1972mc Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 Will I need to be concerned about breakage on my factory driveshaft? It has been hand sanded but will be sandblasted and powdercoated in clear. Have not had driveshaft balanced as it ran with no vibration issues with my old 350 engine and T-350 tranny. I did add a small dent while removing old u-joints. Should I get it balanced? What about axle breakage? Axles are factory w/ new studs mounted to 15x8 steel rally rims. Don't want to have dumped $20 G's into my resto mod and hit the wall if the axle comes out. Monte Carlo Drag Specifications Blueprint (Marshall) Engines 383 stroker Engine HP 405 Engine Torque 440 Transmission T-350 w/ strong shift kit Torque Converter 2800 RPM Rear Gear 2.73 limited slip 12 bolt Rear Tire Diameter 28 inch Carb Holley 750 Vac Sec Curb Weight 3500 lb??? Trans gear ratios 1st 2.52 2nd 1.52 3rd 1.00 hedman elite 1 5/8" pipes to 3" collector dynomax ultraflo mufflers 2 1/2" mandrel bent pipes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 I don't think breaking your driveshaft with 405 hp is gonna be in issue...now a u-joint might let go with sticky tires. By the way is this 405 rear wheel or flywheel hp? I myself was concerned with the factory axles breaking on my car when running it with drag radials let alone slicks. I purchased a set of aftermarket Moser C-clip axles, much beefier and a direct bolt in. Your 2.73 gear won't be as hard on your axles so you might get away with them for awhile. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1972mc Posted November 26, 2007 Author Share Posted November 26, 2007 My brain was on vacation- rear is a 3.73 Tires are 265/60-15 BFG G Force street legal drag slicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1972mc Posted November 26, 2007 Author Share Posted November 26, 2007 405 hp is at flywheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 Hey Carl, I'm running Hoosier QTP 27x10.5's. I have an 8.2 rear with an eaton p-trac 3.73 motive gears and moser c-clip axles. I also installed a heavy duty rear cover with bolts that reinforce the bearing caps for the carrier. I don't think I have quite the hp/torque numbers but I'm pretty close. I have the stock d/s with 1310 u-joints. I'm not afraid of the setup at this power level and have cut a best 1.76 60'. Your car is somewhat lighter( 3500 lbs) than mine as it is right at 3900 pounds with me and 1/2 of gas. I'm guessing if you can get your car to hook maybe 12.3's. Just a guess. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1972mc Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 Thanks David--I think for peace of mind after dropping 15+ G's on this thing, I don't want to watch an axle pass me while I'm nailing it on the qtr mile. C-Clip eliminators are in my future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 You are aware C-clip eliminators will leak when driven on the street aren't you? Moser or any decent rear-end company will have beefier 30-spline C-clip axles that you could use instead of the eliminators for around $235 for the pair. They are good for low 11's with a car as heavy as a monte. I've been using the axles for several years with many trips to the track running high 11's. Just in case you want to check them out (maybe you have already) here's a link... Moser C-clip axles Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 if I was to do it all over again, before I ever spent a penny on my 12 bolt, I would just step-up to a 9" , as much as I've put into my 12 bolt, I could have had one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heckeng Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 I second the axles instead of the c-clip eliminators. I called several companies because I was worried just like you. Everybody who made the c-clip eliminators told me not to get them if I was driving them on the street because they will leak, and while they keep the axle in with bolts, the 4 3/8" bolts holding in the c-clip eliminators can't handle the stress of street driving--yes, this is actually what they told me! the best option is to convert the ends to a ford style pressed bearing housing end. But that is expensive. I went with the Moser axles. The new axles were 3/16" to 1/4" larger in diameter than the stock axles at the weakest part, that's pretty significant in my opinion. Here is a pic of the size difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Instead of eliminators, just upgrade to rear disc brakes. They will keep the axle in place if the c-clip fails. Will sure slow you down on one side, though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1972mc Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 Man am I glad I put these things out to you guys. I have been on the phone with Moser and Strange. The latest call to Moser the guy said exactly what you just said. I have found for most tech questions I need to get 3-4 opinions/(prefer experience). They suggested new axles only for my target ET (11's). He said if I get into 10's (maybe future goals-Gone in 60 SEconds!!), that I would need stronger spool. Did not know about the leaking issue-thanks Scott- where did you get the sweet looking rear bumper? Your garage looks like mine (at times) Sam-I was going through the same cost analysis on my 12 bolt. $235 for axles will put me into about $1200 after buying housing, new eaton posi, new richmond gears, studs, bearings, setup etc.. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heckeng Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 1972MC, If you have to buy EVERYTHING for the rear end, you might look at spending a little more money, and buying an entire unit. You can get a Moser 12 bolt rear end with ford style ends, gears, posi, axles for $2239. You can also get a Ford 9" housing and axle setup for $885, then you just need to get a center section, which you could get used or new, depending on how much money you wanted to spend. Either one would be safer than stock style, and the 9" would be stronger. Just food for thought Yeah, I know, the garrage is a mess I forgot who I bought the bumper from, but it was very hard to find and get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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