Take14theroad Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STR-PRSA05/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Take14theroad Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share Posted April 19, 2010 Shipping from strange is about 150, 105 from summit. It comes with a trac-lok for that price. I am really considering this over getting my 12 bolt rebuilt. The man at strange suggested I upgrade to a Truetrac for 299.50. I have a 406 making about 450 horse with a th350. I have never taken my car to the track, and do not plan on doing so often. Is the true truetrac upgrade necessary? Are there any cheap dics kits that would fit with this? They suggested a Wilwood kit that is 700 (slotted/vented with 4 piston floating calipers. I think that is overkill considering I still have stock brakes up front) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTSS454 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 How much for your used 12 bolt? I have never been able to break mine with my big block but it has a Moroso Brute Strength, Richmond Gears, and Strange axles in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 JMO but with your intended use and hp I would put half that money into good parts for your 12 bolt. Couple of things, they say it bolts right in and it probably will but be prepared for the possibility of longer/shorter width. Second, besides being heavier it takes more power to move all that big stuff, no need to give that up in your case....just my thoughts...Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 I have a 406 making about 450 horse with a th350. I have never taken my car to the track, and do not plan on doing so often. With that statement I would suggest getting smaller axles, the rearend you are looking at has 35 spline axles...that is huge, stock size is 30 spline. Maybe go up one size that's about it because bigger is not always better, it takes hp to spin huge axles...the weird part when I was reading the info on that rear was the 35 spline axles only had 7/16" studs, I would think they would at least have 1/2" studs. Whatever size axles you get stick with the stock 7/16" stud size. Originally Posted By: Take14theroad Is the true truetrac upgrade necessary? I was looking at the Truetrac a while back and from everything I have read on them they are a great unit...extremely smooth operation, no noise, and they can handle quite a bit of hp. I was just talking to Dave aka dbreese who just picked up a complete rearend with Truetrac unit...I'm waiting to hear his opinion on it when he gets it installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Take14theroad Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 I was all set to rebuild my 12 bolt, but as I am pricing it out the strange does not look much more expensive. I got quoted 1450 for a rebuild on mine today, including everything but axles. I had a leak around my axle recently, which I never really figured out before it went in for paint, so I might need new axles too. If it is going to be cheaper, I will definitely rebuild my 12 bolt. I don't know much about rear ends, but the point that having an overbuilt one will just be harder to move is very good. If it works out to about the same price either way, would it be better to get a new one and have my original 12 bolt to keep with the car or use for a future project? Joe I also just got my old vinyl top off, and there was NO RUST in the channel. Such a good day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTSS454 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 If it works out to about the same price either way, would it be better to get a new one and have my original 12 bolt to keep with the car or use for a future project? If it isn't good enough for your Monte then why would it be good enough for the next car or project? Not trying to be a smart azz just wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Take14theroad Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 That is a really good point. It still works fine, but now that I think about it, I can not think of a project that I would do that would use the rear end without getting it rebuilt. Looks like a rebuild for sure than. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Joe You might want to check out http://www.jdrace.com/ Jim is a member here and I am sure he could set up with either a complete rear end or help you with rebuilding yours.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTSS454 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Joe I have set up quite a few myself, if you were closer I would do it for you, but if you need help just shoot me a p.m. with any questions you might have. Here is a list of tools you will need. dial indicator to measure backlash micrometer to measure the carrier and pinion shims 1 1/8 inch 3/4 inch drive 6 point socket a long 3/4 inch breaker bar with a 3 foot cheater pipe to go over the end a 3 foot pipe wrench used to hold the yoke while tightening pinion nut to collapse the crush washer As you can see unless your going to do these on a regular basis it is cheaper to have a good shop do the set up if you don't have the tools already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 FASTSS454, have you seen the Richmond Gear pinion and bearing spacers, p/n RMG-040012S. They take the place of the crush sleeve. I have set a few rears up with these and they are great. And Joe, depending on your likes and dislikes in different areas of mechanics, GM 12 bolts can be fun to learn and work on. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Take14theroad Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 That is an option I never considered... If i don't have to pay a garage 500 for labor, I could use all new parts and still save money over a bolt in. I have access to an auto shop at the high school I graduated from. They have dial indicators and all the same tools a commercial shop does. I also have the combined knowledge of hundreds of people through this web page. If I do my research and am careful, Is there any reason my rear end should not go together smoothly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Joe, you could do it, however, I learned from a guy who had built them for 30 years so he was my manual for a couple builds. It is my opinion that it would be best if you could have someone on hand who knows this stuff and can help you. Like FASTSS454 said, If I was closer to you, I would enjoy showing you and helping you rebuild that beast. Two of the tools not listed earlier are some home made tools built specifically for this task. I have a 12 bolt rear housing with no axle tubes I use for a mock up. Also, I don't have a pic, but I made a tool from a cut off axle end with a T welded to it for setting up the carrier before it goes in to the rear. The tool helps turn the spider gears into place to achieve optimal clearance on the clutches. Never settle for a preloaded carrier. The man that taught me, showed me how to set a rear up so you don't need springs. It's a real pain but effective. Good luck and I hope you find someone who can help teach you the build. You will enjoy it - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winston Wolf Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 It's really not as tough as some people make it out to be. I just changed the gears in mine again last week. Took about 6 hours on jackstands. When you get new gears, they are pre-measured and marked which takes out alot of the guess work. You can use the measurements off your stock stuff and most likely get it right on the 1st try. There are really only 2 magor things to it, setting the correct pinion depth with shims and setting the backlash, again with shims. Save some money and give it a shot. There are some good tutorials on the web, and the instructions from Richmond are pretty good, plus I'm sure there are plenty of us on here that have done it a bunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTSS454 Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 72MC when did they start making those? They look like they would take all the work out of the job if you know what I mean. Thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 FASTSS454, not sure when they started making them but I noticed them about three years ago while surfing through Summits web site. Try em, you like em. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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