Arvizu9618

It has been awhile since I've been into these columns but I'll have to get into my '71's soon because I cant get the lock cylinder into Accessory position (possible sector gear issue) and my key buzzer/reminder is intermittent. Psyching myself up for it, but the links and pics here will certainly help Thanks Bruce Art

Installed my new (used) trunk torsion bars. Not as hard to do as I thought. Thanks for the parts Joe Vega

Installed a aftermarket "high" note horn. Part is made by Standard, part# HN15T Now I have dual horn setup, Sounds great

I concur, gray is NOT to be grounded. Gray is for the two bulbs that light up the console indicator. The harness will have gray wire and black wire to the bulb sockets. Black is the wire that is grounded at the console mounting point. I got the harness from Classic Muscle, it was well worth the money., around $40 or so I also extended the necessary wires to the harness. A

I seem to recall "Classic Muscle" carrying the "wide" ones...a few years ago These might be them: http://www.classicmuscle.com/p-29053-monte-carlo-full-set-with-special-moldings.aspx

Thanks again to all that replied, I definitely learned something. I will be re-gapping my plugs and getting the #1487 cal kit I'll post the results when I'm done thanks Art

Hey Sam and Jason, thx for the replies. Sam, I have the jets set to stock on the carb, wouldn't setting the mixture to more rich worsen the exhaust fumes that I'm getting now? Thx again

What car has: SBC 350, TH350, HEI, Headers, Edelbrock 1406 with electric choke, stock cam, plugs gapped at .060 Idles well with 8 degrees base timing, idle is ~900 in Park, Vacuum advance is not adjustable and it is hooked up to manifold vacuum, have no idea what my total timing is. I have checked all the Taylor ignition wires for burns (none), 5 and 7 are separated well, and firing order is correct. My lean best idle is set for highest vacuum, which is ~20 and it is steady. What car does: Car does more than run like crap under load, it also puts out some real noxious odors at idle. Anyways, when I punch the car on the freeway, it bogs and sputters, I also hear what sounds like a backfire but in the exhaust. I have checked the exhaust manifold bolts, they are tight and gaskets are good. When I reach cruising speed, the car is having a hard time running steady, kind of like there is a misfire going on at cruise. Any suggestions/tips to fix would be appreciated Thanx, Art

I have a rear seat out of a 1972 Monte I'm selling on CL ($40 BTW), will it fit in any 2-door, non-convertible, A-Body car from the same era? i.e. a 1972 Olds Cutlass Thanks Art

I tried that on my 71's tank and the cap of a 70 wouldnt fit, at least without alot of persuasion. I stuck with my 71 cap, put a filter on the "Tank" vent line and "its all good" Shnalla, You might have an obstruction/clog in your vent line

Bro, you shouldn't be having this much trouble getting this car going being that you're an assistant GM at O'Reillys, again just an observation

From the looks of post #11, your fuel line isn't connected to the carb. Not trying to be a weisenheimer, just what I see

http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280051873

How about frozen yogurt? I took my wife in the Monte for some today

I'm considering these belts 3 points Certainly are cheaper at $48 PER SIDE Anybody else here have these? Art

Happy Bday to me, got my vinyl top installed today, woo hoo

I went with Procar Scat 1100's I love 'em but not happy with driver side mounting bracket. Seat sits too close to steering wheel even when all the way back. That's what I get for buying the exact brackets for the Monte not the Shovelle. Thanks for your responses Art Scat 1100's

I used a product called Duct Insulation from Frost King. About $20 a 15 sq foot roll at Home Depot. I used a couple of rolls in the car, Along the doors, back qtrs, under rear seat and along the tranny tunnel. I got new carpet with Mass backing so i didn't see the need to do the whole floor board. the stuff is on only 1/8" thick, door panels went back on great. Its more of a closed cell foam base so no pesky tar fumes whatsoever. Happy so far Art Dynamat vs. FrostKing

I did that one time with LCA's, never again

Hey Murph, I might hit you up for some of that dum dum tape when I'm ready to put my A/C back together. Did you ever have your POA Valve recalibrated or reconditioned for R-134? Thanks Art

Hey Murph, I had it painted at a shop right next door to the old Earl Scheib shop (No affiliation, I swear) at 43rd Ave and Indian School. The guys name is Ali and he is super cool, he encourages you to visit the shop as much you want to see the progress on your car. He and his guys did, IMHO, an outstanding job. They fixed my warped tail panel like brand new. His number is 6024008869, a little hard to talk to on the phone I live in west Phoenix, just south of the cards stadium, BTW My son just informed me today he saw another '71 around 43rd and Bethany with my same color scheme

Brought my '71 back from the paint shop today. Color is Magnetic Gray Metallic I love it, now the fun begins, putting it back together [img:center]http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/pictur...072&thumb=1[/img]

Scraped out all the tar paper (Sound Deadener) inside, getting ready to install console, buckets and new carpet with mass backing

Thanks guys...all great suggestions and insight, cheers to you Jeers to the P.O.

The prior owner tied a piece of rope around the trunk catch area to pull the car out of the garage, hence the panel is now bowed out. He attempted to straighten it out with alot of bondo but the bow is still there. I've dremeled the trunk catch away from the panel in order to deadblow hammer the area to attempt to straighten it out. It's moving ever so slightly but its really distorting the point area all to H#LL. I'm obviously not a body guy, any suggestions short of replacing the whole panel, to straighten this area out? Is a replacement piece available aftermarket? thanks guys Area 1 Area 2