Guest chico,70'chev Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Not sure what converter to get.Got any suggestions? My 350 Dyno'd out at 316hp 365 lbs.I'll install a 100hp.shot of N.O.S. I won't have any problems hooking with such a mild motor,not a daily driver,but will get BEAT ON regardless.The 350 tranny was rebuilt 5 years ago adding a mild shift kit.I'm using rebuilt stock heads now,so I'll be upgrading to a $1200 set later.expecting 60 more hp after porting.Thanks for Ur comments! 12 bolt posi,3.55 gears (Auburn).Mini tubbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 hahahahh u wanna bet you won't have traction problems!? (then I just noticed the mini tub).. why mini-tub with so little power? I'm pulling about 330-350hp right now (never dyno'd) and since I had that 2500 rpm stall converter put in.. I have to be VERY careful on the street or I just smoke the tires all the way thru the lights. but I have pizza cutters @ 215/65-15 it really depends on where your cam 'comes in' at what rpm do you REALLY feel the engine come alive? my cam really shines @ 3000 rpm or a bit less.. but after talking with some of the guys on here that have 3k stall and drive it on the street.. i went with 2500.. (I was lookign for 2400 but 2500 is what the trans shop could get) and it love it.. it feels like a smoked 1st gear when you take off slow and easy.. but if you get on it.. it makes for a wild ride 3k rpm is a little high on the street.. and if you don't have the luxury of locking torque converter (th350*C*) or 700r4 or 200-4r, you might even want less then 2500. one last thoughtI had tho.. if you are using nitrous, you should consider a converter equipped with an 'anti-balooning plate' so you don't waste your converter when that nitrous hits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chico,70'chev Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Thank you for the info. I really like the look of a wider tire in the rear.(12")The motors mild....for now.I need to get a digital camera soon so I can post pictures.I think Ur right about the 2500 stall.B&M will probably suffice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
420ponies Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Hi, Just a little advice. B&M makes a good converter,but some on this site had had some bad experiences with B&M.I prefer ATI converters for the street.Hughes Performance also makes a good street converter.Just remember, what they say the stall is doesn't mean that's where it is ,all depends on your set-up(cam/heads).Best to call and talk with them about it.I don't know how many times I've changed out converters trying to find the right setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dans '70 Z20 Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Some good companies to inquire: Coan Racing Art Carr Precision Industries Edge Everyone will make a recommendation and then decide what you want to do. Beware...many will automatically recommend a 9.5" (245mm) converter due to availability. They come in all 6 cyl FWD cars. May not be necessarily the best choice. The gentleman at Coan couldn't believe that is what was recommended for me. I need a 2600-2800 stall for 475hp/454. He said a 9.5" would run too hot and they he could not figure what they were going to do to get stall that low on a 9.5" converter. His recommendation was an 11" with 2600-2800 stall. Do your homework. It is a very important part of your driveline. Just my 2 cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 I agree with a 11", sounds like you don't need much over a stock stall, have to know cam specs @.050 and compression ratio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chico,70'chev Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 I'll contact some repituble company's (like mid west..)and let them crunch the numbers,Ur right,wouldn't hurt and it's free.I need to set up my computer better so I can download pic's,parts specs,etc.This build won't get completed till around 2011 anyway.Damn that B-word! (budget) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 take a look at Coan converters too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chico,70'chev Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Thanx, I will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 opinions are like Armpits.. everybody has 'em.. and they all stink my trans shop used a Daaco converter.. I'm guessing it's 11" lokos like the same size as a factory unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Burns Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 I saw another swipe at B&M, so I have to defend them- I've had a few different B&M converters in different cars- lots of horse power with lots of miles and plenty of abuse- never had a problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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