jft69z

Now the other one jumped in as well. It's real windy out and they're sticking to me like glue. Starting to wonder if they know something I don't right now....

Got the main harness in the dash, wired up the rear harness too. Trying to get the wires to the Dakota Digital module wired up but the dog has other plans apparently.... The ECM, D/D module & the D/D EFI interface are mounted to the HVAC box, tucked up nice & safe.

Jeff, I don't think they sit any higher than stock. I do have the 4-way power seat though, but from all appearances it seems to be the same height as stock. The main differences I could see are the side bolsters on the bottom and back. Everything was replaced as far as foam, seat covers, etc. but the existing frame, springs and hard parts were re-used. They are pretty comfortable, but I haven't taken any long trips with the car.

That's just.......awful.

I've done the same for my older GM cars.

You're welcome. They have just about any fastener you'll need to put your car back together. The silver ones that Tom posted are correct for the grill mounting, along the top as soon as you open the hood. You specified black only in your original post, which led me to believe maybe you had a blacked out grill, or something like that.

Any pictures of it installed?

Look at AMK products. They have all sorts of factory hardware, also available in master kits if you're restoring large parts of the car. They have .pdf and online catalogs on their site. Look in the bulk to start, I-kits and Master. https://www.amkproducts.com/ https://www.amkproducts.com/bulk-fasteners-listing/?codeforlookup=7314

I have a brand new booster & a new master with about 10 miles on it if you decide that's the way you want to go. Booster is a 'Right Stuff' brand with the 'Delco Morraine' stamp & the master is from NAPA. I crossed over to 4 wheel discs shortly after building my 72 & this stuff wasn't needed after that.

When I had issues with the 3 AMD rear bumpers, all the people at Summit couldn't have been more helpful. Couple of other issues along the way, some of them my fault when ordering, and again, they always took care of any problems immediately and usually with no added shipping charges, etc.

Sort of defeats the purpose of a brake hone then, lol. That being said, new is the way to go unless you're looking for 100% originality. In that case, a stainless sleeve would probably be my choice.

Damn, that sucks. Slow & steady then...

Maybe get some of the real fine grit discs and use the DA for the majority of the large flat areas?

More like scream into the pillow....

Been on a long stretch of work again, then working in the shop after/before work. Some 20 hour days lately... Not much time for chips or movies... But....I do manage to squeeze a few minutes in the tub to wind down a bit 🙂

There may be 'bananas' involved, but probably not the kind you want...

LOL, that made me laugh.

Thanks Willie, lol! The clock will end up on a wall somewhere around here, not high on the list of things to do right now, 😁

Glen could arrest Willie at the Carlisle meet, for having John's stolen car, keeping it all in the forum family!

Oh boy....... This could get interesting real fast...

You could do it, no problem. Just takes time and planning to figure out how to hook up all the different modules and electronics to play nice together, and not burn anything up in the process. There's at least 3 or 4 more harnesses that aren't in the picture that need to be made up and run. When you get those brakes hot, it does smell like clutch burning, lol

Finally got a little motivation and started to wire it up. Plenty more to go, but at least The main harness is modified enough to suit my needs, taped up & bolted to the firewall. The EFI power harness is run to the trunk where the battery is located, and just need to keep building from there. On a side track, I made what is probably the most expensive wall clock ever 😁. When I got the ZR1 corvette, most of them had a problem with a front end shimmy around 69-74 mph. After all sorts of troubleshooting it turns out it was the Brembo carbon ceramic brake rotors in most cases. My GM dealer covered them under warranty & let me do it at my shop, but they naturally wanted the parts back. Long story short, the bad rotors sat at the dealership for years waiting for GM to reimburse them, however it never happened. I kept asking for them to make a clock, but the parts manager kept saying NO, lol. Well, last week I was there visiting and he pulls me aside.... The list price of the rotors were something like $2300 each at the time.... price of a clock from Amazon $11.95. I still have to do the other rotor, but no big hurry. *** No Carbon Ceramic rotors were harmed making this clock*** 😆

Not really. The 37 degree flare is used with the AN type of fittings. Used that stuff when I was in the USAF, and it's the same fitting used with braided steel lines such as Russel, Earls, plus a bunch of other vendors nowadays. I ran AN fittings for the EFI on my Monte, Z/28, plus numerous other things over the years. Unless they're in perfect shape, it'll be more work to re-use that spring shield than just getting new ones. Pretty cheap, available from Summit, Amazon, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Brake-Protector-Gravel-Spring/dp/B01IRQXDZC?th=1

Yep, quality tools are key. I have the same Mastercool set, plus picked up the 37 degree dies as well. SUR&R makes a real nice flaring tool as well that clamps in a vice, even easier than the Mastercool tool, I got the 37 degree dies for that one too. I'm at work, this is an internet pic of the SUR&R tool:

I've made lines out of stainless, steel, copper, copper-nickel, monel, etc. All sizes, single flare, double flare, 37 degree, 45 degree, etc., never had problems. Don't let what you read scare you, who knows what that person did wrong, or what type of experience/equipment they had. Just like some of the reviews you see on amazon, home depot, etc....some people don't have a clue what they're doing, then post negative reviews about the product/tool. If you decide to do it yourself, you should order the stainless spring coil to slip over the tubing, makes it look OEM and offers some protection as well.