Sam (Bones)

well that's going to bump compression in a 350 almost 2 points which will put it over 10:1 and you will need to be careful with cam selection, you could end up needing more than pump gas

is this true for both 70 & 71?

depends on the size of your current combustion chambers vs. the size of the combustion chambers of the replacement heads your engine came with a steel shim head gasket and just by changing to a newer MLS gasket will cost you some compression, so if the new heads have even bigger combustion chambers, you would lose more compression so all the money you are putting into it isn't going to really gain you anything\ you need to know all the little details so you can build a good "COMBINATION" that works together

if you get them off without breaking the tab....consider yourself lucky actually you don't need them, the armrest will hold them in position it's just easier to install everything with the clips holding the chrome trim to the door panels unless the chrome trim is in excellent condition, I would just break-off the tabs and push it thru to save the clips and buy new re-popped chrome trim

the only return spring my '70 4 speed had was off the clutch fork

I am very good with 4150 carbs so I think I can apply that to a 4500 Dominator raise the fuel pressure to 7 psi first (I run 7.25 on my Pro-Systems 4150) then lower the float levels to 1/4 in the site glass (anything over 40% in the site glass can start pulling fuel from main metering way to soon, even at idle) your base timing with your engine will need to be around 20 BTDC test drive it next, if it's still way rich, take some fuel out of the intermediate circuit first, while cruising you are mainly running on the intermediate circuit, I'm not sure if a 4500 even uses a Power Valve but we'll look at the later

according the the 1970 assembly manual, the spring just hooked to a hole in the frame

that is cool! Dee has a picture of her with the cup from 1998 around here somewhere

there was a guy here from down-under that has one of them!

I know the original ground went to the alt bracket but that can cause a grounding issue rust can form between the bracket and block easily, or if it's freshly painted can cause issues to I like the take the battery ground directly to the block to eliminate any issues there

I WANT A RIDE!!!!!

Vince has a video of that ride from inside my monte, I will post it when we get it uploaded

a 3.08 is not a common gear for a Chevrolet, these 12 bolts could be BOP axles, which are different from a Chevrolet 12 bolt

anytime! I've been around the block a few times and I do this stuff for a living :wink:

You're over thinking it, cut the lines with some side cutters

This is all Vince! I had nothing to do with it And yes Vince deserves a giant THANK YOU!!

Time to replace it

If you are going to replace them...cut them off and use a 6 point socket on the line nut

try opening your idle screws another 1/4 turn at a time, Qjets idles screws should be out approx 3 full turns or more

what was worse is he was laughing at me when I went to his car to thank him after he let me off with a warning! he was a very cool Lt. Deputy Sheriff

the 454 I just built with the oil clearances on the loose side of spec (.025-,030) with a hi volume, hot oil pressure @ 800 rpm with 5W30 syn oil...20 psi

you can use the same steering shaft, as for the driveshaft, I would have a proper one made as for headers...the Hooker part number that fits Montes is 2455, but I would advise against Hookers, I just installed a set of their stainless steel 2455's and buy they needed some tweeking, and if you do go with the Hookers, the brake proportioning valve will have to be moved

I'll give an educated guess that the bearing clearances are a little too much