Rock Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 When I was burping the system I had the heater turned on. At this point I am thinking water pump myself. I would think when the thermostat opened I would see significant water flow through the radiator fill hole. But I don't. It just kind of sits there and foams up a little. You would think if the water pump was bad you would see some kind of wobble or noise coming from the pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 If the impeller is lose on the shaft you might not see a wobble but the water would not flow. I have seen this only once in all of my years working on cars so it can happen. Also the impeller might be clogged or the flutes not all clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 Well I tore apart the front of the motor only to find out the pump is fine. The only thing left is timing and air/fuel mixture like Sam mentioned. I will have to invoke the professional mechanic for this. I watched a video and it doesn't look to tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snomobeelr Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Glenn. Sorry your having this issue. If you know a mechanic thats great. If you can change the water pump and install those shocks, Timing a car is relatively straight forward. You don't need an expensive timing light. Just make sure you disconnect the Vacuum advance and plug the hose to the engine. Is the engine stock or modified? Was your car changed to an HEI or is it still points ? Timing light with no bells or whistles 30 bucks on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3551-Inductive-Timing-Light/dp/B000EVYH72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 Glenn. Sorry your having this issue. If you know a mechanic thats great. If you can change the water pump and install those shocks, Timing a car is relatively straight forward. You don't need an expensive timing light. Just make sure you disconnect the Vacuum advance and plug the hose to the engine. Is the engine stock or modified? Was your car changed to an HEI or is it still points ? Timing light with no bells or whistles 30 bucks on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3551-Inductive-Timing-Light/dp/B000EVYH72 My car has an HEI distributor. I have a timing light and I have a good idea how to adjust timing but I do t know how to find the optimum adj. for timing. Some say this some say that, is there an easy answer? I just watched a video and this guy sets his timing on a SBC 350 at 36 degrees at 2500 rpm. Is this a good reference? The. I watched a video on setting the carb and all I need is a vacuum gauge and I a sure I could easily do that. I have a couple weeks to do it so wish me luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Peters Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 I cant remember if you had checked to see if one of the radiator hoses is collapsing on the inside causing the flow to be restricted? rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 I cant remember if you had checked to see if one of the radiator hoses is collapsing on the inside causing the flow to be restricted? rob both the upper and lower hoses are braided so I can't see if they are collapsing or not. They are pretty new so I assume they are good. I will try tuning the engine to specs. And see if it makes a difference. Everything I have read points to timing and lean issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 I ran electric fans for a long time, and without any engine driven fan. I had issues from day one. It couldn't maintain the temps in traffic. If the car didn't have enough forward speed the temp would slowly rise and get to the scary region of the temp scale. It was impossible to keep a good idle mixture or timing adjustment, as the engine liked one setting at 180 and something different at 210+. I knew that whenever I would exit the freeway I was in for an experience. But I was stubborn; I tried different electric fans. I tried custom shrouds. I tried large fans and multiple small fan setups. I tried different fan switching schemes, electrics, wiring, high output alternators, etc. Nothing worked well for me... I spent most of my driving trips constantly eyeing that temp gauge and worrying. It never boiled over on me, but it ran crappy as it got hotter and frankly, I got tired of the issue. I just wanted to go back to watching the fuel gauge instead. LOL I converted back to the original heavy steel fan and thermal clutch setup. They say it uses a lot of horsepower to drive it, but I couldn't feel any difference in power or gas savings. It was obvious that the engine-driven fan moved mountains of air... much more than I ever got from electrics, and now my temps are stable again. It's ugly, noisy, and not even a little bit custom, but it WORKS. I don't like solid-mounted fans or flex fans. The stock setup works best at slow speeds then lightens up as speed increases... it's a good design and a properly working heavy duty thermal clutch is key. That's my rant about electric fans. Using one in addition to the stock setup might help, but I often wondered if it might actually impede the flow of air the engine fan is trying to move. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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