monte70car

I don't have to worry about the HP level on this motor. 427 tall deck (stock form with standard deck intake) don't have high HP levels but they have lots of torque which is one thing the old system ask for is a torque value vs a CI value. If I do make a drive train change it will probably be to a 700r4 or even a 200r4. Currently have a 350 with a shift kit, and 2200 stall behind the 427, which then goes to a Ford 9" with 3.90 gears and a very big tire (33x22x15).

I'm stuck at do I go with the Terminator EFI basic kit ($1,800) or the Sniper half the cost but gives the same option as the Terminator system. They both offer the ability to control elec fans which the current system doesn't nor control timing. With the current system I already have in place an EFI pump and a return style regulator, which will come in handy with the Terminator system plus I like the fuel line layout on the Terminator vs the Sniper where the feed and return comes off the back of the system. I've been comparing both systems plus the MSD and even looked at the Quick fuel system but the Holley's keep bring me option that the others don't have (mainly the elec fan control).

Paul whats your take on the Holley Terminator system? Thinking of forgoing the current system as all the support for it has gone to the waste side.

Paul I brought this one PowerInjection3 it was made by Professional Products. About a year later MSD came out with their self learning system.

I wish I did a little more research before I brought the one I did years ago . It looks like that group (even their forum page) closed up. Hopefully next year the other Monte will be started and can get the bug on that EFI dial in other wise its back to a 750 Holley unless the funds is there for one of the other system.

As Dave stated Summit or even JEGS before OPGI. I have an 100amp alt on my 70, 140amp on a 70 El Camino and I believe another 100amp on a 72 Monte. The 70 Monte has probably the most elec items in it with the radio setup, elec fans, power windows and locks and remote entry. Although the other two aren't far behind.

Bryan if you want to go old school I have a Mallory dual point dist that I couldn't use due to my motor choice.

On my factory bucket seat car the rear track bolts down into a floor brace.

I have a Bowtie Overdrive 700r4 their stage 2 trans. As Sam pointed out get their linkage kit base on what carb you are running. With the rear gear I have (2.73) I'm not getting the most out of the trans with its 2200 stall. I have the option to lock up the stall via toggle switch or let it lock up when it needs to and disengaged when applying the brake. Car runs good with the big block and the700r4 and the 2.73 but a different gear could make it better. The last time it was on the high way was three years ago when we were at Carlisle for the Eastern meet, we were running 65 mph and turning probably 1,950 RPM's on 81 with a 26" tall tire.

Here are a few pictures of the car getting switched over to complete non-air. Here is a picture of the padding marking what needs to be cut Outside back in place and the outlets for the heater core in place

It's a pain in the butt, but it does look better if the a/c compressor has been removed. I brought a complete non-a/c system along with the firewall padding. You will have to weld up the old heater core location and cut a new heater core opening. By making this change you lose the air flow coming from the dash vent.

I have a picture of the throttle cable coming out which might help You might have to zoom in but the throttle cable goes to the top round hole and then the kick down harness goes out the other hole.

The part isn't adjustable and the switch can't be moved to be engage differently. Most of the aftermarket vendors carry the switch and bracket.

Here is what the bracket looks like. If you have a flat plate on the gas pedal you'll remove that and that bracket bolts on in its place.

I know the 255/50/16 I had on the front of my didn't rub with the 4" backspacing. I'm with Bill I don't recall seeing a 275/60 in a 16" wheel maybe a 15" wheel.

Kevin you can pick up the shroud clips at any of the aftermarket parts vendors, I believe I picked mine up at ss396.com. The u-joints will move the drive shaft back to the center.

Your not to far off on the size. I ran 16x8 with 4.5" back spacing and 255/50 with no issue. On the front I went with 16x7 4" backspacing and stayed with the 255/50. A 255/50 is a 26" tall tire that is 10" wide. I moved back down to 15" wheels so I could run the Mickey Thompson sportsman pro tires.

I have the regular tub upper arms.

I have a June 2001 which built a 396 that put out 500HP and up to 575HP. Summit has some alum big block heads in their saving center https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-50459/overview/make/chevrolet which might be a good head.

Hi Jim yes the 70 is the brown one, its overall height is an 1" lower then stock (still has 1970 body mounts on it). I like the ride it gives, it rides smooth and if there is a rattle you don't notice it due to the exhaust. Here is a good video of the brown one getting a test drive before an Eastern meet https://youtu.be/bZCmUbz6k8w you can hear the brake rod rubbing on the fire wall and the rear tires picking up rocks, towards the end you'll hear a little rattle but that was due to a lose a-arm shaft nut. And here is another video while at an Eastern meet heading back to the hotel https://youtu.be/sYSB2NBtXH8 this time you hear most wind blowing through the car. By going to the coil overs you lose the metal on metal noise that Glen and Cory talk about as the coils sit on two alum plates one that as a trust washer. As I said earlier the 72 bottom in the picture it has Viking coil overs on the front install tubular front control arms and 2" drop spindles. I have the shock body set for cruise with a 450lbs spring to support the weight of a 427 tall deck big block. When I originally put them in I had the ride height where the 26x8 front tires would hit the inner fenders when trying the wheel. So I raised the height to get the low profile jack enough room to get it under the car. And on the rear is just a regular pair of coil overs with 500lbs springs and the only way to low it is to move the shocks down or up on the brackets on the rear end.

If you plan on straighten some curves sway bars will help in the front and rear. If the lower control arms for the rear is not boxed then upgrading them to box or even the tub style arms will help keep the rear end pin to the road. I agree with Glen on the Viking coil overs went that way on my 72 in the front with tubular upper and lower controls. With the coil overs and a low HP big block I can drop the front end low enough that a low profile floor jack will not roll under the car as it hits the 1 3/8" front sway bar and then hits the front cross member. My 70 is more of a cruiser. It has lowering springs front and back with KYB gas shocks. The sway bars on it is stock size. I redid the rear end control arms by getting a kit from UMI and added their rear shock brace for a little more support to the frame. The front control arms are stock with polyurethane bushing. It rides and handles really good with its setup. Both cars have front and rear disc.

We have a small block that started leaking after changing the timing chain to gear drive and a TPI system. Used a stock pan and timing chain cover and the correct gasket and 10 minutes after it warmed up it would leak. We went and replaced the oil pan thinking that was problem still leaked. We changed the seal in the timing chain cover thinking it might have tore still leaked. Got a sleeve for the blancer thinking maybe a grove and it still leaked. We then though maybe its to much PSI from the TPI system pulled that off and stuck a regular intake and carb back on it and it still leaks once it warms up. One thing I've read there is a bolt hole on the front side of the block that goes into a oil passage and if that bolt is missing the oil could be coming from there. Just a though.

I use a power probe to run the motors. I hook one end up to a battery and then ground the power probe to the metal work or area I'm working on and touch the end that the switch goes in.

Mike I used a wiring kit from Summit which controls two fans or if you have a elec fan that is dual speed it will control each speed.. It comes a complete kit with two relay's 2 circuit breakers and a 185° sending unit.

The reason I knew it was a radiator from Ausley's is I have the same type in my 72. the elec fans came from speedway motors for about $200 mounted in the shroud already.