Mike 57

Looks like the posi clutches are shot. I would drop the cross shaft and check the play on the shaft and spyder gears

Get another Edelbrock

If you can find a good core complete engine that will clean up at .030 over for $300, that would be a start for a street engine. A 383 would be a nice engine also

Finding a 400 that is not worn is a issue .040 is max over bore in my opinion. Last 2 400 blocks I did were 509s one was a 406 the other a 434. I had the machine shop install 4 bolt billet main caps with angled outer bolts, line hone, and square deck the block. it is a pretty big investment that would go a long way to a sportsman block with a lot of nice features. What are your goals does the stock block make sense?

They come in an assortment. Summit has them linky Jegs has them linky 2 And I imagine if you checked with local parts stores they might have them Dorman Motormite 90093

Jared bronze distributor gears are for billet steel roller cams only. They are a maintenance Item and need to be checked and replaced regularly. A steel distributor cam gear will wear the billet cam gear.

Dave, I saw no wear on mine, basically same pump for a big block.

Most people call it a bad red light

Bob, I always wondered how many pounds of wire I used and how much I ground off!

.00 lights are good to see but it was almost red! It was actually .002

If you have the center bypass hose between the water pump and the intake water crossover, you can plug the heater hoses off. You don't even need that one if you drill a few holes in your thermostat so water will pass through and you will not get an air pocket.

Gen 6 bowtie,

Actually that is not too bad of a price for a header that fits. Stainless, thick flanges, merge collector, TIG welded, I may have to check into them more. There might be a set in my future.

Use the feeler gauge, make sure it is oil free.

Lets see, where did I put that dwell meter?

Throttle Valve Cable Adapter, TV Corrector. The most important part of the whole deal is to get the pressures correct on the trans.

Listen to Dave, I wear the same stuff. Drive shaft loop is real important. The majority of failures come at speed not launch, when the shaft reaches its critical rotational speed. Roll bar at 11.50!

Get rid of the street tires! Drag radials will really help, regular slicks would help more. Soften the front, get some 90/10 shocks they are fairly inexpensive. Loosen the control arm bolts so the bushings pivot instead of reacting on the rubber. Disconnect the front sway bar at the track. You are going to have to play with the launch, you will not be able to tell anything until you get a sticky tire. With the tire you have I probably would not spray until it starts to recover from the 1-2 shift. I know I seem to be stressing tire a lot, But that is the next step before any real suspension tuning. I leave off of a trans brake. I am on the two step at 3400 when I leave the converter spikes to 5500 and I shift at 7000. That is on a 28/10.5 MT slick

Keep in mind that a tall ball joint in the lower arm lowers the front about a inch. You will also have to notch the disc brake shield for clearance.

I have C clip eliminators from Strange. Never leaked a drop and the rear does get some abuse. These units use a tapered bearing and good seals and are made for all styles of driving. Earlier eliminators used a roller bearing and were basically drag race only and were not designed for much side loading and the seal was built into the bearing. That is probably where the horror stories came from. Using them for what they were not designed for.

I agree it sounds like a radiator issue. If it is building heat going down the road under cruise conditions that is usually an indication. I had one in a pickup, the faster I went the hotter it got. I took it to a radiator shop, they took the tanks off and confirmed that the lower tubes were plugged. They ran a rod through the tubes to clean them out. They used to call it rodding a radiator. Some shops no longer do it because technology has changed. Most will still recore a radiator so you have the original tanks if keeping the original look is a concern. Some older radiators are too fragile for rodding.

I would like to go but I am going to Good Guys Columbus

Nice Dave! Not as photogenic but deadly consistent 60s

When you choose a pan there should be a list of suggested pickups for the chosen pan. Look at he link Dave provided, there is a suggested parts tab that lists the pickups. Nice pan by the way, it would be an excellent way to go.

Like Sam said if the shaft of the lock bolt was broken you should not be able to turn it at all. You should be able to compare the bolt by putting it up by the case and see if it looks like it goes past the pin. I wonder if the gears galled and ridged the shaft at one time.