Guest alphamale1906 Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 I was prepping my 350 for installation into a car with a TH350 and just remembered there is a pilot bushing in the crank for a manual shaft. This engine was originally in a manual car and I never removed the pilot bushing after pulling it from the donor car. Is there any requirement to remove the bushing? I thought I had read that it could damage the flexplate (or something) if not removed prior to installing an automatic flexplate. If it can just remain, great as that's less hammering or pulling that I'd have to do to the engine. Otherwise, if someone knows that it is a must to remove, please let me know. Also, if it has to come out, has anyone used the "grease and drift" technique? Y'know, packing the crank with grease and hammering a drift the size of the bushing hole through the bushing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 yes it MUST come out, and yes the grease and drift works just get one that is the tightest fit into the pilot bearing as possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montefrazer Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 Grease and drift worked for me too in the past. The tighter the drift is in the hole, the easier the bushing comes out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I have used the grease and drift or an old input shaft, I have also ued a tap to cut threads into it the tap bottoms out in the crank and forces the bushing out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteAZBB70 Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 A trick I learned from my dad a long time ago (and nothing I've ever seen in any book!) is to use a tap. Find one that's about the same size as the center hole and just start threading it in. It's bronze so it's frairly soft. Once the tap hits the end of the crank, the bushing will just start walking backwards out of the hole so you don't have a greasy mess to deal with. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest alphamale1906 Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Time to break out the ole Tap and Die set. I had reserved my self to getting lubed up with grease and an alignment tool. I thought about tapping the busing, screwing in a bolt and using the slide hammer. However, just letting the tap walk the bushing out seems to be the best idea yet. I will have to try that and post how things work out! Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest alphamale1906 Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Long live the drift and grease method! I didn't have a tap that was big enough, so that was out. The bushing must have been an original to the engine and was worn pretty large so my old alignment tool was too small for a snug fit into the center of the bearing (maybe women are right....size does matter). So, as a result I went onto the right size socket and extension! About 6 good whacks and about 3/4 cup of grease and the bearing popped out. I would say be generous with the amount of force when hitting the dowel or socket (7/16 by the way) or whatever you plan on using. Also, it's key to get all of the air pockets out. Once that's done, the bearing won't stand a chance. Thanks for all of your help!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevroletR Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 Some toolmakers like Snap-on make pullers with removable ends for little jobs like that. I borrowed one from a friend to use on my truck and it worked nicely. One of those things to borrow though because the average person might use it a few times in their lifetime! Ryan www.RyansCustoms.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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