cpmman Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Do you need to lift the motor on a 1970 400/BB Monte to remove/replace the oil pan? Will it clear the crankshaft? What is required to remove it? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 yes you will have to lift it, and position the counterweights so the front ones are up, not a fun job in the chassis 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudax Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 I have had mine off like 3 or 4 times now with the engine still in the car. I didn't think about what Sam mentioned with the crank throws but I always had enough room to jack the engine up high enough to remove it. I would try Sam's suggestion before you try to remove it since it probably would be easier. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Droff Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Talk about a thread resurrection.... I have a '70 with a SB 350 in it and I've go an oil leak at the back somewhere, it's not on top as far as the valve covers and intake are concerned. I also checked the oil sending unit and it felt dry. I'm thinking either the rear main or the oil pan gasket, it's dripping from right around that area. I had planned on dropping the oil pan and changing the gasket as this sounded the least painful route for troubleshooting but now I'm not as sure. Do I need to raise the engine to get the pan to clear? Do I need to worry about the timing chain cover gasket/seal as well? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badddoin Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Do I need to raise the engine to get the pan to clear? Do I need to worry about the timing chain cover gasket/seal as well? Thanks. Yes. And yes. It can be a real PITA sometimes. Couple comments, for what it's worth. Consider using a one-piece, rubber gasket. It's a little easier to work with if you're laying under the car, are and they work better. I also remove the distributor cap before raising the motor to keep it from getting jammed into the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 The one piece oil pan gaskets are the greatest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Droff Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Not at all what I wanted to hear, but kind of expected. So I'll need a new gasket for the timing chain cover as well, to go with the oil pan gasket? I had planned on a 1 piece rubber gasket, I've read good reviews on them. So what are the counterweights? Although the engine isn't coming all the way out, I've pulled one engine in my life...... Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 When I changed my oil pan gasket my trans was already out (another project) but I only needed to lift the 350sb less than an inch. Also, put a socket on the front crank bolt so you can move the crank to get the counter-weights moved to the top and the pan will slide right out. Definitely use the Felpro one-piece gasket, clean your oil pan, might as well paint it also...............Here's a photo of mine after it was back in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Droff Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Thread restart again... The main bearing gasket change was overtaken by events and put on hold, but now back on. I have the pan off and the cap off the main bearing and can see the gasket. Any suggestions on how to get the old gasket slid out and the new on in? It's in there pretty tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Are you talking about the rope seal for the rear main bearing? Check the crank where the rope seal rubs against it, if it's worn, grooved or damaged (no longer flat) the replacement seal may still leak. I only did mine with the engine out of the car and the crank out, engine all apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Droff Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 The rear main seal, the 2-piece gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badddoin Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Some are rope, others rubber. You're suppose to be able to push one side up and grab the other end w\plyers or something (Good luck with that.). The last one I changed - and the motor was out of the car - I had to remove ALL the main caps, and pull the vrank down a little to get it to break free, then re-torque the caps. I don't know that I'd attempt that under the car, but maybe. If I was commited to trying that, if necessary, I'd first attempt to scrwe a sheet metal screw up into one end of the seal, being VERY MINDFUL of not letting it make contacr with the crank. Then I'd grab the screw with Vice Grips and pull gently, while pushing on the other end with some non-metal thing - maybe something like a pencil. When that didn't work, and it probably won't, I'd take the caps off. Remember to put a little silicone where the seal halves meet on reinstalation. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Droff Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Good luck. Thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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