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What about lash caps? They slip over the top of valve stem. My Z28 has them on there, roller cam, etc.

https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/resources/productionnumbers/

Here's an update on the Monte LED conversion that was mentioned in another thread. Initially, when I built the car, I installed Hella 'Conversion Plus' Halogen lamps. These use a 9003/HB2 bulb insert into the light housing. These are also the US/DOT approved lights, vs. the 'ECE' (European) spec lamps offered as well. A call to Hella at the time said use the DOT ones. (Amazon may not have stocked the ECE ones, or I probably would have got both types to compare). While a step up from the regular lamps they replaced, they simply can't compare to LED lights. I played around a couple weeks ago with the lights on my Western Snow Plow frame. Bought a bunch of different brands from Amazon (offshore-real cheap, fair amount of poor reviews for longevity; Sylvania-not cheap at all; and Philips-reasonably in the middle). After a lot of swapping I determined the Philips were the best. Ended up changing the Low, High, and Fog lamps as well, still trying a few different brands, ended up with Philips. Decided to see if they offer a LED replacement for the Monte, which they did (9003USLED) This time I never bothered to try anything else. After installing one side, I took a quick measurement with a light meter. The comparison on the low beam was 28,000 Lux vs. 38,000 lux. A pretty substantial gain. At that point I decided to go ahead and install them permanently. A little Trim Black' paint on the heat sink will hide them a little better, but since it's a 'Safety' modification, it shouldn't count against me . The Z/28 is the next one to convert, already have the bulbs in stock. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-002395301 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BTFGJXP5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Low Beam: High Beam:

This link didn't work for me. Does this look similar to what you have? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097BWYYLC/ref=emc_bcc_2_i?th=1

I'm literally doing the same thing in my car (just the headlights though). I'll be posting pics tomorrow as well. I have the Hella Halogens I got a few years ago though, then I got Philips LED replacement bulbs to use last week. I tried a bunch of the other LED replacement brands when I converted my truck a few weeks ago, and the Philips seemed to be better than the other ones I tried (a bunch of import ones, and also Sylvania LEDs from Amazon), plus the reviews on longevity and durability seemed more favorable. They weren't the cheapest, but weren't the most expensive either. Like you have found, night and day difference.

This is how to properly install the 8400 clips: https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/23354-chrome-stainless-polishing/#comment-219062

Like Dennis and Steve said, for the bottom rocker trim, the Auveco 8400 is the best option. They go on a particular way though, if installed wrong, they'll pop out. Not difficult to figure out, but I'll post a pic later, after I get home from Dr.

Summit has always been great with any issue I had. When I had those 3 bad AMD rear bumpers, they were fantastic. Recently I tried to return some Black spray paint I didn't like. They can't take it back because it's 'hazardous', so they simply refunded the full cost and said toss it out, or use it somewhere else. One other time I forgot to add something to an order and called them right up after I noticed it. Well, I was too late, but they shipped out the part I needed, and waived the shipping fee entirely for that small part. Can't beat that!

Summit is almost the 'Amazon' of the performance world nowadays. Whenever I see something I want (especially if it shows up at OPGI first), I'll simply google the part number, and almost always Summit will be there in the search results. Same with Amazon, so it's usually a toss up of getting past the Summit minimum free shipping threshold, or paying a couple dollars more & getting it shipped for free from Amazon. Summit's customer service is right up there with Amazon as well, top notch.

Looked a little deeper in the service manual. It looks like the Comfortron system came in the 'Chevrolet' and the '125 W.B. station wagon'. I'm taking that to mean the full size chevy, Impala. (W.B. = wheel base). The rest of the models, including Corvette had the 4 seasons system. A couple different spots and tables show the differentiation between the other models (including the 116.W.B. wagon), and the Chevrolet/125" W.B wagon. Disclaimer: I only looked at the 1972 Service manual because it's sitting right here next to me in the living room. I'm going to go out on a limb and say 70-71 are probably the same. If I find out different, I'll update. Finally, yes, post pics. You know how we like pics around here. 🙂

I told him basically what you said, it's just easier to say yes now and be done with it, a lot easier for everyone 😁. Also, that everyone has thanked me later, because they had such a great time after attending.

That's great news Rob! I just got off the phone with Scott S. (from Alberta), where we discussed that very subject. Once you meet the people in person, it's a whole different light that this group falls under. (Mark, you'd be proud of my efforts to convince Scott (and a couple others) to "at least reserve a hotel room"..😁)

I mounted my D/D unit on the face of the HVAC box with velcro strips. It's out of the line of sight and from getting kicked, but easily accessible if ever needed to access it. Also shown is the D/D BIM unit to access the Holley EFI module, (shown in the upper right side, with custom mounts). Not shown were a couple extra modules for other things put there as well. When I put the D/D unit in my Camaro, I used the same strategy, and also on the D/D unit in the 62 Impala I did last year. I'm supposed to install one in a '55 Chevy this year, and maybe another member's Monte too. I'll probably mount them in the same fashion.

The speakers I used didn't affect the Dakota Digital in my car, volt meter works fine. At the time, I ordered a bunch of speakers from Amazon to test fit for the dash. All had too big a magnet to work, which ultimately led to the installation of the ones in my post above. (thankfully, Amazon has a very good return policy 🙂).

Look here: https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19368-new-guy-here/page/5/#comment-212258 As I also said on your FB post, when I asked about kick panel speakers a few years ago, someone here responded that they're great...if your ankles have ears. I didn't go that route.

Depends on what type of piston clearance you have. Put the wrong ones in and you'll have more problems.

Doubtful it's silicone. More likely it'll be a window grade urethane.

You're welcome.

That's why they're usually bashed here, and the last choice on the list for a parts supplier. (I sent you a PM too)

This is probably the only thread in recent history that you didn't hijack (until now)

This snip from the GM Heritage package also shows the two different groups, and what it consists of. Note, that for a 1970, it appears W/S washer monitor is included. 1971 and 1972 shows the W/S system as a separate, different line item , and simply ACC with no RPO number. Doesn't necessarily mean there isn't a RPO number, because the individual lights on the build sheet do appear to have a number assigned to them. 1970: 1971 & 1972: Make sure that "Clip # 3" is included if possible. That holds the cable to the ashtray housing.

Not sure as far as part of the U46 monitor group, but the 72 Customs have the ashtray fiber optic light. The fiber optic plugs into a special lamp socket from one of the instrument cluster lamps. Also has the underwood, mirror lamps, foot well courtesy lamps, etc. as part of the Auxiliary Light Group, RPO ZJ9. (pretty much all the lights listed on your build sheet above). That lamp group comes standard on the Custom, and apparently an option on the other years as well. Look a little further on your sheet, is ZJ9 on there?

Yep, when in doubt....read the instructions. It depends on what model you have though. As mentioned, they have different models where the instructions say remove resistance wire/ballast and upgrade coil. This was also included on the instruction sheet for the 1181 unit:

Good, you have less than 4 months to get it done for Carlisle. Should be a breeze, they do it on TV in an hour usually, sometimes two 😁.