amsterdam84

I am pretty sure that compression is normally recorded in PSI so there should not be any conversion unless its some sort of dynamic compression ratio but I doubt anything would change. kPa are kilopascals. Normal atmospheric pressure is 14.7psi, or 101.3 kPa or 1 Bar(14.5psi techically). It is all the same thing just using a different unit. Perhaps you have some very tight rings that seal very well. Would probably give you a high compression ratio in total. From Wiki b = cylinder bore (diameter) s = piston stroke length Vc = clearance volume. It is the volume of the combustion chamber (including head gasket). This is the minimum volume of the space at the end of the compression stroke, i.e. when the piston reaches top dead center (TDC). Because of the complex shape of this space, it is usually measured directly rather than calculated.

There should be a wire connecting the starter and solenoid. Sounds like your starter is working but not engaging. Video would help.

Is that a Holy Grail quote? Lol

Ive done some research and apparently you can use a box from a 93 to 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Exactly the same and you even can use the same replacement rag joint from the Chevy Trucks. I like that a bit better as the late 80's SS Monte ones are getting hard to find and using a box of a 97 beats an 87 as far as miles on the road. Should be less slop if there is any. Heres the link for my jeep info. Jeep Box Also found that B body GM cars have a good box as well especially the 88 to 90 years. Here is a good explanation for that from Carcraft. I will definately be looking for this box. Not many U-pull places around canada so I may have to pay more but Im sure you guys still have them. Online the cheapest I've found is $75. You would still need the rag joint and might have to drill out a spot not to mention replacement lines as these will be metric oring style.

Idle on a sbc 350 in gear on an auto is around 650 rpm isn't it? You may have pull back your idle screw.

If your not planning on competitive racing, a dual plane will be be way to go. It will give you more low end torque than a single plane. Single plane is good for top end and if your not planning on spending a lot of time in the upper revs dual is the right choice. That's all I can suggest. Others will be along shortly to give you tips on the other stuff.

I am pretty sure its TDC on cylinder 1 on compression stroke.

I use a mechanical though some might not want to incase the gage inside leaks. Thats what happened with mine when I got it. Gage leaked inside the housing and dripped onto the carpet. Electrical is safer though some say its not as accurate.

I'm pretty sure its not the same sensor. If it has 1 connector on it its the simple dummy light type. It basically is an on/off switch that operates at a single pressure. It does not read a range. You will need one with 2 or 3 connectors I think. It has to be for a gauge. That will read a range. I will try and find one as an example. My apologies for misleading you. I was thinking you had or were going to get a mechanical gauge. An electric sensor will look the same but should have 2 or 3 connectors.

You CAN just replace it but there are other things you can do. I have mine teed off so I have both the warning light and a guage in the car.

Would it be possible to disconnect the light from the back and run test leads from your battery to the terminals on the back of the light. Not sure which is ground but thats one way to be sure its not the wiring.

If its leaking from the sensor, just replace it. Mine leaked when I got my Monte. They are a cheap part.

Any idea on what the price would be?

How much do aluminum heads cost for a BB? More than for a SB?

He rebuilds the motor as well or just the linkages that make sure it parks as well as the washer pump engage/disengage? Too bad shipping from Canada would be rediculous.

I've been doing some research and may be in the market for vortec heads in the future. From what I have read, with a good set of heads and perhaps stroking a 350, you can have between 400 and 550hp and some pretty good torque numbers as well. I have no idea what kind of numbers a done over BB can do but I would think with the weight reduction of the SB you could be a contender. Take this worth a grain of salt though as I have never had the opportunity to work on the inside of my motor. Don't know anyone who does so I haven't been exposed to it. Would love to talk to someone who has though. Interested in building my own in the next year or 10...

So it sounds like the parking problems are directly related to the motor. Anyone know how difficult it is to rebuild one? I would rather do that than replace.

My wipers only work intermittently. They will turn on no problem but will not shut off after a couple minutes of working. Sometimes they will stop in the middle and I have to pull them by hand to get them working. It has been like that since I got the car. Washer system does not work at all. I hear the pump but nothing comes out. Reservoir is indeed full. Just one of those things I've been meaning to get to.

Indeed good advice. I have a NAS (Network Attached Storage) that I use to backup all my files and movies. It is also redundant with multiple drives incase of a disk failure. An external is a good alternative as theyare cheaper and easier to use.

Trust me its a Qjet. Bad wording on my part. I think its the plugs on the bottom of the carb that are leaking. If I was to try and rejet does that not mean I have to tear it down to get at the metering rods and jets?

I had it rebuilt supposedly when I bought it. Just doesn't seem any better than my 2bbl did. Just goes through more fuel. It was off of a 74 corvette as informed from the seller. And I think the fuel bowl leaks as when hot it can be hard to start and when it sits for a day or two will require a lot of turning over to start. My 2bbl would fire up every time without using the pedal.

I have yet to try that with my qjet. Guess I'm missing out. I need to tune the carb anyways. Not happy with the performance. Sluggish off the line and hesitates when you hammer the gas. Where do I get a jet kit for this?

LOL that is a odd cat.

Yeah Fram filters are the worst. Never will I use them again. All the internals are paper that's just glued together.

I thought I read somewhere you can get it out if the counterweights are up on the crank. Might have to turn it over by hand to get it to line up. I could be wrong though....