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good deal there if your looking to go posi

believe it or not LS5 thats exactly what I did and the car doesnt seem to be sitting any lower then when it had the 350 in it.

10 hours of labor to replace a 10$ part. its all labor. im doing a front seal on a tranny of a ford freestar right now and its a 16 hour job. part cost 22$

go with adjustable uppers and lowers if you dont you will always wish you did. may as well hold off a bit and save up some more and do it right the first time.

The satin blackive used in the past , John deer blitz black is actually very easy to use , when I had scratches all I did was scuff the whole panel with scotch brite clean with prep sol and respray the panel. Never had a problem. That leads us to your issue, your panel has a graphic in it. I would think you could mask up the graphic and reshoot the panel with not to much of a problem. I'm assuming you used a base oat with a satin clear. Which makes the job a little more labor intensive but still seems like an easy fix. I painted a motorcycle some years back with a 2 stage paint with semi clear and the owner eventually polished and buffed it and it came out a little more shiny then it was but still looked good.

Wow never even thought of that. That's something I'm going to have to look into.

wow those heat shrink fittings are great, ive never seen them before, im definaely going to use them in the future. They may even make the inexpensive ss hoses finish up nice instead of those tacky looking cheap hose clamps with the aluminum cover. Could probably use a t bolt hose clamp on top just for safety. great for applications like radiator fittings where true screw on an fittings would be very costly.

Alternator is the same just different mount motor mounts are the same. You may need a bigger radiator. As far as the fan shroud I've heard the small block one will work with some minor mods. I haven't gotten that far yet so I can't say for sure. I didn't change my front springs and my nose still is a little to high for my liking so I'm glad I didn't go for the bb springs as I assume they would have made the front even higher.

You can get a Spectra Premium 3 core radiator with a lifetime warranty from autozone for about $175 and a 2 core for even less.

high 50's here yesterday and the day before and low teens today, thought ide be able to work onmy 72 today but too cold and no room inside untill I move my office to other side of shop. hopefully that will be done by next week. looks like the weather is going to break soon

I did some ss logos for a friend on his 86 monte ss using the plastidip and they look great and have lasted through this horrific winter we have been having here in NY. the car is kept in the street and is a daily drive. Ide give it a shot with the plastidip and if you dont like it you can just take it off easily enough.

If im not mistaken the vintage air setup comes with a panel of its own that mounts where the existing panel is and looks just like the original

awsome, hope mine sounds that good when its done.

The paint is a small part of the expense involved in a full paint job, when you take into account all the time involved in the prep work. I would try to figure out how much paint you will need based on the answers above then order 50% more just in case. Once you get started you never know what's going to happen and even if you can get more if you need it you never know if it's going to be an exact match. So order more and make sure you save some for touch up down the road if nesesary.

Just realized most of my cutting of spot welds now a days is on newer cars so the metal is a lot thinner then in the days of old so I'm sure that the metal gauge makes a big difference

The cutters are funny I can use 1 for 200 spot welds before it breaks a tooth then the next one will cut 6 welds and breaks , that's why I assume it's all in how you apply the pressure ,,,,,,, slow and easy let the tool do the work and the pilot holes are a must

Yep there are 2 on each side right under the cowls at the firewall

any auto body and paint shop will have spot weld cutting bits for a few dollars. I usually dill the center of the welds first with a small drill bit all the way through then use the spot weld bit to cut out the weld in the outer panel and it works great. just go slow with the cutter and let it do the work itself. ive done it this way for 20 years never using any lube.

have it rebuilt, if theres 1 issue it wont be long before theres another, may as well just have it done and sleep good at night knowing its done

how about a filter for the armpits, LOL. Thats a geat story I would never have thought of it, I have to add that to my checklist. Its so funny that unless your in the business of painting youde never believe it. Thanks for sharing.

I've read over the years about the possible problems with running diesel heaters when painting. I personally have painted maybe 100 cars using a diesel heater to heat my shop and have not run into any fish eye problems , however I do sometimes have some dust issues in my paint that are easily remedied by wet sanding and polishing which I do anyway after a paint job. Over the years I have found a few other products that will cause fish eye and the number 1 product. That I don't use in my shop at all is WD. 40 the particles stay airborne for hours. Also any other spray lubes I use I limit the amount of and thoroughly air out and clean shop before I paint. I also prefer painting with a damp floor to keep down dust and minute particles.

I'm in the process of doing my rear suspension also went with boxed lowers and adjustable uppers . Having a hell of a time getting the bushing into the rear end housing, got 1 almost on but still have about an inch to go, had to walk away from it last night as it was getting me frustrated and I didn't want to mess anything up. Any tips on how you got them in? Your setup looks great only hope mine comes out as well. Great work there.

Drop spindles will work on front but there are no spindles on the rear to drop. You will have to get a set of lowering springs or find a set of springs that are shorter then the originals with a load on them, this is dependent on the load rate of the spring itself. The actual spring may be the same size as what you have now or even longer but when the weight of the car is on it it wil sit lower. I'm sure there are a few people here that can explains it better then me so I'll leave that to them. I'll kep monitoring this post as well as I plan on dropping my 72 by 2" as welll

So the bolster model would need some extra foam panels added as well as the seat covers?

PUI offers a set of seat covers for the first gen montes with a bolster option . Can anyone explain what this option is?