Bluemalibu

For the last three months, my focus has had to be on completing the snowball of modifications and restoration of the Monte to be able to have it finished for the Western Meet. But, even as things have been getting hectic in these final days, and I am squeezed down to just three weeks to complete six weeks worth of work that is left to do, ...while working on 'Wax-on/wax-off' tasks, I've found myself planning out mods that I will attempt on my next project vehicle. ...And have begun to set aside the parts to implement them. This next project was actually started nine years ago. I purchased a body of a remarkedly rust-free '51 Merc Woodie that had had its top chopped and then health concerns prohibited its owner from doing more. I purchased a '72 Monte Carlo with a damaged roof that had caught a falling limb, and parted it out; taking the frame and cutting it just behind the firewall and then used 2x6 box beams welded in to just before the arch over the rear-end, to lengthen the frame four inches. The Merc's wheel base is actually only 2" longer than our cars, but the added two inches fills out the wheel wells evenly. Long-story, short... the Merc was stolen at the same time as my '70 SS454. After eight years, local law enforcement have given me hope that something of the woody may be recovered in the next six-eight weeks, as they've identified the thief and his fence. So, hopefully I'll return from the Western Meet to begin another project in earnest.

Addressed transmission cooling today by installing a Caterpillar heat exchanger, sandwiched into the lower radiator hose and plumbed with JIC hydraulic lines. The lines then feed a 10x24" stacked plate transmission cooler which dumps into a spin-on filter. Also got the passenger side Metro moldings installed.

Vincent, I'm sure that you have probably seen the write-up on this swap by SS4ever and MCno1. http://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/10746-my-ls14l60e-swap/ http://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/10720-lslsx-swaps-you-have-done/ For a lot more information, Chevelles.com has a large library on this swap: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&f=141&page=1&pp=25&sort=lastpost&order=desc&daysprune=365 As does the LS1 forum: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f124/ Stay clear of donor cars that utilize the AFM (Active Fuel Management) system in 2007-2015 trucks. They are plagued with chronic lifter collapse, high oil consumption, and stuck rings. Doug

It's pretty big... a 504ci :

Got the intake and valve covers installed on the engine to finally button her up; removed all of the weather-stripping from the car and cleaned the channels with acetone to prep for the new seals.

You might think about replacing the lower ball joint with a tall joint at the same time. This will lessen the increased height of the new springs by 1/2" and correct the inherent poor geometry of our cars which induces the bump steer that plagues us. You can see how high my red '72 below was sitting... I replaced the springs with BMR 2" lowering springs and the tall ball joints, and it was the perfect cure.

You got that straight, Rock! And as big as a pain in the drain that it was to get all of the channels and guides to marry up, the real frustration comes with adjusting the windows to fit and seal properly. I've had my side glass in for six weeks, and I've found a dozen other jobs to do on the '72, rather than to adjust those blasted windows.

Anthony, what Larry is probably recalling is that you cannot initially install the rear portion of the quarter glass into its natural home between the inner and outer walls of sheet-metal at the sail panel. The window must be installed from inside the cabin and inserted all the way down into the lower cavity, holding onto the top edge of glass, and then Lifted back up into the hollow between the seals on the inner and outer walls of sheet metal. Doug

Neither the original factory assembly manual nor the factory service manual covers the windows. The Fisher Body Manual addresses them. Here are the excerpts:

That sounds great Aaron....

I've used kind of a hybrid system that has worked well in the past to seal up the leaks until the next major re-fit... and it is not quite as involved as lifting the engine. Put the car on jack stands and drop the oil pan bolts from underneath. This will buy you an inch of working space that will allow a skim coat of The Right Stuff to be applied to both mating surfaces of the current gaskets.

Installed new valve springs, Viton seals,and titanium retainers due to the change from solid roller to hydraulic roller lifters.

Since we are on the topic... what firm is the best to use for an agreed value policy? Hagerty, Grundy, American Collectors, ?????

On a '72 V-8, the positive to the coil was brown. The yellow wire from the starter solenoid provides a full 12v to the coil during starting only. The resistance wires used were Pink with black, White with red & black stripes (mostly on straight six), or White with purple and orange stripes. To energize your HEI, you can run a 12 or 14 ga copper wire from the 'IGN' terminal on your fuse panel to the 'BATT' terminal on the HEI. The only down-side going this route is that our 40 year-old cars have poor electrical connections, so we frequently see only 10.5- 11.5v at the ignition switch. The HEI will perform best with a full 13-14v from the alternator at the battery. Since you have already located your resistance wire, if it were me, I would use that wire to trip a relay that would then provide the full output of the alternator to your HEI. Doug

That's looking great, Scott. I was able to mount my rear rotors yesterday, as well, after having the center opened up forty thou to fit over the Strange axles. Are you using Wildwood's adjustable proportioning valve, or a combination unit? Doug

Starting to get a handle on the hemorrhaging of parts off of the '72. At least the snowball isn't growing larger by the day anymore. I got the new roller cam and timing installed and dialed in; and the pan/gasket installed. Last night was another marathon session, ending at 2:45am, but the new suspension is finished; and the glass is back in (still needs to be adjusted though). The sending units and wiring for the new gauges are all in and I've devised the theft-deterrent ignition cut-out that I'll be implementing. It felt good to get back on the project, as I was out of the garage for a week, as the wife and I flew out to spend time with the grand-kids. Doug

Thanks Aaron... the excitement is building, as we get closer. Doug

This is indeed nice to work with Steve. It's as strong as steel lines in its ability to hold pressure, yet it is like 60% easier to bend and flare than steel. Double flaring is required, but it is performed so easily with NiCopp. I think that Volvo is considered by many to be one of the safest cars on the road, and they have used NiCopp for forty years. The material looks like polished stainless but has a very slight rose hue. Doug

Formed and flared NiCopp brake lines from the new master cylinder to the front C6 calipers. Man I love this stuff!!! It bends and flares so beautifully... and will never rust.

Yikes, Steve! That's a pucker inducing image!!

Thanks Jared... I just bought a second set of inner seals to modify, it'll be good to know to prevent me from wasting time spinning my wheels. It's too late to call this evening about the other parts, so I'll touch base with you tomorrow. Doug

Mark... I cringed a bit when you mentioned 6 1/2" speakers for the dash. I was hoping that you meant for under the dash. As Larry offered, acreage is tight on the left side. He is a pretty talented innovator and massaged the brackets to adapt. I just threw money at the problem to make it happen. I used a $400 pair of 2 5/8" mid-range speakers under the pad and built brackets under the dash to mount a set of 6 1/2" for additional fill.

Surfaced the engine deck with an 8" stone and likewise prepped the Patriot heads to be re-installed; formed six feet each of -10AN and -6AN A/C hard line to run from the firewall bulkhead fitting, under the passenger fender, to the dryer and Sanden pump.

Thanks...

Ah, yes... the ol' "Since this is going to be off anyway, why don't I... " snowball cascade! I too swapped in the Shiftworks tach several weeks ago for the clock, but my snowball is still gaining momentum heading downhill, so, I haven't gotten a chance to see it in action yet. Do you have yours working through a stock ignition, HEI, or MSD box? I was told that they've corrected the problems that they were having with the MSD's... I hope that that is the case.