680HPStroker

I'm waiting for GMPP to bring out the 6L80E as part of their line up. It's currently being used in trucks, G8 GT's, Corvette's, the new Camaro, and probably more. From what I've seen of the internals it looks like it can hold as much power as a 4L80E and a that tranny holds 900HP in stock trim.

I'm once again in agreement here with Allan. For my money I'll stay with AFR for the rest of my life. My 315's on my 489 work like a charm. If I ever step up to real big league displacement AFR has either a set of 335, or 355 CNC heads that will definitely do the trick.

Make sure the day that your hood arrives that you take it out of the shipping packaging, have your stock hood already removed, set the fiberglass hood in place and check to make sure it's not warped before you let the truck driver get away. Once he drives away you own the hood no matter what shape it's in. My VFN hood was drop shipped to a body shop and they didn't check it before the truck left. Once it was discovered the hood was warped and VFN was called they said you have to inspect the hood immediately when it comes off the truck as once you sign for it you own it. I got screwed and will never buy another product from VFN.

All 1972's were body color.

1972 = 1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm just the opposite. I use a Allen Grove mid mount alternator bracket and a Bills's Brackets P/S bracket. Both are great pieces. I'm going to eventually get my alt bracket chromed, but need three other small pieces that need chromed to make it worth while.

What Allan said, but only if your power level warrents a 3" exhaust. Bigger is not always better.

Go over your combo with several header manufactures to come to the correct primary tube size for you. Always mention future mods unless you want to buy another set down the road.

B&M Pro-Rachet(carbon fiber) is what I have. The shifter is located for my driving position and I have no reach issues with a bench seat. I'm on the short side and was concerned about reach when I put the shifter in, but it's just fine. Try it, you will like it.

It's their 3 circuit Pro-Street Dominator. Check out AED's website. This frigin carb is awesome. It has all the great things a dominator is good for and none of the bad street driving manners they are known for.

After my last cam, intake, and carb change my engine ran fine, but after about 8-12 months I developed a pretty noticable hesitation going from part throttle steady state cruising to wide open throttle. I finally turned it over to my dyno shop and he addressed this issue. What was happening is that when the secondaries on the dominator would kick in I was in a lean condition measured by a wide band O2 sensor. I'm still not straight on all the technical jargon, but the answer to this problem was to open up the suirter .010". I'm still running a little rich at idle and part throttle(12:1), but not so much as it will foul my spark plugs. An air bleed should fix that part, but I'll wait a while on that. Just for information purposes I called the carb manufacture(AED Perfomance)to get their insite. They said they would use a different approach. They said that what was done was not wrong and is typically what is done by carb tuners, but it's only masking the real problem and may make a BB a little lazy off the line. They said they would have left the squirter alone and would have started with setting the idle speed lower than normal, then adjust the idle A/F mixture screws until the engine started to slow, then they would have adjusted the screws one to one and three quarters of a turn to bring the mixture to the high side. If the hesitation was still present they would have then changed the intermediate air bleeds. I pick up my car today and my dyno shop agree's with AED in theory, but 15+ years of tuning carbs has taught him that this is the best fix for a dominator carb that is otherwise running well. Interesting that there is two schools of thought to acheive the same result. Just thought this would be some interesting information for anyone who has encountered this very same problem.

Congratulations! Belief me I know money can be an issue with this kind of project project, but please take your time, don't cut any corners to save money, and build it to the strength you will need for all your performance goals. To many folks throw engines together with the wrong combination of parts and are later disappointed with the performance and the fact they didn't hold up in the environment they were in. I'm not the expert here, but if you wan't I can put you in touch with someone who helped me pick the best combination of components to acheive my performance goal. This guy hit it right on the head. Good luck to you.

When I get around to it I'm going to make a custom mounting bracket out of aluminum flat bar with a 45 degree bend on the bottom and a 90 degree bend at the top. It will attach to the underside of the dash assembly using the 45 end and it will be tall enough that the 90 on top will have the platform for the tac in perfect line of sight looking down the track/road. I'll then polish it and have it either anodized, or chromed. I've never seen this personally, but I'm sure someone has done it.

I agree 100% with Allan's sugestions and if you don't want to open your trunck and see all that Dynomat fabricate, or have someone make you a custom deck lid cover out of a very light weight material and then cover it in what ever your favorite material and screw the cover into the deck lid framing(be careful you only need screws long enough hold it on and if you go to long you are poking into the top of the deck lid. Better idea would be to turn the stereo down/off and let the sound of your engine/exhaust be music to your ears. I'll never put a stereo in my Monte. For me it takes away from the whole feel of having an old hotrod/muscle car.

The G-machine full kit includes Hotchkis springs, KYB shocks, G-Tech sway bars, and IMCO billet aluminum adjustable control arms. I would use new rubber body mounts and poly eveywhere else. If you are rebuilding your front suspension I'd suggest all new oieces from MOOG. If you are switching from a small to a big block I wouldn't waste my time modifing your existing exhaust system to adapt to your new BB. It's probably going to be too restrictive anyway. I have a full Torque Tech 3.5' into 3" x-pipe exhaust system and love it. It was a breeze to install as it fits like a glove. Everyone has their own opinions on exhaust, but I'm telling you this system is what all GM "A" body cars should have came with as stock equipment. Nay sayers will have input about X vs H pipe systems, but you will not be dissapointed with Torque Tech.

I had a complete G-Machine suspension and loved it. I still have all, but the KYB shocks installed. I switched to QA1 for more suspension setup flexability. The billet control arms are awesome. You won't be diappointed

I don't buy into anything as a belief. I only go on facts that I know first hand. Spray whatever you want, but in the end it's your opinion and you are entitled to it. I will never go on what I've heard, or what the crowd says, but rather on many experiences and not on a one time deal. I'm done with this post. I'm tired of beating my head against the wall. You can't fight, well you know.

It's pretty much all been covered here already, but I'll put in a plug for rear gear ratio's. Anything below a 3.55 gear won't be worth the effort of installing an overdrive. If it were me I'd install an Eaton series 3 posi unit and set of Richmond 3.73 gears in the rear prior to installing an overdrive tranny. I'm still very biased and prefer a PROPERLY BUILT 700R4, but you can save little weight and use a PROPERLY BUILT 200R4. Make sure you buy a custom torque converter vise an off the shelf unit. If it were me I'd install a manual lock-up switch to delay lock-up until you want it. Finally you will have to relocate your crossmember further back and shorten your drive shaft unless you buy a custom made one. That way you can go back to a turbo 350 if you choose. There are several companies that make floor shift adapter kits for your swap. Make sure you choose a shop who specializes in overdrive swaps and builds performance units that have a reputation of holding up under severe duty conditions.

Obviously not enough homework, or you wouldn't be spraying this sort of rhetoric.

Steel ones from Leo here. Much better looking and stronger than the plastic POS ones.

All this 700 bashing band wagoning cracks me up. I'll make one last statement and then I'm done on the subject for good. There are alot of 700R4 tranny's out there behind 600+ HP engines that are and have been doing just fine with zero issues. Just like anything else you get what you pay for. If you don't do your homework, save the right amount of money, and be sure you have chosen the right builder you will always lose in this endevor. The hot/cold forged parts that are out there for a 700R4 make this once meek everyday tranny into a beast with high power capacity. Mine lived behind a BB that put down 534HP to the wheels for two years before I sold it. Now it's going behind another 600+ HP BB. Transmissions are like anything else if you don't know what you are doing, or don't have the confidence that someone else is competant to do the job right don't do it. It will always result in what has been listed here. Get off the 700 bashing band wagon, get the facts straight, and either build, or have one built the right way. If you have lost confidence in the 700R4, buy something else, but please don't get on here and blast a good quality GM product that was never initally intended to be used in a performance application. Ok, Im off my soap box. You can bash all you want because this is the place folks do this when they don't have to look someone in the eye when they are called out.

As I stated before the tranny is not the problem. When properly built and installed a 700R4 will give years of trouble free service. Performance 700R4 transmissions are an art. Not something your typical local tranny shop is capable of, or wants to build. They only know stock and that's all they want to know as any time you talk performance work for anything you will never have as much profit as a stock build. That is if you are going to do the right thing and offer an iron clad warranty. When it comes to a performance 700R4 you get what you pay for. Same applies to anything. Reliable performance costs a lot of money.

Find another tranny shop. A PROPERLY BUILT 700R4 should give many years of trouble free service.

That 700 has too much drama. Start over.

Cool beans Sam!