72jrfan88 Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Hello everyone. Are the warning lights on the dash HOT and GEN ect suppose to light up and turn off after you start car? Just wondering because ive never seen mine light up. Reason im wondering is because the weather started to heat up. On cool drives I havent seen coolant dump out after I shut it off u ntill the weather got Hotter. I have a new thermostat but the coolant level I keep a inch lower that the cap. Is this two high tobegin with? And is what im seeing normal since there is no overflow tank? The hose usually dumps a small amount of coolant when I shut it off. Looks a little foamy when it comes out of the hose. But the coolant looks good as well. Wondering if it foams because of the pressure? All your experience is appreciated! Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 I think it's normal upon start up for all the idiot lights to turn on. If they stay on then you have a problem. As far as the coolant problem you may want to buy a new 16 lb cap and see if that helps. My radiator was foaming over cause I had a vacuum leak. Not saying you do but is one of the symptoms I had for overheating and foam in the coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 All 3 idiot lights should illuminate when cranking the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 I think its normal to have an inch or so down in the radiator. Because our cars normally dont have an expansion tank the coolant has to go somewhere when it heats up and expands. I plan on adding an expansion tank when I switch to an electric fan. Should keep the rad nice and full not to mention cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 actually with a a surge tank....even 3" down is not uncommon, for those that do use or want to add a tank, you must also add the appropriate radiator cap that allows the coolant back into the radiator, and the hose to the surge tank must go the the bottom of the tank so it stays submerged in the coolant or it can't be drawn back into the radiator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footballubet Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 The crossflow radiator without a coolant tank can run 2"-4" below the filler neck. The foaming you see is from the pressure pushing the coolant out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72jrfan88 Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 Ok guys thanks for the input. I think it may have been over full to begin with. I did add a 16 lb cap yesterday...should I put the 15 lb back on? Also if those indicator lights arent working at all could the bulbs be bad? Or is there one main solenoid that controls these lights somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footballubet Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Could be bulbs or the printed circuit board on the back of the cluster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Quite possibly just bulbs, I replaced all my bulbs last fall when the dash was partially out, I think there was 17 or 18 bulbs. I had 6 bad ones. Got the bulbs at Grainger for less than a buck a piece.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 I added LED bulbs cause the incandescents seem to burn out a lot and isn't fun to replace them. Got to be careful cause they are polarity sensitive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72jrfan88 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 Thanks guys. Do you have to pull full dash pad forward to do this? Or can you just unscrew the Wood grain paneling to gain access. The only light I have that really works is the blue parking brake light..the turn signals work but the green arrows dont light up either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 You have to remove the dash pad 5 screws. Then remove the bolts that hold the dash panel assembly in. I think there are around 4, 1 on each side and 2 in the center. Then you can tilt the dash forward and access the bulb sockets. I think someone has a good write up on it in the "how to section" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Perhaps a bit off the main topic but if they help, here are a bunch of pictures with my 71 NO A/C dash out and some of the I/P (instrument panel) however I have the full factory gauge package. No. the wood grain doesn't come off easy and when it is off offers NO access to the bulbs and stuff. Top of the dash needs to be removed. 2 or three small screws when you open the glove box door and 3 or 4 going through the wood grain at the top, and it lifts a bit and then pull back. The shifter will need to be in drive to give you more room. (Don't roll away!) You may want to get a shop manual, big big help! Bruce 71 non A/C heater core and dash pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72jrfan88 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 Ok thank you guys! Great pictured Bruce. I also have a non a.c. bucket seat car. Shifter wont be in the way, because otherwise knowing me I would roll away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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