stangeba

Is your cruise control A/C OEM or aftermarket? Does it work? If it's OEM, do you want to trade for my cable? I added cruise 20 years ago and it still works fine so I have a OEM used 350 THM 350 speedo cable assembly in the basement. Bruce

I was given a modified, small cap GM HEI so it looks like my old points dist but I haven't put it in yet because the old one still runs fine and I have several new sets of points in the glove box. The HEI requires a direct 12 volts, so I would have to run a new wire and all that is more work than I feel like doing. small cap HEI Bruce Dave's Small body HEI site

I was told one out of a Buick Grand national turbo was good but then I don't know about the bell housing bolt pattern, it may not work? I also heard something about the speedo drive, cable vs electronic

Luke, My TSC was disabled in 1971, so unless you want a 100% original car or or an environmentalist who will do anything for clean air, you don't need it hooked up. You should have a vacuum line from the carb (ported spark) "vacuum only after the throttle plates are opened off idle" to the vacuum can on the dist. As to the trans cooler lines, there are two steel lines, one that runs from the trans to the right (passenger) side of the radiator then one out of the rad back to the trans. I don't know where to get cooler lines from, I would call Leo. Leo has almost everything.

On my 71 350 4 BBL with THM 350 trans there is a plug or connector on the right (passenger) side of the trans just above the pan lip area near the cooler lines, that is a control for the TCS (transmission controlled spark) part of an emission device. Other than that, I can't think of any electrical on an original 71 THM 350 trans. Do you know what trans type and or year it is? Perhaps it's a 200 4R overdrive, they have a electrical connection on the left (drivers) side that controls the locking clutch (I think). Good luck. Bruce

Very nice! Local show only?

Welcome! Ask away.

Have you verified the pressure with a known good gauge?

Thanks Ian! Perhaps part of the reason I have never changed from points and condenser is I didn't know if my tachometer would still work. My car runs great, like always. Last problem I had was bad spark plug wires causing a misfire under load. When checking resistance, 6 of 8 wires were too high and the coil wire was high. Bruce

Do the points replacement systems allow the factory tachometer to function properly? Second to that, does a GM HEI (that many here use) allow the tachometer to work properly?

It's a points replacement system. It's NOT HEI so there is no gain in spark voltage. If it fails, where can you get replacement parts quickly?

My brother in-law, the retired Chevy engineer, didn't think the 80 PSI was causing it (although that is a bit high) or the 1 turn. He asked if 80 was a true reading with a good gauge and that it wasn't a 0 - 80 PSI gauge that was maxed out and running even higher. As to the 1/2 turn after zero lash (that I have always used) he said 1/4 or 1/2 or 1 or 2 even 3 turns would work the same on an OEM valve train system. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. The problem he had with his Pontiac OHC 6 (also could happen on a Vega OHC 4 Cyl) can't happen to our Chevy OHV V8 engines (or Ford or Chrysler) because of the valve train design.

Too much oil pressure can do this. Be careful that your oil filter doesn't blow out. I have a call into my brother in-law a retired Chevy engineer. This just happened to his 67 Firebird with the OHC 6 cyl after a rebuild. The oil pump blow off valve was sticking. You should see the oil filter! Bruce

Welcome! Too much oil pressure? Adjusted too tight? Give us more information, engine, cam & lifter brand and age. History on the engine. Bruce

Nice! I just have an old envelope someplace with lot's of receipts in it.

I've been using it for ?? years, since the first week it was released. Got so sick of IE and it's sloooow loading. I use G-mail all the time now also and like it. Bruce

I think I remember my 71 having the made in Canada Maple Leaf on the left door. Bruce

Don't have em, never did. Bruce

My first thought was the coolant spraying all over the engine got into the dist cap or somehow caused condensation to form inside the cap. When running it is cross firing and arching all over (perhaps from the wire boots too) the place. Look for sparks in the dark when the engine is under load anywhere near the plugs, wires and cap. Good luck. Bruce

This may be unbelievable to all of us but I worked on a low mileage Lincoln back in the 70's that had a bent crankshaft caused by the owner spraying the entire can of carb cleaner into his 460 4BBL. After emptying the can into the carb, with the engine OFF, he attempted to start the engine, but since fluid doesn't compress, like air, it hydraulicked the engine. Bruce

I believe the two (4) larger brackets are for the bumper. The smaller set I don't recognize. Bruce

Great! Good news.

tried it just now Wed 4:30 PM

Not sure but it sounds like the booster diaphragm may be leaking or the check valve isn't "checking" like it should. The check valve is the easier thing to check and or replace. It's a one way valve that keeps vacuum in the booster for one or two applications after the engine shuts off. Bruce

Cool! Everyone should check this on their vehicle (including me) Bet it doesn't help the fuel economy. ha ha