dbreese Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 Since the new engine install my p/b worked ok. The engine really didn't pull enough vacuum for them to be optimal. I decided to convert to a manual setup. Bought a 1" bore master cylinder (Stainless Steel Brake Company aluminum body) along with the pushrod kit. Went to a local parts store and had some straight OEM line cut and flared with the correct fittings. Had a friend help. Right now I'm suffering from a case of vertigo so he worked under the dash and I worked under the hood which still messed with me some. Toughest part was getting the booster nuts off. Note to self (disconnect battery cables cause you can hit the horn relay) Removed the factory lines and bent the new lines starting at the combo valve. The lines were 24" in length and worked out just perfect with a nice radius bend. Bench bled the M/C and mounted it to the two factory studs. Connected the new lines to the M/C. My friend used the pushrod kit and adjusted it for correct pedal travel. Bled the system and now the brakes feel very solid and it takes just a little more leg pressure to make it stop. Also without the booster it really cleaned up the firewall and probably took another 15-20 lbs off of the car. I'll take pic's and post later on and will get some shots under the dash If my vertigo will let me. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 I hate booster nuts..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 yes they are a pain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cny first gen 71 Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 I was pulling a booster out of a customers car about 12 years ago and while under the dash fighting with it my coworker dropped a fire cracker right next to the car scared the crap out of me. But a couple years later I got even and were still friends to this day. Some times I miss working on them on a daily basis but this old body cant take it no more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 Let us know how the brakes work, I have been thinking about going that route. I hope your vertigo clears up, do you have any idea what is causing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 Brakes are good even with the stock calipers/rotors. Need to adjust the rear brakes out just a bit but pedal feel is good and solid. Been many years since I've driven a manual brake vehicle( 1977 Ford F-100)but it just takes a little more effort. I really like the m/c. SSBC(Stainless Steel Brake Company) aluminum body w/1" bore and weighs about 4 lbs. Heading to the track Sat for a bracket race. That will be a good test. As for the vertigo, I feel better today. First time I had it was about 3 years ago. Doc said it was triggered by a sinus issue. Same thing this time. It is bad when I first get up in the morning. It feels like I'm drunk. As I start to move around I feel better. Doesn't make me sick but does take away my appetite. It clears up in about 4-5 days. I know people that deal with on a daily bases. I couldn't imagine that. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72 LS5 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 I'm interested in your track results too. Are you able to lock up the wheels with this setup? Do you know if you can use a manual master with power booster? I've tried a manual disc/drum master too, but not with stock calipers. Nutshell version: put SSBC dual piston calipers on with power setup, car stopped worse, went to manual setup with SSBC calipers, still didn't stop, so I put it all back to stock and sent the SSBC calipers back. Still doesn't stop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 ours has never stopped either, no matter what cam has been in it....we just honk and wave for everyone to get out of the way...we get home faster that way.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 I'm interested in your track results too. Are you able to lock up the wheels with this setup? Do you know if you can use a manual master with power booster? I've tried a manual disc/drum master too, but not with stock calipers. Nutshell version: put SSBC dual piston calipers on with power setup, car stopped worse, went to manual setup with SSBC calipers, still didn't stop, so I put it all back to stock and sent the SSBC calipers back. Still doesn't stop! It did well at the track. Need to give it a little more rear brake ( They were adjusted just about all the way in ( easier on the burnout). Did you use a longer pushrod and move the clevis to the upper hole of the brake pedal lever? I ordered their pushrod kit and it made it super easy to get the adjustment I needed. The car won't quite lock the brakes up but it slows done in a big hurry when at speed. In normal in town driving it is fine. Panic stops are quick but no lock up With the back brakes adjusted out right and new line lock installed it will be good. As far as using a manual brake m/c with a booster. I don't know. As you already know the piston on the manual m/c has a much deeper recess to keep the pushrod from falling out. Hate to here that your conversion didn't work even with their calipers. I would have thought it would have worked fine. As long as I have this engine I'm staying with the manual brakes. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 ours has never stopped either, no matter what cam has been in it....we just honk and wave for everyone to get out of the way...we get home faster that way.... I thought about doing that but then decided against it. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72 LS5 Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Dave, I was so upset that those sweet [looking] SSBC calipers actually stopped worse than the stockers. When I put them on, I stupidly threw away my old calipers thinking I'd never go back. Then I got the manual booster from Master Power, and I had to grind the rod a bit for a perfect fit. I also moved up the mounting point on the brake pedal. I was getting the proper PSI at the caliper with the manual booster, but it still would not stop, and that's when I actually got my money back from SSBC. I may try the manual master again, but with the stock calipers after hearing its working for you. With my stock setup, the car brakes good from normal speeds and higer rpms, but not at speeds of 20 or so. I thought I'd have better brakes with the 502, but its the same as my 454. I also tried a vacuum pump. It was loud and ran a full 10 seconds after each pump of the brake. I took that off too. Now I just follow the car in front of me like I'm pulling 50' Hatteras Sport Fisherman. What pads are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Just the oem replacment premium pads from napa. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montique Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 can we see the finish product picture. i really need to go this route and plan on it in the next few months. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Sure, Gonna clean the car up for a local cruise-in so I'll snap some shots. Take care, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Here ya go!!! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montique Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 thanks looks good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TommyP Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70mcarlo Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Looks GREAT - nice job on those brake lines! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Nice install Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Thanks guys, Gotta do a little detailing and cleaning up the wiring and firewall. The lines were bent with a high tech tool. That would be my hands!! LOL May upgrade the rotors and calipers later on but for now she stops good. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 move the clevis to the upper hole of the brake pedal lever.. Dave, what upper hole, I only see one on mine...????? there is a bolt with a bracket attached about 1 1/2" up..is that what you're talking about?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Hey Dave, I'll look and see. IIRC there was nothing in the upper hole on mine. If your upper hole places the pushrod inline with the M/C then I think that it right. Does your bracket hold the brake light switch or is it just a stop for the brake pedal lever? I'll measure and make sure. Also try to snap some pictures for you. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 yes that hole would be more of a straight shot. It has a bolt and bracket, I'll have to look closer and see what its mission is....thanks Dave....Davey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 The bolt and bracket might be some sort of stop for the brake lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 The bolt and bracket might be some sort of stop for the brake lever. I was under the dash on the Honda today so I'll check it out tomorrow....this old body can only take so much... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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