sredmyer

Well the bell house may be different but the trans itself is numbers matching to my VIN. I will have to take a closer look when I can get it back on the lift.

Yeah, I thought they were 1/4-20 as well but a 1/4-20 bolt is too small in all of the holes in mine. If it were just one of the holes I would think it was just worn out...but all of them? Also, the 1/4-20 bolt is not just loose (like the threads were gone) but entirely too loose.

I know this is an old thread but it looks like the right place for this question. Does anyone know of a source for the correct bolts for the inspection cover on the turbo 400 in an SS454

How does the hood seal (the rubber seal between the hood and the cowl) attach to the cowl?

So I just bought another 70 SS454 which had the rear gears changed to 3:55s. While I like this gear a lot for local cruising (and tire spinning of course) it is not so good on the freeway. That said, I think I will leave it as is at least for now. Can anyone tell me if I can simply change the speedo gear in the transmission to correct the speedometer...it is currently reading about 90 MPH when doing 70 on the freeway.

Where can I find the correct bolts for the body mounts? I don't need the mounts themselves just the bolts.

While this physics lesson is very interesting I seriously doubt it has anything to do with my problem. I seriously doubt the resistance change due to temperature would be significant enough in just a few minutes (less than 15) to go from absolutely nothing when turning the key to starting fine.

Doesn't the test I did of turning on the lights and attempting to start accomplish the voltage drop test you are talking about? The idea is that if the starter/solenoid are getting power there should be a significant dimming of the lights when the ignition switch is turned to the start position. If there is no dimming (which there was not) then there is no voltage drop. Since there was no voltage drop I think it has to be either the ignition switch, NSS or the fusible link you mentioned but it just doesn't makes sense to me that any of those would be affected by the temperature of the car.

Ok, what is NSS

So I had one of my cars out for what is likely the last time this year. After driving some beautiful country roads for about an hour I stopped at a convenience store to get a drink. When I got out of the store and went to start the car and leave, it would not start. I turn the key but nothing happened and by nothing, I mean nothing...no click no nothing. It was like the car was not in park so I shifted into gear then back to Park but still nothing. I turned on the lights and had my wife watch them while I turned the key and they did not dim at all so the starter is obviously not being energized. Sounds like the neutral safety switch but wait... This actually happened once before. The car was hot after some long country road (read slowish) driving and I stopped at a friends house. When I went to show him the car and start it up, same thing, no start. I was planning to visit with my friend so I didn't worry much about it at the moment and figured we could look at it later when I was ready to leave. When I came out some time later to leave the car started right up. I ended up having the same luck this most recent time, after waiting a bit for the car to cool it started right up. So the car acts like the neutral safety switch is bad when it is hot, but give it time to cool down and it starts right up. Can anyone suggest what might be going on? Can the neutral safety switch be going bad in this way...affected by heat?

Just my two cents worth but I have always felt a Monte without a vinyl top looks naked.

Dennis - the new pictures of your cars in your signature look awesome.

Yes, I know. I have a very good friend who lives in Myrtle Beach that I was planning to take to the meet with me so I went there first to pick him up. This friend and I grew up together and he and I owned the same Monte Carlo while in high school...we traded the car back and forth for about four years. Anyway, despite not being geographically close, he and I have remained very close over the years. Over the last couple of years my friend has developed a blood disease and is just generally in bad health. I knew he would enjoy this meet as much as me so I wanted to take him with me. The plan was to drive down to his place Tuesday, hang out with him and his wife for a couple days then drive on down to Hiawassee Thursday. Unfortunately, as I said, I had some trouble with my truck. It was nothing serious but I had to order a part to fix it and I did not get it until Friday afternoon so I was unable to make the second part of the trip.

Sounds like you had a nice turnout. Really sorry that I was not able to be there but I had mechanical failure on my tow vehicle in Myrtle Beach. Hopefully I can make it next year. Congratulations for all of those that won awards

I know (from reading other posts) the radio (AM/FM 8-track) is only held in by the stem nuts and an 'L' bracket on the rear of the radio. So the question is, can the radio be removed and replaced with out removing the dash? If so can someone explain how it would be done. Thanks

I bought this one

I also just purchased one. Just received it the other day and hope to get it put in this weekend. Once it is in I will get some pictures and let everyone know my thoughts on it.

Thank you sir

Does anyone have a link (preferably in spray can) for the correct paint to touch up the dash in a 1970 triple black car. Thanks

Mike - that car in your signature looks very familiar...right down to the front plate

WOW!! That is really looking good. As others have said, I wish I had the skills to do that.

I texted 1970MonteCarloNH and got the picture...attached below.

Just out of curiosity, what difference would you notice with the smaller pipes?

Thanks Dennis. Progress on the building has been painfully slow. I think the guy doing it just over committed himself this summer.

Thanks everyone. The hood light issue turned out to be a blown fuse on both cars. There is actually an inline fuse in the power wire which connects to the horn relay. The trunk light in one car was just disconnected (not attached to the trunk) so it wasn't getting ground. The other car just has a bad bulb in the trunk.