Its Just Me

I'm with Bill. I would not recommend them. I had them on my Chevelle and after I replaced them with a good set of boxed and adjustable control arms, I could not believe how nice my car handled and rode. And no wheel hop when the rear geometry is correct (this is critical). If you have air shocks pumped up, you don't have correct geometry. Of course, back in the day I had air shocks on and rear tires like steam rollers. Ladder bars were the only option to control hop when the rear is 4 ft off the ground! If you insist on getting a set, I'm sure you could pick them up at a swap meet for under $100 from someone who learned his lesson. Bill will probably part with a pair too. FWIW Scott

Budgets were meant to be busted....Glad to be "not much help". Looks like you're learning fast. Keep us posted & start saving for tires! Scott

What did Freakshow quote for their converter? I run a Coan 2400-2600 and really like it. No issue with it pulling at idle and I get better milage than with the stock converter. I've heard really good things about Freakshow though. I'm interested in your feedback once your up & running. Scott

It looks like you went a bit overkill on the reared ...but I like it! Contact Strange Engineering and see if they offer an alternative. Maybe they have a wheel stud that will still fit your axle flange but is necked down to a more common (street) thread size? Maybe they will swap out the axles you have for a set equal but with a more common (7/16 or 1/2"), stud for street/strip use? I'm willing to bet they will work with you on a solution thats cheaper than new rims and safer than .... I run a 1/2"x 3" stud with standard shank open end lug nuts on my strange axle, centerline rims. With 275/60R-15 drag radials, this is plenty of strength for street/strip use...it just doesn't look as cool as the 11/16" do! Play safe. Scott

Straubtechnologies.com....that's all I got to say. Well, maybe I got more. Give Chris a call, tell him what you already have and what you want to accomplish. He will set you up with a hyd. roller cam that will blow you away. It's all about the combination. Chris can give you great direction and he will work with what you already have or want. He may even talk you out of new expensive aluminum heads and make your current iron heads do tricks, if you have the right ones of course! Roller cams and lifters are expensive but if you get the "right" one you will never regret it. I have one of Chris' cams in my BBC and I am on a crusade now to spread the word. And as a bonus, Crazy Davey, who visits & participates on this board, is tied pretty tightly with Straub. It's Davey's chevelle in the middle of Straubs home page. I see a blizzard in the forecast because a little power always leads to more. Good luck. Scott

So, did you get over your brain f_rt to sell this project after the sheet metal work is complete? I hope so, cuz I really appreciate your vision & would like to see it completed! AWESOME work & we appreciate your dedication & time it takes to document your work and to show it to us! Keep it up. Scott

That's what I was gonna say!

Found it...The summit part number for the Moroso crank socket is #61756 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-61756 Scott

If you don't have a crank socket by now... get one. It makes life sooooo much easier when it comes to rotating the engine precisely while degreeing the cam. I would NOT, NOT, NOT buy the proform aluminum socket #67492. You can read my review on summit website (Scott from WI). I highly recommend the STEEL moroso socket , tho I see summit doesn't have it listed anymore. Be sure to get a socket that will clamp your Pro Wheel to it. Also be aware that not all degree wheels are the same. Some will be indexed 0-90 degrees, some 0-180 and some 0-360. Just be aware of what your indexing is vs. what the instruction video is referring to. This may not make sense right now, but when you begin degreeing, it will become clear (hopefully). The Pro Wheel looks like a nice set-up and clearly marked as to what the valves should be doing and when. Nice build. You seem to be on the right track, grasshopper. I can't wait to hear how it runs. Scott

I have one on my big block also. I'm running a holley 750 carb and a 4" open element air filter. The air cleaner base has a 1" drop center and it looks tight to the hood, but I never measured. I would be very careful with the first hood closing if not using a drop center or a taller element. You'll like the intake, it's a very good, does everything well, manifold. Scott

Terry: If you haven't already purchased the GM lifter kit,...I have (and will donate to your cause), a set of GM hyd roller lifters out of a ZZ502 with less than 1000 miles on them. They come with the "dog bones" and the "spider" retainer and the GM push rods that went with this combo. I got them from a friend of mine when he went with a crower cam & lifter setup in his 502. I used the cam in my 454 but my block wouldn't accept the lifters/dog bones, or I would have used them myself. Let me know if you want me to box them up. I can't stand to hear of your problems, but don't have any suggestions. PM me if interested. Scott

Changed out the break-in oil in the SS. Threw in some royal purple synthetic. Then drove it from the shop to the garage. Hoping to get some real miles on it soon. I really like the roller cam set up. Torque is impressive, throttle response sharp. The exhaust sounds better with the increased compression. Still need to get it on the O2 meter for some fine tuning. Scott

Continued engine re-assembly. I installed the oil pump, timing cover and oil pan. Rolled the engine over and then set the heads on and checked the valve train geometry for pushrod lengths...an order to summit will be going out this evening. Did a little painting of waterpump & misc items. Can't wait to fire it up. Scott