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My opinion, just leave the bad one on there until you're ready to do the job correctly. The PAG oil used for a R134a system is 'hygroscopic', meaning it absorbs moisture. If you just pour oil in the compressor, without evacuating it and then install it, the inherent moisture that is in the system can turn to acid and cause more problems. The daughter's boyfriend should know this if he's a halfway decent technician. Otherwise, like Rob said, bring it to a shop that knows what they're doing. If that new compressor grenades, it'll send metal throughout the entire system. Then you'll be flushing and replacing everything. Don't even be tempted to try & charge the system with that crap you see on TV...'ACPro in a Can'. That stuff has sealant in there that'll cause more expensive problems as well. Use good virgin R134a, and give it a shot of A/C dye to help locate leaks down the road if you wish.

The oil requirements for R12 & R134a are different. Did you get a Sanden compressor, or have the large original type? Do you have the right tools as well, such as a vacuum pump, gauges, refrigerant weight scale, etc?

That's the beauty of retirement, you can stay inside, nice and warm now. No particular hurry to do anything. I already went in the hot tub this morning, and had another nap after breakfast. Even the dogs love it. (The other one is up in the warm water bed)

Just saw this on FB, how appropriate.

I posted the clip links and the suggestion to use the Assembly Manual to help you determine what size clips are required, and where they go. That will help you determine if that particular size clip would go on the line, or the spring sheathing. It's pretty simple really....

I guess I'm not quite understanding what you're having difficulty with. The clamps go where they're supposed to on the frame locations, and they're sized accordingly. If it's going around the line only, it'd be 3/16, 5/16,or 3/8" (whatever the line size is). If it's going around the spring protector, it'll be the next size clamp up, that fits around the line properly. The Assembly manual shows the line and clamp placement pretty clear. I've also googled the GM part number of the clamps listed, if I wasn't sure and went from there, as far as size and style. You can also google the part number and put 'AMK' after it, and it should take you to a catalog page on their site. (it's easier if you use the 'Find' search feature to locate the part number on the page that google finds). Here's an example of what pops if you google 3952718 AMK: https://www.amkproducts.com/bulk-fasteners-listing/?codeforlookup=7730 which will ultimately take you here once you find it on the previous page by the GM part number serch and click the picture of the clamp. https://www.amkproducts.com/bulk-fasteners-products/?Product_ID=10023 Easier yet, just enter the GM part number in the AMK search box, and it'll produce a result, if they have a corresponding match. Most of the clamps can be sourced from Inline tube though, maybe cheaper, maybe not. Inline doesn't typically use the GM part numbers, but once you decide what you want from the other search, it's pretty easy to see what crosses over at Inline. https://www.inlinetube.com/collections/clips-clamps Complete clip sets: https://www.inlinetube.com/collections/all/?year=1971&make=chevrolet&model=monte carlo#?f=Vehicle Clip Sets|

I got the fuel/brake line clamps from Inline Tube, when my factory ones weren't in good shape. They have a real good selection. I added different sized lines with the EFI too, so they had OEM looking clamps to accommodate that as well. Do you have the Factory Assembly manual? They have pretty good diagrams of that stuff.

I had to take a grinder to one of them, but it works great now.

I've replaced the A/C harness before. Pretty sure you can remove all of it, but you would need to get some connectors off the HVAC control switch, plus a couple other spots. Not impossible to do, but removing the dash pad may make it a lot easier. You could also tape it all off and push it back thru under the dash, but you said you're trying to clean things up. I also have special wood blocks to keep the engine in place without the trans for my Monte & Z/28. Even labeled them so I don't use them as a scrap for something else 😁

You mean 4 PM 'til after dinner then gone?

Congratulation Tom! Hopefully you will have time to join us at Carlisle this year now?

If I tried to push my hose over to the left, it would kink a little near the radiator neck, so I just let it lay as it is. Even then, with my hose, that zip tie would be on the very last tooth to engage, and when the pressure builds up would not be ideal. I forget if it's a Gates or a Dayco hose.

They'd be too short for the radiator hose, unfortunately. Maybe get a couple of them and heat fuse them together to the right length, would probably be the most factory correct looking? With a $30 minimum order & $10 shipping, that would be a no go, unless some other stuff needed to be ordered at the same time.

I actually have those in stock, and tried it at the time this post came out. Wasn't perfect, but they're better than nothing? In my case the Amazon one was a little short, so I added a regular zip tie (hidden underneath) to extend the reach & make it work. If they made them 10" long, it would have been perfect. These were the ones I ordered, and were also 8.3" (210 mm) and unfortunately, the longest offered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CBNZTNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 I haven't decided if I'm going to keep it on there yet...

The hose is 'trim to fit'. Trial and error is about the only way, but remember....measure twice, cut once. I seem to recall years ago there would sometimes be a line marked on the hose if it were for multiple applications, but still wouldn't trust that without checking the fit first.

I made it out of 1/4" stainless rod, never had any issues.

I made a J-hook tool years ago. Worked pretty good, until I started using the 'porta-power' method now.

Autowire has direct fit, plug & play harnesses as well. They tend to be less costly than M & H, at least when I priced them out a few years ago. It'll come with glass fuses and all. At the time, M & H was building to order too, which meant a few month wait time. Top quality stuff though, but the extra cost and long lead time ruled them out for me. Worth calling though, their salesperson went over everything needed and priced it out. Not a lot of paperwork included they said, they refer you to GM factory wiring diagrams. Not a big deal for me. I have all that stuff anyways, but worth noting. If you're planning to add anything extra to the car, the AAW 'Classic Update' kit is a better choice, but requires you to terminate some of the wire ends yourself. This also allows you to run the wires how you like it though. That kit would be: number 510336 You'll still need to use their factory direct fit harness items if you're replacing wires for any options such as A/C, power window, cruise control harnesses and the like though. Autowire's documentation is very good (available online also), and their customer support was really good too. This is the AAW Factory direct fit catalog: https://smhttp-ssl-87263.nexcesscdn.net/media/forix/catalogue/04_MONTEC_ELCAM_CHEVL.PDF The more versatile kit is here: https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/complete-wiring-kit-1970-72-monte-carlo (That kit used to cost nearly a few hundred dollars less in 2020, seems to go up every time I look). M&H stuff: http://www.wiringharness.com/ http://www.wiringharness.com/pdfs/2023_Chevelle_El_Camino_Monte_Carlo.pdf

You may want to look into American Auto Wire harness, or M&H. They'll be better suited for a Monte Carlo, which does have differences compared to a Chevelle.

Good luck, keep us posted. You could always find another one in the mean time, and hang out here. This is certainly the best place for honest, accurate information. Everyone here will go out of their way to help you with any questions or help you may need.

We're not as lucky as far as some of the Ford and other manufacturers in that regard. I seem to recall something about a fire or something too that destroyed a lot of the Chevrolet records, but my memory could be failing me there. Even with a VIN, there's no guarantee the police will be able to find it. If the car is not currently registered someplace, it won't show up in a search the cops can perform. I ran into this with an old Monte of mine I'm looking for, and a couple of my buddies tried real hard, in multiple databases to find it with no luck. Pretty sure it was sold to a dealer who drove it, who then sold it to another dealer a couple years later who kept it. My guess is they just slap a 'dealer' plate on it when they drive it, so it still doesn't show up in the DMV system.

Not a lot of options with that little information. You can try to do a DMV records search that may turn up all vehicles you've had registered under your name, but that's a long shot, if your state DMV even offers that service. Worth calling them up though. Even then, you'll have a hard time tracking down the vehicle, due to privacy concerns. If you have any police that are friends, they may be able to do a VIN search for you, if by some small chance you do find it, as long as it doesn't jam them up in the process.

Let us know how it works out. That other place appears to be affiliated with GM Wholesale Direct, and is also a Chevy dealer (Modern Chevy, as well as a bunch of other brands). They list a couple different phone numbers, if the Parts Place doesn't work out. https://www.classicmuscle.com/about

SS396 has this one, says 'picture may be different than actual part'., doubtful it's the correct one though. Looks like the same one offered in the entire kit. https://www.ss396.com/monte-carlo/FB-566.html?Category_Code=monte-carlo-clutchzbar This place has one, at least it appears to have the correct GM part number for 70-72 Monte, 3972641, as referenced in the 4-speed conversion website. https://www.classicmuscle.com/p-1968-1977-monte-carlo-frame-bracket-3972641 This old thread addresses it as well: https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/5703-clutch-pedal-interchanges/#comment-67397 Another option, if you're not too concerned about appearances would be a hydraulic conversion. I just put one in my Camaro, so far I'm really pleased with it. Eliminates all the linkages, slop, hard pedal, etc. I hid the small fluid reservoir behind the power brake booster, barely noticeable.

Sounds fantastic Bob, thank you!