Mike 57

Definitely the wrong rings. What brand of ring package?

Sounds like a fun build. I like my AFR 325s. What are you doing to the chassis to support your quest for 10s

Sounds like valve train to me. I am hearing popping all the time. The valves may be adjusted too tight or an exhaust lobe is going.

Max should be 7 pounds, are you sure of the gauge? 12 lbs should be pushing the needles off the seats and flooding it. Lean conditions usually cause popping through the carb. other things could case the popping. I would double check for other issues. What do your plugs look like?

It has splayed main caps. If it is .030 over it is probably done. 040 is about max on a factory block not a lot of room for clean up. Two bolt blocks are actually stronger than the factory 4 bolt blocks in the main web area. splayed caps make them better. The last 400 I did, adding the three splayed center main caps, then line bore, squaring the deck, then boring, was pretty high dollar. I probably could have picked up an aftermarket block for a little more.

Mine is 3900 with me in it. All steel full interior, gobs of motor to move it!

It is good to drive.

Guides are worn

Here are some thoughts off the top of my head. First I would tighten the lash. Aluminum heads grow when they get hot. I run a solid roller my cold lash is 6 to 7 thousandths tighter than my hot running lash. If you are running standard hydraulic rollers you are not anywhere close to being centered in the hydraulic chamber. 1/2 a turn on a 7/16th fine thread stud is .025 of an inch. Get the engine warm your lash is now around .019 to .018. lifters and oil are warm, big block valve train geometry, I think I would tighten the lash. I think what Sam was getting at on the ignition thoughts was this. If the ignition is not up to par, voltage low to the coil usually retards timing heats the exhaust valve and loads the lifter. Advanced timing rattles the valves. Retarded timing see above. Any way you look at it you are beating up the rollers I would tighten the lash. I wish I was closer to you I think I could cure it! I feel your frustration if you want to talk about it give me a call. 724 714 1974

Don't have a picture, crank outside pulley, Alternator, Water pump Crank, inner pulleys one belt power steering, second belt power steering and A/C

I guess the cost would be determined by the condition of the 454 you found. If you do some research Eagle has a 489/496 rotating assembly from Jegs at around 1400. If you figure crank work, rod resize, pistons, rings, and bearings it is a pretty good deal. With modern lubes I would go with a hydraulic roller. There are lots of scenarios for you build, I am sure lots of people will chime in.

Bad cap or stuck thermostat. Did you put a small hole in the thermostat to make sure that the air would bleed out of the block? If there was an air bubble around the thermostat it would not open. Must have been a heck of a noise!

I would stick a gauge on it just to be sure. A stock small block with a stock pump is about 40lbs. If that is a stock engine without a rebuild for modern clearances 5-30 might be light

427s have a 4.25 inch bore, 402s are 4.125. Boring a 402 .125 would make some thin cylinder walls. You could get a 454 block and put your crank in it with new pistons, but at that point why not go 454? The extra .250 inch stroke would help torque. There are some stroker pistons out there, a 454 crank in your 402 would get you 433 with a .030 over bore. Seems like lots of cost when there are still 454s to be found.

Good job Jason! Your work is paying off.

Congraadulations!

Yep it is possible, are you sure it is the main seal?

I got about two years out of that set. Season is not over, it will be ready next week

Today I found the limits of a 12 bolt 4.10 ring gear. A 3900 pound car and a 1.29 60 foot is is the limit for mine.

I have done a few and never had to clearance a 454 block. I did have to notch a early 427 block. Forged pistons knock when cold, but they should quiet down when the get warmed up and expand. A couple of questions on the build: What piston to wall clearance are you running? What are the gaps on the piston rings? Are the support rails for the oil rings installed with the dimples in the piston pin gap?