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I'm OK with that, lol

It's how he really feels about me....🤣

He has something for me... maybe he'll post a picture of it.

Absolutely Willie! Thank you! I have the big block brace that bolts/supports it to the engine block too. If you need it, you can have it. Also have a trunk seal from Precision & the door jamb 'U' seals I didn't list. I'll bring them as well if you want to look at them (they were real nice, just didn't use them) Lol, funny man 🤣

Resizing the pictures let them load up this time.

Yeah John, he's pretty happy about it. I got it almost all welded up today, just need to add a few more tomorrow. Maybe some corrosion protection & seam sealer tomorrow & then undercoating the day after. If all goes well, he'll have it before the weekend. Got about 8 hours into it so far, a lot more labor than I've gotten sleep in the last few days, lol. Got about 40 minutes of sleep today...

Hey There, I have some parts left over from my Monte build a couple years ago. Most parts are brand new, or have a few miles on them like the starter & brake master cylinder which have about 25 miles on them. I'm figuring this is a good time to list this stuff as I can bring them to Carlisle next week to save you on shipping costs. Naturally, if someone isn't going there & wants them shipped, that can be done for the price of the shipping. They're not listed on ebay or Craiglist yet, figured I'd try here first. The part, current online price and asking prices, are as follows. The Right Stuff Power Brake Booster - RPB 1001. Has the 'Delco Moraine' Stamp. Brand new. Current online price is $188, asking price $140 - SOLD NAPA disc/drum Master Cylinder - M2072, New, used approx 20 miles (got 4 wheel disc setup instead) . Current price $40, asking $25. - SOLD BMR 2" Rear Lowering Springs SP015RB - These were on the car when I got it. Current prices $99.95, asking $50 NAPA Hi-Torque Starter 246-4795. New Re-man, used about 20 miles, opted for a GM mini-starter instead. Current price 60, asking $35 - SOLD Summit disc/drum distribution valve SUM-760185 - NEW. Current price $52, asking 30. (There's also a 'Right Stuff' brand one with about 20 miles on it -asking $25.) Metro Molded Door Seal Set. LM-12A. Current prices $103, asking $75 - SOLD Metro Molded Roofrail seal - RR 5003, Opened but not used. Currently $86.99, asking $60 - SOLD Trim Parts Lower Steering Column plate 4576. New. Currently $31.22, asking $25

If you're talking about the lamp in the very back of the console, it's a 212-1 according to the owner's manual. Rated at 6 candle power. Looks like the dome light, but that one is 211-1, rated at 12 CP. It's possible you may have put a dome rated lamp in there before and melted the plastic lens. Any auto parts store or online source should have what you're looking for. (A quick search shows 212-2 available, looks like the same specs)

Looks like it's already been flipped, lol. (yeah, I know....too easy). Maybe if it was a lot less than $10K, even then, more work than I would care to do.

Eyesore....what do you mean by that...

That's a plausible reason for the damage. The owner lives in central Maine though, not exactly tornado alley, but not out of the question I suppose.

The work you do every day will be more than enough to get you to the right place in the end 😉.

The other side looks pretty intact. They don't even make a replacement part for that side unless you go to the dealer. One place on Amazon did, but I was leery about it, at least this one came from Dorman. Still needed some hammer & dolly work, but for the most part it'll work OK. All the research I did points to Ford accepting NO responsibility at all. Worse yet, the repair part covers model years 2002-2012 I think. That's a long time to screw people. Nobody else in town apparently wanted the job. His regular mechanic and a few collision shops turned him away. I actually spoke to his shop, it was pretty clear they just didn't want to get involved. I'm not that nice, he's still paying parts and labor 💰. It should be quite a bit less than the initial estimate though. Like I said above, nobody else wanted the job & he really is a good guy. No way he can afford a new car at this point & it's his wife's car to get around town. Every few years I sort of come out of retirement from that kind of work to help someone out who really needs it. That being said, this means your window of opportunity may be a few years off now .

Got a little side tracked.... Someone we go to the cruise nights with recently had a shop turn his car away for a repair. He's older and lives off a social security check only and can't afford to junk the car & get a new one. Apparently it's a common failure with Ford Escapes, the rear wheelhouse/shock tower rots away and the shock just flops in the breeze. I got it at least cut out & roughed in before coming back into work tonight. 4 more working nights 'til retirement. Good thing he brought it now, I'll be in the sheetmetal shop tonight making some parts, lol. Maybe I'll get a few good karma points for doing this sh*t job...

I've used this stuff in the past, but mostly when using all new parts. Supposed to help with the break-in/burnishing of the pads & shoes. NAPA used to have big cans of it, but last time I looked all I could find was smaller ones. May be worth a try, short of doing what Steve suggested.

They won't insure mine for the appraised value, I had to go thru Grundy. We'll talk at Carlisle, remind me though.

Looks good, except for that reflection in the window...

I've been using Brad-Penn synthetic blend oil in my Camaro & Monte. I think it's supposed to be the old Kendall GT1 racing oil that was dark green in color. Made for older cars with solid lifters, etc. The Z has a solid roller & the Monte has the LS6 solid flat tappet cam, both have worked well so far with this oil. I used to use valvoline racing oil many years ago, but then they reduced the additives and I got nervous with the solid lifters, so I found this stuff. Not supposed to use it in vehicles with catalytic converters due to the high levels of wear additives. I've been getting it by the case on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009I9C4ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://penngrade1.com/products/high-performance-oils/penngrade-1-partial-synthetic-high-performance-oil-sae-15w-40/ https://penngrade1.com/wp-content/uploads/PennGrade-1®-Partial-SyntheticMultiGrade-High-Performance-Oils-2019.pdf The price jumped $20 since I bought a case last October.

It was always buried under the fender, that's why I never painted it before. I don't like things out in the open, and go thru great lengths to hide anything I can when building the cars. Things like MSD modules, ECM's, stereo equipment, Dakota Digital modules, canisters like this, electric vacuum pumps, alarm modules, remote power lock modules, etc., all get hidden whenever possible. If I have to modify or make a wiring harness, mounting brackets, or plumbing to get it hidden, so be it.

Go a little deeper in the book and look for pages 1A2J-sheet 6, 1A2H -sheet 1, 1A2L - sheets 1 &2. Those show it a little better.

Do you have a factory assembly manual? Section 1 shows heater & A/C hose routing. I have a link to a manual here somewhere. The file is too big to just drop as an attachment. EDIT: Here is a link to a 72 Assembly manual. https://1drv.ms/b/s!Akx6H-ABrxUbzEIfJuE5p4QP_VgW?e=ngJyvs

Nah, too far. The vacuum pump alone should supply it just fine. I did manage to push the yellow canister up even further on the wheel well last night though. It 'should' be ok according to my measurements, but I was also the kid who put the square peg in the round hole in kindergarten too . (bigger hammer made it fit)

This car is also a Rally Sport, so there's the factory canister in that spot for the headlight doors. Passenger side has the Nova style coolant over flow bottle. I tried on top of the wheel well too, no luck there either.

Like a vibrating chair, lol. Might just sit there parked, stepping on the brake pedal all day 🤩. "Sorry officer, I must have left my pants at home"....

You're right about that, the wheelwell would have to be removed to get to it on this car. No other good place to put it really. Same spot on the monte, except I mounted it on the diagonal metal fender brace rod on that car. Still not easy to get to, but can be done from the bottom if needed.