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centre link question


V8Freak

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so i bought all brand new steering stuff, tie rods, sleeves, idler arm etc. kept the old centre link. My question is there are rubber washers that go between the centre link and idler arm and pitman arm, I was told i dont need the washers so i put it all together today and whent too grease all the fittings and those particular spots seem too need these washers too hold the grease. I cant find these any where and jobbers want me too buy a whole new centre link for 200 but seems crazy too spend 200 for two friggin rubber washers..... Anybody run into this or have any advice?

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If I was redoing my complete front end I would replace the center link at the same time since it does have movable parts on it. The most I have seen the price on the center link is 85 dollars. maybe you need to look at other sources.

How did you loose the original sealing washers? If you used a pickle fork to separate the joint I would replace it. I usually use one of these OTC Tie Rod Remover/Ball Joint Separator, to work on steering components.

 

otc-7503_w.jpg

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$200 for a center link? shock

 

Must be some big markup when you cross the border. I would check at your local auto parts store for the "Help" section. They have a lot of little parts for cars that nobody else makes.

 

In a pinch you may be able to cut down the tie rod end rubber to fit.

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well 150 plus tax and thats cost through our dealership. and yes there is a good mark up ive been having too order everything from usa and ship back even if i use guys up here they are bringing alot of stuff across the border. I dont have the originals because i tore the car down 5 years ago lol didnt think too save them because i probably figured how difficult would it be too get them lol. My centre link is in great condition seems crazy too get a new one

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cars coming together finally but it seems i work on it for an hour and have too wait 2 weeks too get a stupid little part. she is coming along though bb and 4spd going in in the next few weeks, chassis is pretty much together and body is primed now gotta cough up 800 for body mouldings, wheel well trim and ss454 logo for fenders. god Ive never thrown this much money at something before and im not getting any crazy upgraded stuff either

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well if they are rubber ebay has 1/4" by about 1" outside diameter, 10 for 3 dollars id just order them drill the centre hole too fit on the stud snug and see what happens. I know 100 dollars doesnt seem like much and thats been in my head since ive been building this car and i keep saying that but it adds up. I think I will just rock the one i have and see if i can get these washers too work if i get them and cant do it would you really be willing too do that for me? on that note what kind of deals can you get down there in body moulding kit wheel well trim and the whitt ss 454 logo? maybe we could work something out and id give you a bit extra but on the other hand maybe it would be just easier getting the gm dealership here too ship it for me then its their problem

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Matt, the center link does have joints on the ends that wear out just like a tie-rod end or ball joint. The Moog DS749 is a pretty good one that can be had for around $60.00 at Amazon.

 

Mevotech lists the exact same thing with a number of MDS749 and can be had for like 18 bucks.

 

31QLsGQF42L._SX300_.jpg

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I wouldn't go with anything less than MOOG or Spicer. NAPA auto parts premium brand is DANA/Spicer, FYI.

 

I had a local tire shop replace my worn ball joints just before I was leaving on a road trip in my Dodge Durango. The originals had 170,000 miles on them. Later, I put new tires on it and they said my ball joints were worn out. This was after only 20,000 miles. (sorry, no warranty after 1 year). Another shop coinfirmed I had worn out ball joints.

 

How is it possible that my originals lasted 170k miles and the new ones only went 20K? Maybe it was the "made in China" stampings on the new ones they put in.

As often as you have to do this stuff, top shelf is the only way to go. Do it once, and be done with it.

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I'm pretty sure Spicer suspension components were absorbed/taken over by some other company.

 

I think the only "real" top shelf best suspension parts today is Raybestos professional grade.

 

Having said this, I recently did a complete front suspension replacement on my '03 Jimmy. The Raybestos professional grade ball joints I used said "made in China" but they looked pretty robust and had some pretty hefty boots on them.

 

About the Moog/Mevotec parts, you'd be shocked how many parts are made by other companies-and the amount of "re-boxing" that goes on. No doubt the Mevotec $18 link is the identical part as the Moog $60 part.

 

I feel that a real good grease applied often helps keep joint wear down. I use Lucas Red & Tacky.

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BTW guys, don't think that if you go with AC-Delco, you'll be getting "the best" or "the original" anymore. Here's the story:

===============================================================

AC-Delco of the past was a good quality GM controlled and operated brand. ACDelco today is post bankruptcy (it was sold off) and now gets parts from all around the world. Wire sets are assembled in Mexico with Asian components.

 

If you get a box that says AC-Delco, it's the real deal. If the box says ACDelco, it's the newer stuff. The " - " in the name is the tattletale.

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