DragCat

Just for anyone following along, I believe Joe had an issue with the steering column lockout arm but he's using an "updated trans. I have the TH400 on the new GM Crate motor and the arm wouldn't clear the header either. Its not s show stopper, might fab something in the future after i'm out running around.

Dash really looks good Joe! Looks like you got the label maker for the wiring, interior side looks scary at the moment. Whats the remote on the passenger front tire control? 🤣I gotta remind myself your progress is in the "new guy" thread. Be safe and take care of yourself when you go to onsite lockdown next week!

Yea who wooda figured it was that tight. I think i'll dry run the drivers side today just to check the other side. Right now i'm considering myself lucky 1, that my buddy had one that fits, 2 that I was able to find the same vintage socket for sale.

Got the steering column lockout linkage installed, thanks Tom and Joe. Bolted the converter to the flex plate but had to call a buddy to educate me on bolt grades so I could torque properly lol. So tomorrow is torque and install the starter and start working under the hood. All progress is good, or as I say on the golf course at least I advanced the ball in a forward direction.

Just an update to let you know how tight the clearance is on cylinder #4 spark plug. I bought the Lowes Kobalt 13/16 spark plug socket. Measured the same length 2 1/2" as my buddies old champion socket except it took a 7/8 wrench to turn. DID NOT FIT. I was lucky enough to find the exact model # 13/16 champion spark plug socket (luckily my buddies was still in good enough condition to read the lettering and numbers) on Ebay so I ordered it. The HD socket was a 1/4" to long and took a 22mm wrench.

Looking good, I plan to start under the hood tomorrow/monday

Hey Jeff, while your doing your searching I remembered this thread (couldn't find it the other morning) which at least for me had a very informative comment regarding Back Space and OffSet .

Hey Jeff, looking forward to seeing your Monte pic's. Below is a link from the site to get you started, you can also use the search feature to look for "rims" "tires" as there a bunch of threads depending on your use and how you want the stance to be.

Well how easy and obvious it is when you know where and what your looking for lol, thanks guys. My rubber bushing was still sitting in the bracket, no washer but I think I can dig one up in the garage somewhere.

Thanks, again sure looks nice and clean. I like the look but its one of those things that never makes it to the top of the to do list lol

Just an update and thanks for all the suggestions/info so far. As i mentioned, I didn't have a 13/16 spark plug socket, but I have at least two 5/8's rolling around in the drawer lol. My buddy (when I returned his engine hoist) lent me his 13/16 spark plug socket, but its not a socket that goes on a ratchet, he uses a 3/4 box wrench on it. When I got home the socket went on the spark plug easy, but not with the box wrench on it. But I was able to tighten/loosen with a 3/4 open end wrench so it looks like thats my fix. I'll have to look at the big box store ones Joe mentioned for actual size or maybe go with (posted link below) something like this from summit as long as I verify I can wrench it and its length. I'm sticking with the crate supplied spark plugs for now just for the simple reason thats what they built it with or at least shipped it to me with. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lag-529

Yep, sure looks nice and clean. Do you make your own hoses and fittings lines or are they pre-built?

Thanks for the info I'll try Lowes today the web says they have 1 in stock. I have to return my buddies engine hoist and there is a Lowes down the street. I usually prefer HD but they are making people stand in line outside the store (not complaining) and I can social distance myself in the tool section with my mask and gloves. Of course I have the 5/8 specific spark plug socket lol. I think that should address the clearance, its just a bit to beefy

I'm gonna say the angle of attack, the socket alone will not pass the header pipe to slide down onto the spark plug to tighten it.

Yea my socket is from a different set than the "wobble" and extensions. The socket alone won't clear the header pipe to grab the plug.

Thanks Joe, great pic's. I'm hoping the washer and bushing are still in place as I don't recall them falling off when I removed the rod and I don't remember any extra parts on the floor lol. But minor detail, tomorrow is another day

Ok maybe I need a smaller socket lol. Mine looks a little chubbier than your lol

Lol Paul, yes its #4 cylinder plug, and its the second plug back from the front #2 plug. My mind was working faster than my typing fingers. At least I got it right in my original question/post lol

Ok. i'll have to look closer around. I didn't see anything obvious but then again I didn't know what or where I was looking for.

Yea my list seems to be growing too, the amount of post it notes on the door is multiplying. I hope to have underneath finished and start working under the hood by friday lol

Ok i'm confused. the lower end of the picture rod goes into the "bracket" where the the shifter cable connects with a pin. The piece in the middleish connects to the rod going to the steering column . Where is this thin washer and nylon bushing ?

Ok Paul, thanks for both posts. Maybe Joe has a fix/work around. And yes #8 is closest to the firewall and #2 is the 2nd back from the front. I haven't made it to the drivers side yet.

Hey Paul, don't know if you would see my other post, do you have an issue with #4 ?

Ok, despite my best efforts to picture and document everything on my disassembly I have no idea where this spring goes. I checked TPP and their steering column lockout doesn't include a spring. When I bag'd and tag'd everything I taped the spring to the shaft its sitting on in the picture. I have no clue, Anybody ?

Hey Joe, or Paul, have either of you had an issue with the #4 spark plug access ? Either I need a special plug socket or i'm going to have to remove the header to tighten # 4.