know the cam. Like Sam I think the carb is a tad small. I run a 1000 cfm pro systems that flows 986

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After several unanswered emails and calls I spoke to the builder today. He said he would check his files and get back to me in a few days. Hopefully he wasnt blowing me off. More to follow

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I think 3000 will be fine. I had a 3200 ATI streetmaster converter put together for me and it did great and was not very noticeable at all as far as feeling strange driving it on the street. I am now using a friend's Edge Racing converter that was supposed to stall to 3200 in his 450lbft 383 and it theoretically should stall around 3800 rpm or so behind my engine according to the converter guy who built it. It feels identical to the ATI. I think the most important thing with your build is that you want a good strong converter in there (not a B&M) otherwise your engine may shred it and then you have to buy another new converter AND have your transmission rebuilt again.

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GOT THE CAM SPECS!!!! You have the bulk of the motor info above. Here are the exact came specs. Look forward to hearing your thoughts.

 

@.05 Int 234 Exh 242 Lobe separation angle 112

intake centerline 107 overlap 14@.05 lift Cam installed at 107

 

Heres the build sheet just for [you said a naughty!] and giggles.

 

http://s1336.beta.photobucket.com/user/Will_Bogert/media/Louis454_zpsc57d40b0.jpg.html

 

Still think I should go higher than 3000? Thanks for the advice!!

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