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hydrolic roller or flat tappet roller cam


bigscaht

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so im slowly starting my 454 build......bottom end is done .30 over. head will be getting some work unless i go aftermarket heads..but my question is should I go with a roller cam or flat tappet cam. i was thinkin roller because of the easy break in on them.

 

PROS AND CONS???

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roller, roller, roller, roller, roller, roller, roller, roller, roller, roller, roller, roller, roller, roller, roller, roller!!!!!

 

with today's oils, and metals aren't what they used to be, you will be much farther ahead by spending the extra for a hydraulic roller!!!!!

 

if you give me all the details of your build, I am very good with big block cam selection

 

I have a set of 781's at the machine shop new getting bigger valves installed, and just ordered my new HYDRAULIC ROLLER :rofl: cam

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Sam , you going to share your cam specs?

if you must know :lol:

 

231/239 @.050 duration, .600/.600 lift on a 106 ICL/110 LSA, Lunati VooDoo hydraulic roller 20110712

 

with using iron heads I am on the edge of having to use more than pump 93 octane, I do not want to have to do that :eek: I have not set my compression yet, I would like to go to 10:1 but am afraid of needing better fuel

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Build details...we so far my block is .30 over...I have a set of peanut port heads that I'm thinkin about useing and an eddy rpm intake.....342 gears out back and not opposed to getting a stall higher than stock...I like the roller cams cuz they sounds like less maintenance

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peanut port heads are only good to approx 4500 rpm

 

you should really try to get a set of big ovals, depending on which pistons you choose would have implications on which heads to look for

 

the heads play a big part of where your compression ends up, I would have the block deck surface done to bring the deck height to zero to control the quench distance to help prevent dentenation

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Yeah a friend told me about the 4500 rpm limit also. Which heads would be good with the flat top stock pistons. I was thinking bout upping the e compression by switching to some domed pistons with valve reliefs and run the heads I have but I think it would be better to switch to some better heads.

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with iron heads you need to limit your compression to around 9.5, I am fighting with that right now, I want more compression but don't want to use race fuel

 

there are a bunch of small chamber oval ports that will help flat top pistons, if you use domes 781 & 049's are the best

 

here are some of the smaller chambered heads

 

3856202  97cc chamber

3856260  

3872702   98cc

3904390   98cc

3909802  101cc

3917215   101cc

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will i be close to having to use better than 93 octane with any of those heads???

the casting number on the heads i have  are 14081045..are these any good or jus boat anchors???

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peanut port heads are only good to approx 4500 rpm

 

you should really try to get a set of big ovals, depending on which pistons you choose would have implications on which heads to look for

 

the heads play a big part of where your compression ends up, I would have the block deck surface done to bring the deck height to zero to control the quench distance to help prevent dentenation

Ummm...what language is this? :B LOL

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will i be close to having to use better than 93 octane with any of those heads???

the casting number on the heads i have  are 14081045..are these any good or jus boat anchors???

you have to looking at the pistons, heads, deck height, head gaskets and cam as a combination

 

first get the heads, then choose pistons to work with the combustion chambers, cam plays in here too esp if you are on the edge of needing race fuel

 

boat anchors on those heads

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I'll add my two cents for what it's worth.  When it comes to engine building and you're looking for any type of substantial power over stock, you will eventually regret not doing it "right" the first time.  "Right" to me means all forged lower end(ie. crankshaft, rods, pistons, etc.).  Billet roller cam with full roller rocker arms and roller lifters(ie Full Roller assembly).  No roller tip rockers.  You might as well buy stamped rockers. There was a study done on roller tips and it was discovered that they really don't do what they are supposed to do(ie. they act like stamped rockers thus are not worth the extra money).  Also, use one piece lift rods, no welded tip lift rods.

 

If you add good quality aluminum heads and a blow thru proof HP Holley carb and you are already ready for power adders when you're ready to do that (ie Procharger).

 

I realize this isn't cheap but you might as well save and wait to do it right rather than get in a big hurry and settle for something that you will eventually regret.

 

Now,...bear in mind my preface for my two cents,... you're looking for any type of substantial power over stock.  Also keep in mind, just because you use the best pieces, that doesn't mean it won't break.  Anything mechanically can break at anytime :cry: .  Again, just my two cents, no hate mail :grin: . - Dave

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