Sam (Bones)

you should really address the flooding issue before changing plugs, it'd be a shame to foul out a set of new plugs

lots of possibilities float got stuck chock also could have stuck choke vacuum pull-off (vacuum pulls the choke off as it warms up) but with that much fuel going into the engine I would look at the float pull the air cleaner off and try to start it, you'll know if its the float, you'll see gas coming out of the top of the carb sometimes you can tap on the carb with a hammer "LIGHTLY!" and it will free the float

but whatever you do...if using the stock rods replace the rod bolts with ARP rod bolts and have them resized and the rotating assembly balanced!!!!!

If you don't plan on spinning it past 6000 rpm, stock sized valves are fine, probaby better than oversized valves, the bigger valves really shine past 6000 rpm

actually, a well balanced factory cast crank, and a main stud kit is good for 600 horses

A 4 bolt is not nessisary, keep the compression under 10:1 esp with iron heads, a speed pro L2399F piston has a 13.8cc dome, I'm running these with 781's shaved down to 108cc and giving almost perfect 10:1, I had my block decked .010 too

the key to success with the Pertronix is using the correct parts, using a incorrect coil will kill the magnetic pick-up, follow Pertronix recommendations and you won't have any issues

NOW!!!!! if you replace it....make sure you wire it to an ignition circuit NOT! an accessory circuit otherwise it will not get power while cranking the starter

the factory wire to the coil IS! a wire with a specific resistance built into the wire

good torque to about 4500 rpm, then they're all done avoid peanut ports, look for 049 or 781's

no, that was my 12:1 solid roller, that was a 7000 rpm burnout

if you use the poly bushings, you do not need to worry about the procedure above, poly bushings inner sleeve turn inside the bushing, that's why if not properly lubricated they will squeak, and why they end up squeaking after some time

ok now....160,000 miles on it, you know the answer

Edelbrock Air Gap

I agree with Bruce, lift the shifter, move it around and see if it cranks

there is a hidden partial VIN under the heater box, right below where the blower motor is, but the heater box must be removed to see it

yep the first thing is to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate and run the engine to see if it still has the vibration this will eliminate/confirm if it's the torque converter/trans or with-in the engine

a 454 is externally balanced, the proper balancer and flexplate are a must or it will vibrate

the 3.31 is a nice gear if you can find it, IMO...I wouldn't go more than a 3.42 unless you opt to get a overdrive trans

mine sits about the sAME

3 1/2" all the way back with Flowmasters I'd like to drop down to a 3"

no, that's for 1970, in 1971 I think it was down to 6 different springs, not sure about 1972

in 1970, they used 10 different springs, in the aftermarket world, it's going to be tough finding what you want, my only recommendation is to go to coil-overs

they are an A body, and Chevrolet called them A body special, styling ques came from the El Dorado it was Chevrolet's response to the Grand Prix, but they do not share the same frame, the Monte has the same dimensions as the Chevelle from the firewall body mounts back