Hoodicoff1

the space was there before, always had starter problems with misalignment problems, grinding etc.... few weeks ago transmission was making a weird whining noise, changed the fluid and filter, quietened down for a bit, then started to slip, I decide to pull the cover off, discovered the flywheel was bent, straightened it out, and discovered the huge gap, installed spacers and everything worked fine until last night when it really started making a racket which is when I discovered the crack

something is wrong with the pump, I'm sure of it, yeah flexplate is in the right way, with the bumped out portions facing the transmission, haven't pulled the torque converter out yet to see if there is some damage on the snout. Car won't move unless I put spacers in between the flex plate and converter, which then leads to the issue of the flexplate moving around too much and causing it to crack.

I'm stumped, if I bolt the torque converter directly to the flexplate, the pump will not engage on the transmission, I have to install some washers in between the flexplate and the torque converter for the pump to engage? Is something screwed in the transmission? The odd thing is the car seems to drive just fine with the washers in place, just concerned on damage to the new flexplate I install, the old flexplate was cracked and I don't think the washers helped with the situation.

tried to race my dad in his new toy ( I lost) can't compete with twin turbos and all wheel drive, I'll still beat him at roasting tires

might be your hazard light switch as well

pulled the distributor back out, moved it back one tooth, modified the throttle bracket to fit the new intake, built another bracket for the downshift cable, refilled the coolant and got all the air out of the system. Test drove and adjusted the timing, car breaks the rear tires on command just the way it should Now with the 160 degree thermostat car seems to hold its temperature at around 175 ish when hot as opposed to the 190+ it would sit at before so all is good!

swapped the Edelbrock Performer intake for an Air-Gap intake, re-routed the heater hose to the top of the water pump, installed a 160 degree thermostat, gonna experiment to see if the car will cool any lower than 190 degrees. Starter is hanging up yet again, this'll be the 3rd starter in a year, not too happy with Bosch stuff [img:left] _DSC0204 by Hoodicoff, on Flickr[/img] [img:right] _DSC0205 by Hoodicoff, on Flickr[/img]

dusted it off, charged the paint Nicest day of the year by Hoodicoff, on Flickr

detailed the 383, fixed up some loose ends.Have an air gap intake waiting for some time to do the swap now that I have the room with the cowl hood _DSC0098 by Hoodicoff, on Flickr

I'm also running a 700r4 with those headers. The ONLY problem I had with em is I had to use a couple of smaller header bolts due to clearance issues with an opened ended wrench. They've been on the car for 5 years now and the finish still looks the same as they day they were bolted on

tie the redwire to the ignplug on the fuse box white to the ilum plug in the fuse box and the green to the - side of the coil or the "tach" connection on your HEI distributor

Hopefully I will make it to a western meet as soon as I work all the bugs out of er! I sure would like to meet some of guys in real life. The stuff I use for sub boxes and other interior panels is a super stretchy non backed material, it molds quite well to pretty much anything. Most good car audio places should have the material. I found a site that carries the stuff as well http://www.yourautotrim.com/80wideozite.html

_DSC0068 by Hoodicoff, on Flickr These seats are out of a Thunderbird, as soon as I get the strato bench seat redone, these seats will be gone. They are super comfy but don't match anything.

_DSC0065 by Hoodicoff, on Flickr I used 3/8 masonite and some black speaker box carpet to build up a new package tray, also covered the whole shelf with some B-quiet, you can also get some black vinyl if you want more of an 'Original' look

_DSC0072 by Hoodicoff, on Flickr here's the link on Holleys website : Hooker headers

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/2466/10002/-1 I had a set of long tube headers, first time I unloaded the car off a car hauler they were destroyed. These headers fit great, and I don't notice any performance difference

I managed to squeeze a set of gauges into the blank where the A/C centre vent typically goes _DSC0221 by Hoodicoff, on Flickr

this is the view from the top of "Old Glory" around the Rossland British Columbia area We have reached the top! by Hoodicoff, on Flickr

Well for the third time my 700r4 has blown up!!! First time I had the transmission rebuilt the car would not go forward the second I put it into drive. He rebuilt it no questions asked, it worked for three weeks then second gear ceased to exist, it would stay in first gear rev up to a ludacris RMP of 4200 then go into third. He "tightened up the bands" and it seemed to work fine. After that things seemed to be alright but the transmission was a a complete slush box. Then tonight I took a girl out for a drive and with my embarrasment it went 1st gear then....... NOTHING!!! had to drive 15 miles in first, so should I get my money back or what? the only problem I could have is he gave is the fact HE never set up the TV cable BUT i very carefully followed the instructions on www.700r4.com AND and I also modified the linkage on my carb in accordance to the diagrams I found online AND I also had the line pressure checked!!. Good thing the inurance runs out in 3 days, BUT should I get my money back from this guy since I spent 2300 bucks with him, and if so where should I get a transmission from?

Ill always remember when a guy from up Goose creek valley put a 366 in a 78 chevy and i uttered: 'hmm looks like a big block, hmm smells like a big block, uses fuel like a big block, oh and it goes like a 6 cylinder!

well you should be running the 6x9s lower then 150 hz, they will play down to at least 40 hz, putting up the frequency that high is eliminating all your midbass, Im just trying to set up the system so the rears are not over powering the fronts. If you are just using the 6x9s for rear fill then 150hz would be alright but let em play lower,

personally Id run the fronts off the Alpine, run the 6x9's off the deck, and get a decent amp for the subs, you probably have an older Alpine amp the "DUO B" circuit and the square green light, they were a decent amp in their day, keep the bass low on the deck and boost it on the sub amp you can kind of fake a crossover that way

in the transmission?, or is the cable binding up some where between the transmission and carb cuz mine is nice and straight, it moves fine, got the right linkage for it, Ill take it back to the tranny shop right away, I did pay 2300 bucks to have this thing rebuilt, and it would be real nice to have it work

couple good tricks for finishing the kick panels that save me a hell of a lot of time are just covering them with black amp rack speaker carpet, its strecthy conforms to everything and doesnt need a heck of a lot of finishing underneath of it. Or get some SEM texture spray, works great for a top coat and is thick enough to hide a lot of the blemeshes. Covering them in vinyl would almost be next to impossible due to the recess where the vent pulls are Now with the muddy Bass issue, if you are running a subwoofer cross em over at a higher frequency (around 80 hz) I sell those Excelon speakers and I find that they where designed to be used in conjuction with a subwoofer, the fs on the material that the cone was made out of is a bit high so they don't really play that deep, I know it might be a silly question but could your speakers possibly be out of phase? This winter will be my turn to do my kicks, the challenge will be to get a set of Hertz Mille 6/5 inch Mids down there and a set of Mille serial number matching tweets up on the A pillars then tons of time correction Finally found a set of Speakers that sound better then my Focal 165k2p's in my truck

Now got my 700 r4 all set up best I could, it has been working fine until today, took it to work this morning and it wont shift out of 1st till I hit around 4500 then its fine, tried adjusting the TV cable back and fourth, I can feel it pulling the valve inside the transmission, but whereever I adjust it is still doing the same thing and another odd thing I noticed is that the tranny will not remain in first gear when I shift to first nor will it gear down, quick fix or is it back to the transmission shop to see if he missed something for the third time?