stangeba

Don, What is dino stuff? Any reference to Sinclair oil and their mascot Dino the dinosaur? I ran Sinclair oil for the first 5 years on my Monte. Bruce

What hole? You change the steering column over to a floor shift type along with the speedo (PRND21 not used). I never changed over. I figured it would cost me over $1,000 to do it right and can't afford it. Still have the seats, perhaps someday. I wonder if anyone makes a conversion kit where you could buy what you still need? Bruce

If your interested send me an e-mail address and I have two pics I can send you. This link where the two pic are wasn't working just now for some reason? It may start working again soon so you can try it. http://picasaweb.google.com/stangeba/FloorShifter Bruce

You may find some information here: Shiftworks web site I have two pictures that I have found over the years I will E-mail you. Bruce

I believe the air cleaner also had a "KEEP YOUR GM CAR ALL GM" white sticker on the left (drivers side) rear area. You don't see it from a front view. Try a place like this: http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/headline.asp?hid=Q21AJ65485

I'm still on 9.2. They don't support it till OS-X Hate to spend the money on software on a 6 year old computer. Need to get more Monte parts first!

Just some ramblings I see now that you need to sign in or several things are missing. My old MAC computer won't work here :-( don't like this PC as much but I must have my fix of FGMCC so PC it is. (It's Like driving a FORD) Bruce

FYI if you are using an older computer, like I do at times, some of the features don't work like the drop downs under My Stuff and Active Topics. Granted it's a 6 year old MAC but it runs so nice just like my Monte Carlo. Bruce

I found this site you could try. Speedo Gear chart Bruce

As I recall for 1971, the G70x15 was optional when you got the rally wheels. This tire was a single very thin WSW. The standard G78x15 had two very very thin pin stripes. Not sure if the G78x15 was a BSW as standard or not. I now have some very old GR70x15 Thin WSW tires like came on 1976 Monte Carlo's. Bruce

Lloyd, I added the part number (ROM702R) to my post above. I thought I had done that but looks like I forgot. Base mounting gasket came with the kit. I also got the LEFT gasket for some reason and that messed me up at first. Thanks, Bruce

Brian, Do you know what the car had before? What carb and intake is on it now. Many people swap out the Quadrajet for a Holly, If you go from a 2bbl Rochester to a 4bbl Holly, would that require a different downshift cable? I don't know just thought I would post the question to the board. Bruce

Installation of Right Side Mirror on 1971 Monte Carlo I added a right (non remote) chrome mirror that matches the left remote chrome mirror to my 1971 Monte Carlo in August 2006. This mirror uses a flat style glass not convex like in today’s cars so it is less effective and obviously doesn’t have the words “OBJECTS IN MIRROR ARE CLOSER THAN THEY APPEAR”. The mirror (part number ROM702R) was purchased from Ausley’s for $89.86 with shipping. Ausley\'s Web Site Phone: (336) 228-6701 or (336) 228-1365 Orders Only: (800) 228-7539 Here is a step-by-step guide of how I performed this task with pictures, comments and helpful additional dialog that hopefully will educate and amuse you. 1- Roll down the window RIGHT DOOR PANEL 2- Remove the door lock knob 3- Remove the arm rest base (three Philips screws) ARM REST BASE REMOVED 4- Remove the two door pull strap covers COVER SLIDING OFF They slide off, the front one forward, the rear one back. Small built-in clips hold the covers in place but at this point yours, like mine, are probably broken and the covers will slide off fairly easily. If not you will have to slide a thin piece of metal (like a feeler gauge) under the cover to release the clip. This is not an easy thing to do, in fact I believe I was unable to successfully remove mine years ago, and the clips broke in the process. 5- Remove the one Philips screw from under each cover. (Note, these are special screws don’t lose them) BOTH PULL STRAP COVERS AND SCREWS REMOVED Note on the underside of the base are the two screws that hold the armrest pad in place. Tighten them now if they are loose. INSIDE RIGHT ARM REST 6- Remove the door release lever and the window crank (special tool required for the window crank is not needed for the door release lever but will work) REMOVING DOOR RELEASE LEVER WITH SPECIAL TOOL REMOVING WINDOW CRANK HANDLE WITH SPECIAL TOOL Note the small C clips should be put back on both the window crank and door release lever NOW so you don’t lose them. Note the window crank has a round white plastic washer called escutcheon that prevents the crank handle from tearing the vinyl when rotated. WHITE PLASTIC ESCUTCHEON The innie goes toward the window crank giving the clip room. It won’t fit the other way. I feel this part is very important so if you don’t have one, get one. 7- Remove the 5 Philips screws along the bottom of the door trim panel in the carpeted area. Note, Some of these screws could be driven deep into the trim board and buried by the carpet pile so look carefully 8- Using a flat prying device like a gasket scraper, locate and carefully pry the three clips attached to the door trim panel away from the doorframe at the rear and the three clips at the front of the door. SCRAPER UNDER REAR OF DOOR PANEL SCRAPER UNDER FRONT OF DOOR PANEL 9- Pull the lower portion of the door trim panel away from the door and at the same time lift up to remove the trim panel. 10- Remove the window crank spring (note how it’s installed with the large end touching the back of the door panel) don’t loose this and remember to put it back. 11- At this point, check the four pull strap screws for tightness and make sure the six clips are in place (not shown in photo) so they don’t get lost. BACKSIDE OF THE REMOVED RIGHT DOOR PANEL Note the pull strap screw tips can interfere with the covers on re-assembly. I ground mine off a bit so the covers would slide back on. NOW FOR THE CRITICAL PART 12- Measure to drill the two 1/4” holes. The front hole is 6-7/8” back from the front of the door. The rear hole is 3-1/4” back from that and both are 7/8” inboard from the feature line (all measurements are on center). Mark the two spots and check it again. Note my mirror came with two gaskets as seen here. THESE TWO GASKETS CAME WITH MY MIRROR The one on the left with one large opening is the correct one. The other gasket is for a driver’s side remote mirror. I got both in my box with the wrong one already on the mirror. I know of one person in the club who got only the wrong one. This is a MAJOR problem and your mirror will look like this with the wrong (Left) gasket in place. THE WINDOW WON\'T EVEN ROLL UP USING THE WRONG GASKET! When this happened to me I about died thinking I drilled holes in my near perfect door for a mirror that would never work. BACK TO DRILLING THE HOLES Use a sharp center punch to start a hole for the drill bit so it doesn’t wander then measure everything again. A SHARP PUNCH WORKS BETTER I advise placing the mirror studs over the two spots you just punched and visualize how it looks compared to the drivers side mirror. 13- Start off with a 3/32” bit followed by an 11/64” then finish with a 1/4” bit. (Great, step 13, how strange is that) 14- Using a countersink bit I put a slight radius on each hole to help reduce cracking of the metal around the hole. 15- After a trial fit, I used a Q-Tip dipped in zinc rich primer DUPONT PRIMER I USED to touch up the bare metal areas around the holes. AFTER APPLYING PRIMER Note the picture shows a large reddish circle between the two holes I drilled. This is not needed and only there because I was using the wrong gasket and drew it with a Sharpie. ATTACHING THE MIRROR (I did have “mounting the mirror” but with this group decided to change my wording) Carefully pull down or remove the paper water shield. My mirror came with two 10mm nuts. I added a lock washer to each nut and tightened both securely. In reality, the rear mirror stud comes directly in contact with a brace welded into the door assembly preventing this nut from being anything but easy to install or tighten. I left the front nut very loose and lifted the rear of the mirror so the stud was only protruding into the hole about 1/4”. Small fingers and great manual dexterity is needed to do this step but even I managed after many attempts. Note a magnet to retrieve the nut when it falls into the door is required. Removing the metal shavings inside the door at the bottom (they’re sharp) from the drilling process is also a good idea. It is helpful to have a variety of both deep and shallow 1/4” drive sockets and extensions. I didn’t keep track of what lengths worked well and what didn’t but what ever you use, the rear nut is a tough one to tighten. I wondered about removing some of the brace to give me more room, but didn’t. HOW DOES IT LOOK? It should look like this or at least I think it should. NEW RIGHT CHROME MIRROR LOOK MOM, TWO MIRRORS! REASSEMBLY 1- Secure the old paper water shield or replace it. Don’t extend the shield beyond the area the door panel will cover or you will have to remove the door panel again to cut some off. 2- Remember the window crank spring I mentioned above? It’s time to put it back on, small end facing the door side and large end against the door panel side. This spring tends to fall off so keep an eye on it. 3- Attach the top of the door panel making sure the door lock stud is positioned through the hole on top and swing the lower portion in place. 4- Line up the six clips and hit them in place one by one with your hand. 5- Install the two Philips screws into the pull strap (Leave loose for now) and start the five small Philips screws in the lower part of the door. Once you have them all started tighten them all up. 6- Install the door latch handle and window crank (remember the escutcheon) Note position the window crank so it’s in the same position (with both windows down) as the left door. I have positioned mine so the crank knob doesn’t hit my leg when the window is all the way down. 7- Install the armrest base and tighten the three Philips screws. 8- Install the door lock knob and verify it functions properly. 9- Adjust your new right chrome mirror for many years of driving fun and enjoyment and safer lane changes. Note the information contained in the above article is a written document of how I installed my right side mirror on my 1971 Chevrolet Monte Carlo with manual windows. All reference made to the right side of the above mentioned automobile is understood to be the same as the passenger side of said vehicle. Results may vary and no guarantee as to the accuracy or sanity of the author Bruce Stange.

Wallaby and Andybill402, Thanks for the tip, I won't even take off the cover. Bruce

I would replace the old seal with a new one however is the seal the same part number / size or is it special since the sleeve changes the diameter. How hard (enough room) is it to remove the pan with the engine in the car? 350, stock manifolds, no A/C. Last time (22 years ago) the engine was out and I was younger. Thanks, Bruce

Mine is leaking and has a grove, I want to remain stock. Are the sleaves any good? Do you then need a different seal? Bruce

Thr Right chrome to match the left remote mirror is available at Ausleys Pt. Number ROM702R $79.95 each. It is not in their ON LINE listing. My e-mail was answered Quote, "yes 79.95" I called today and got more information. The chrome was not good enough on the first run so they had more made. I hope these are good because I sure miss a mirror (never had one) on the right side. I will report back when I get it. Bruce

Has anyone found the right that matches the left REMOTE style yet? I remember one company was trying to produce it but with poor quality didn't release it. I called someone (can't find the company name) and asked them to let me and our club know because I felt we are very interested. I know I want one ASAP. Bruce

I remember the first time I removed the pan to change the fluid and filter, the filter screen was torn! It's got 145,000 miles now and other than leaking a bit still works great! What fluid do you put into them now? In the 70's it was either red for Fords or the GM stuff. Don't know about Chrysler. Bruce

It had one from the factory and since I'm the original owner I know where it's been. Bruce

My 71 350 has one. As few times as people changed the trans fluid and filter they saved some money and dropped it. I think a nut is welded to the inside of mine. Don't know if the work is worth it. Bruce

My stock converter was leaking at a spot in the weld. Cost me two trans pull outs and a ft pump prior to finding out the true cause of the leak. Did anyone mention to check the inside of the dist cap for carbon tracking or a fouled plug where the bad wire was? Could someone have crossed two plug wires as a prank? I did it myself once (not as a prank) good luck. Bruce

About 16 years ago I got GM springs for a 350 with A/C since mine had come down over the first 15 years. I don't have A/C and thought the ft end would have come down by now but it's still a bit too high for my taste. Bruce

From my 71 built in Canada here is a picture. Bruce

It could vari by when or where the Monte was built. My 71 had the black out and it's black. Built in Canada. I repainted the black out to keep it as original as poss. I'm sure it cost a bit to mask off and send the car through the oven again so busy plants may have used a dark color as a way to speed things up and save money. Bruce