FASTSS454

Originally Posted By: Sam (Bones) I run approx 3400rpm @ 70 w/3.73's and a turbo 400 w/a 28" tire Ditto, I like the take off but hate the high revs at a sustained long run. You didn't mention if you have a 3 or 4 speed trans so that will play into the recommendations you get.

Wow, I hope he gets better soon. Prayers sent for Rob and the family.

Give that man a beer for the correct answer.

A piece of 1/2 water pipe cut to size and painted with header paint will do the trick for the spacer.

There are numerous vendors out there with complete kits available SSBC and CCP both come to mind. Also check over at Team Chevelle, same system as we use. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=254644 http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376970

Low pedal is caused by 2 things, rear brakes not adjusted properly or the linkage between the pedal and master not adjusted properly or incorrect parts. On the booster there is a pin that pushes the master cylinder and some are adjustable. The master cylinders have two styles of pistons in them one has a hole that is deeper than the other, if your using mismatched parts you will experiance to much play before the clearance is taken up.

My experiance with hydro boost is it does indeed feel mushy when stepping on the pedal, I can push the pedal to the floor on most of them I have driven while in park, when moving you can't do that without flying through the windshield. It is just a strange feeling pedal, different from wht you are used too if you have never driven a vehicle with it. The only reason to convert to it is you have a radical cam that makes less than 14 inches of vac. The best mod I did to my braking system as far as pedal feel was a set of braided lines to replace the oem rubber ones.

I have never seen another Monte with the sport mirror on the right side, I would love to add one to mine so if anyone has any info on doing it it would be nice to hear about what would fit.

LOOKS GOOD What size tires are those?

I am waiting on word from the dealership as to the outcome of this bad situation. This is our worst nightmare seeing our beloved Montes on a rollback.

Anything going on with your swap?

Why not do a thread on the rebuild, taking and posting pictures along the way. That way if you run into something or we see something we can help out along the way.

Very nice.

Dan is right, I think it is a failure of the friction and steel discs, valve bodys just don't fail like this. Even if it was a valve body failure you would be stuck in one forward gear unless it fell off the bottom of the transmission. The B&M kit is a good item if you want to rebuild it yourself. Make sure you take lots of pictures as it comes apart so you know how it goes back together, and yes do a complete flush of the lines and cooler. I would spring for a new convertor or have a trans shop open it up and clean it out.

Sure you can http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand...s/?autoview=SKU http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029JLBI/ref=...ASIN=B00029JLBI

I'll bet it isn't a valve body.

To the OP keep the gap at .035 unless you are running HEI then open it up to .040 a MSD is just multiple sparks not higher voltage unless you use a MSD coil to, the voltage is set by the coil windings and the MSD is just the triggering device for the coil. E3 are just a expensive gimmick because we all know that electricity will take the shortest path to ground.

Ah that would explain why you needed the compressor.

Never had to use a spring compressor and I have had at least 3 sets of coils in and out of the car.

This was the post I was referring to. Not this one, sorry if you misunderstood my post. Originally Posted By: allchevy it's called a test

That kinda sucks as I wanted a new chassis to put under mine, like a FatMan or other new chassis.

You don't want it on a battery terminal because that one will be hot all the time. You need to find a terminal that is hot while cranking and hot when the key is in the run position and dead when the key is turned off. If anyone else waqnts to hook up a HEI you can use the factory coil positive wire but you need to remove the resistor wire from the circuit and supply 12 volts.

The three prong limiter? God that brings me back to the 70's when I would have 4-5 cars with gauges on em at a time. I worked for one of the very few gas stations that did A/C work at the time. You can check it with a ohm meter but I don't remember which 2 teminals had to have continuity now, sucks to get old but I bet if you look at the wiring you can figure it out. The switch itself would just supply a ground when overheated to blow the limiter. One wire from the switch, one wire from the A/C controls and the third wire ran to compressor clutch. Very simple system.

I have to agree.

I am making well over 400 HP and don't have a problem. But good question. Is the Chevelle frame the same? They make some real nice aftermarket frames for the Chevelle body if it is.