overdrive

I'm curious what they would charge for a grille. Dan

That's the one. I remember you've used them, too. Dan

I took my power window and lock switches apart today and took them to a local plating shop. The guy is being pretty fair I think with his prices. He quoted me $150 for the 4 power window switch bezels and 2 power lock bezels. I priced repro switches and the lock sw. are $105 each, and the win. sw. are $45 ea. for the singles and $75 for the 4 gang sw. for the drvr door. He said their business is still pretty slow and he'd give me a good price. They've done work for me in the past and do great work. I told him I'd rather pay him and use original parts than buy new, since so many new parts are made overseas. I took them 4 bumper guards, $50 ea., 2 door handles and buttons, $30 ea., and the bezel for the remote control mirror, $20, 3 weeks ago. They should have them done in 2-3 weeks. If anyone is interested, I can put you in touch with them. I don't know if they have a tank big enough for bumpers or not. They didn't use to, but they've moved to a new building in the last few yrs. Dan

I agree. That's beautiful work, Jose! Dan

The 70 inner bracket should be the same and the outer bracket has a recessed area to clear the turn signal housing. I haven't had any experience with a 72, so I don't know if the 72 outer bracket still had the 70 t.s. recess or not. We restored my son's 71, but I don't remember if the recess was on his brackets. The only difference in the bumper for the 3 yrs. is the t.s. hole. The 70 will work fine on your 72. It just has the recess that you don't need. Dan

Quote: My rear bumper is already mounted so i don't think they have to do with the rear. You either have 2 spare rear brackets or someone mounted the bumper with only the main brackets. The 2 at the top of your pic are to give the ends of the rear bumper some strength and support. The bumper will mount on the car without them. The flat end of the brackets (at the top of the pic) bolts to the outer most hole in the bumper. Dan

Our 2 cars were both unrestored when we got them and neither had that sticker. I read somewhere that our cars didn't come with them. Maybe they were factory in later years. Dan

Measure how thick the water pump is at that hole. Add 1" for the length, if there are no other brackets to go thru. The diameter of the bolt is 3/8" and 16 threads per inch. Example: If the pump measures 2 1/2" thick, buy a 3 1/2 X 3/8-16, grade 5 bolt or higher at the hardware store. Here's a link for hardness. Don't get a soft China made bolt. Use a lock washer on the bolt and use pipe thread sealer on any threads that go into a hole that has no bottom and could leak coolant. Dan

Quote: The smaller brackets are used to attach/reinforce the front fender extensions to the core support, and I believe they were only used on the '70. Quote: Yep the ones on the lower left are for 70. They help hold the front fender extensions in place. I took one of mine off and you guys are right. I thought they were shorter. They bolt to the top of the front fender extensions with one bolt and then that assembly bolts to the core support, as was already posted. The one that you have in the bottom left of your pic is for the driver side. I also checked the rear bumper brackets that I have for a '70 and they match the 2 top brackets in the picture. They are for the outer ends of the rear bumper on a '70. '71 and '72 are different, at least the ones I have are. The 2 in the lower right of the pic are not for the front or rear bumpers of our cars. Both bumpers use brackets that have 90 degree bends for the bumper bolts to go through. First gen Monte front brackets have 2 holes for the frame bolts that are in line with each other. Dan

I don't think the bottom 4 are for a 1st gen Monte. If the top 2 are, they are the outer end brackets for the rear bumper, but they don't look quite like I remember them. I can check a spare set of rear brackets that I have tomorrow. Dan

Quote: My WOT upshifts can't be delayed by having gear selector in Low or 2nd. This is the way a TH400 works unless it has been modified (I think). I rebuilt mine and added a shift improver kit. It stays in low or 2nd until I upshift. I don't remember what rpm it shifts from 1-2 at when in drive, but it's low. I think maybe around 4500. I like shifting it. Have you done the shifter mod. to keep from going from 1st to 3rd with manual shifts? It works great. Dan

Quote: But would an car with AT in the console have PRND21 in the speedo? No. Auto w/console only has selector in the console. Make sure there's no provision for a column shift lever. See the bottom 2 shifter humps on this page for Chevelles and Montes. The tunnel has no hump, just a hole for the cable on a auto/floor shift Monte. The clutch linkage is a little different from a Chevelle for a Monte. It's been many years since I had my 402 4 spd. Someone here can give you the details on that. Dan

Are you just needing to know what parts to buy? You'll need gaskets for the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and heads. Inspect the old gaskets for bad spots/leak points. Also, check the heads for cracks. Is the anti-freeze dripping from the front pan seal or the rear. You need to make sure the fluid was coming from inside the motor before you buy gaskets and tear into it. If an external hose is leaking, it's possible the fluid was being blown to the rear of the block and oil pan and dripping from the seal area. Unless you have an oil leak there, it won't leak any anti-freeze that gets in the pan. Check the oil level. If it's too high, drain and inspect the oil for anti-freeze. If it's in the pan, it'll come out as soon as the plug is removed. The oil will float on top of any water or anti-freeze. Good luck and let us know what you find. Dan

Where did you go, James? Did you figure out the problem? Dan

That looks great, Bob. Yes, it takes much longer to get a fender to that point than you think it will. I'm doing some body work on my qtrs and the drvr door of the SS. Those are the last panels on it that I need to work on. Dan

I can add that I found this post in the archives by montefrazer: Quote: The lock cylinder has to come out the front of the glove box door. Open the glove box door and push the latch to the closed position. Lock the lock with the key. In front of the base of the lock on the inside of the door, you will see a small half round cut out in the plastic. Ahead of this in the base of the lock will be a square hole. Inside this hole is a spring loaded tab. You need to push this tab in as you carefully pry the lock out the front of the door. It will move a bit and another tab will show up. There are 5 tabs in all. You need to push and pry each one. When the lock is out of the glove box door, the part left on the outside of the door unscrews from the housing left on the inside of the door. It takes longer to explain than to do. ------------------ Steve I took mine apart to get some pics. Steve's instructions are great, but I only had to push down on the first tab, the one on the right in the pics. The key held the others down so they cleared as the cylinder was removed. This pic shows how far the tab on the lock cylinder goes into the latch and where to look for it so you can push it down with a small, straight screwdriver. Dan

HI James. Here is a great site to help ID the trans. There are others. Just Google Muncie identification. Does the car make the noise and buck when you are slowing down with the clutch pedal down or up? Dan

Look closely at the motor mounts and see if they are made correctly. I had new ones from O'Reillys that were junk. The metal pieces weren't centered in the mold before the rubber was injected and the mounts had the motor and trans out of alignment with the frame. Dan

Sam, don't you have your build sheet on your computer. I do. If it's the sheet I think it is, you have the 938, 5k redline.

Quote: lol it probably help me get a job laugh Yes, it would. That's a well known fact. My hair was long when I was in school, but unfair or not, a haircut improved everyone's attitude towards me. Dan

Great job Davey and Red! Thanks for the pics and videos! Dan

Check the shaft of the driven gear for wear. It's the plastic part that the square end on the cable fits into. Mine was worn and the new o-ring wasn't enough to seal it. I bought a new gear. They're cheap. The Parts Place has them: Automatic Transmission & Related Parts - SPEEDOMETER GEARS - AUTOMATIC Product Name Price AT6322Z (1970 - 1981 Monte Carlo) LIGHT GREEN AUTOMATIC SPEEDOMETER GEAR (34 TOOTH) $15.00 AT6323Z (1970 - 1981 Monte Carlo) ORANGE AUTOMATIC SPEEDOMETER GEAR (35 TOOTH) $15.00 AT6324Z (1970 - 1981 Monte Carlo) WHITE AUTOMATIC SPEEDOMETER GEAR (36 TOOTH) $15.00 AT6325Z (1970 - 1981 Monte Carlo) RED AUTOMATIC SPEEDOMETER GEAR (37 TOOTH) $15.00 AT6326Z (1970 - 1981 Monte Carlo) BLUE AUTOMATIC SPEEDOMETER GEAR (38 TOOTH) $15.00 AT6327Z (1970 - 1981 Monte Carlo) BROWN AUTOMATIC SPEEDOMETER GEAR (39 TOOTH) $15.00 AT6328Z (1970 - 1981 Monte Carlo) BLACK AUTOMATIC SPEEDOMETER GEAR (40 TOOTH) $15.00 AT6329Z (1970 - 1981 Monte Carlo) YELLOW AUTOMATIC SPEEDOMETER GEAR (41 TOOTH) $15.00 AT6330Z (1970 - 1981 Monte Carlo) GREEN AUTOMATIC SPEEDOMETER GEAR (42 TOOTH) $15.00 AT6331Z (1970 - 1981 Monte Carlo) PURPLE AUTOMATIC SPEEDOMETER GEAR (43 TOOTH) $15.00 AT6332Z (1970 - 1981 Monte Carlo) GRAY AUTOMATIC SPEEDOMETER GEAR (44 TOOTH) $15.00 AT6333Z (1970 - 1981 Monte Carlo) LIGHT BLUE AUTOMATIC SPEEDOMETER GEAR (45 TOOTH) $15.00 Dan

Poly will be great for your needs. Dan

You're welcome. I think the one on our page is correct for earlier Chevys. Dan

Mark, I remember now that I had this date code problem on my tag. The page that I referred you to is not totally correct. This should help. Our tech page needs changed. The build date code is not at the top of the tag, it's at the bottom, left. Sam's is 01A, which means the first month and the A is first week of the month. The day of the week isn't indicated on the cowl tag or the door tag, but I think it's on the build sheet. You may want to check your bottom line again. 05 is May but you show 8 where there should be a letter for the week. Could it be a B instead? As for the rest of the bottom line, that info will be on the build sheet in the top right corner. I think I found the meaning of it a couple years ago, but I've forgotten. Dan