Murphy

Darren's numbers are correct, found in my assembly manual. Different between SB to bb,Google those numbers for more info....

HI Mike, the carb is out of adjustment, specifically the air valve. Is this an automatic trans? electric choke? Any change when the engine is warmed up?

Bill, I'm pretty sure that the body mounts are the same as the Chevelle from the firewall back. Also, I just measured inside my trunk between the inner fenders at the top of the step and it is 46 inches. Top of the step meaning the stepup from the trunk floor. Hope this helps.........Good Luck!

Joe, if you broke the shift indicator assembly, I have one as I had also replaced my speedo when I converted to a manual trans. I've had my cluster out many times as I also converted the idiot lights to gauges........M

Joe, did you remove the gauge cluster or leave the cluster in place for the clock install? My suggestion is to pull the unit, flexable printed circuit bd is extremely brittle due to age. A ground has definately been broken with your simptoms. I had performed the same repair as you are several years ago and had a similar problem. I then removed the cluster completely to find a ground trace going to the turn signal lamps had torn. The PCB is cheap $60 or so, pull the cluster unit and be CAREFUL............. Murphy

Hi Dave.........nope, his name is Jesse. He has really good CL ads with great photos & info about every part.

Further research verified that this part number was 30 spline only. Bought the unit this afternoon, rebuilt new springs and clutches for $200. came from a 69 Camaro SS. Of course this does not include and ring & pinion. This older guy just rebuilds GM differentials and Muncie transmissions. His garage was packed full of diffs, muncie carcasses and tools everywhere.............He highly recommends US Gear for ring and pinion as their the only company still produced in the US. He was a Yukon dealer but dropped them as they also went oversees and use a lower grade steel as did Motive who also bought Richmond. The guy was a wealth of knowledge.............

Did these series 3 posi units all come with 30 spline? Looking at unit for sale but doesn't mention spline count??

Mike, been there! I beleive I used a distributor clamp wrench, got several from Autozone, 1/2 and 9/16"

Mike, a 1" spacer with cargo springs works great. As mentioned, you will need 8" rims for 275 sized tires plus a 5" backspace is perferred.

Daniel, I was was in your shoes a few years back. I decided to replace the old smelly carpet when WHAM the snowball hit. Remove everything from the floor, I cleaned the metal with a wire wheel brush on a drill and a putty scrapper. I needed a drivers floor pan and a patch under the rear seat. A good friend is an excellant welder so I entised his assitance. Be sure to cut out all the bad rot! Then seam sealed all the seams top & bottom, 2 coats of POR15, thermal barrier from Eastwood and then finally the pad and carpet. It took several weekends but was well worth it! Here are a few photos..........Good Luck!

Mike, you'll find that the 3.31 gears are hard to find & those vendors who produce them charge twice as much as the 3.42 gears. I've been looking for awhile and am probably going with the Yukon setup (posi & gears). I figure I can now go with a larger tire also and still get the performance I'm looking for...good luck!

Thanks Paul for your info, I've been looking at these various systems also but have yet to commit...........

I have an original Assembly manual I found locally on Craigslist for $20...........could pass it up!

It mounts at the back of the heater control assembly down to the lower dash frame. I had my dash out several times when doing my gauge upgrade so I remember that bracket. I found it in my assembly manual also, same part for all 3 yrs.

Why can't I find that block number (041) could that be a 014??

I'm pretty open to all recommendations. I spent a year researching & aqquiring parts for the 4speed conversion and it came out beautifully. My 355 is really solid and instead of messing with it, I've decided to build a BBC. I have lots of parts to choose from here locally so I just need a little insight. Not building a strip car just a killer street car.

Started looking at several big block options (454) which heads would be preferred for a street car? I know of several 402 options which are very promising but the cost of rebuild to my liking....just as well do a 454.

Go with a VOLTS gauge, eliminate the problems with high amps in your dash. When I converted from indicators lights to gauges, the wiring issues were cut in half by converting to a volt gauge. Call Gary "the tachman" for the conversion.

My 71 chassis manual shows the spring hooks into the frame but doesn't specify SB or BB.

PC7 is great for repairing plastic surfaces, 2 part epoxy that works like clay.

Drew, I've restored a few wheels but your is toast. I can repair cracks & splits and repaint but when the warping of the plastic is that bad...it's a waste of time.

My Haynes manual "Montecarlo 70 thru 85" , the electrical diagrams for 70 & 71 only show indicator lights wiring but for 72 it has and options page for gauges wiring......

Mike, that might be pretty tough to find. Might be better off to build or have built a console to your liking..........

Jared, how accurate do you think it reads? What does your gauge read at idle?