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Im having traction issues!!


mnte496

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Just looking for some imput. I have a 71 and have a built 496 in it going to run 295 55 15 mt radials out back my current setup is obviously not going to work there 275 45 20 on it right now. i have 4.56 gears in the back is that to steep for a big block setup? im thinking of 3.93 or somewhere around there. any thoughts would be appreciated Thanks going to be a nice weekened to work on it been real cold here!!

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Welcome Josh,

 

Can you give a little more info on the front and rear suspension(shocks, springs, swaybar or anti rollbar stall converter rpm). That is a lot of gear. Do you have od trans? What does your car 60' at the track? I know it seems like a bunch of questions but I bet we can get it figured out. smile

 

David

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Haven't got to take it to the track with this motor yet, just got the car finished over this last summer and winter only driven it about 100 easy miles to break it in. Its got a tci competition 400 with a 3600 stall, and a hotchkis sport suspension package on it with edelbrock ias shocks. i was going for a real fast street/strip car then in the middle of the build went for a pro touring car. had a built 355 in it with a basically stock 350 tranny with a shift kit and got into the low 12's thats why i have the 4.56s in it. i cant get the motor up to 3000rpm 1/4 throttle without the thing sliding all over the place in any gear!

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Haven't got to take it to the track with this motor yet, just got the car finished over this last summer and winter only driven it about 100 easy miles to break it in. Its got a tci competition 400 with a 3600 stall, and a hotchkis sport suspension package on it with edelbrock ias shocks. i was going for a real fast street/strip car then in the middle of the build went for a pro touring car. had a built 355 in it with a basically stock 350 tranny with a shift kit and got into the low 12's thats why i have the 4.56s in it. i cant get the motor up to 3000rpm 1/4 throttle without the thing sliding all over the place in any gear!

 

With a street/strip car it is always a compromise. With the power your making and gear you have that thing won't hook on the street. I'm not really up on all the pro touring mods but I guess the ride is pretty tight and you don't have much free travel in the front. Weight transfer from the front to the rear on launch is crucial. Keeping the weight over the rear tires will aid in traction. Plus as mentioned above a set of M/T drag radials will also help. Your gear + the b/b is making a big torque multiplication at the rear tires. You might think about a gear change to something lower (numerically)B/B are not nearly as sensitive to gear as s/b because b/b make their torque down low in the rpm band. Torque is what gets the car moving. I think you are good with the converter stall.

 

Even my s/b won't hook on the street and it is set up to go in a straight line ( it will turn good but it is by no means a canyon carver) At the track it is fine. Just throwing some things out there.

 

I'm sure other will post up with more good advice.

 

Take care,

 

David

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I ordered some drag radials last night 295 55 15. going to put them on some rally rims hopefully that will help alot. I have cragar 20x8.5 with 275 45s on it and i think the rubber dosen't have a bite to it like a taller side wall does. My suspension is preety tight so weight transfer probably is an issue! going to how it does after the new tires then might change the shocks out thanks for the posts you guys got really good looking MCs im trying to figure out how to post a pic of mine no luck so far!

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With what you have if you are trying to hook up on the street you can forget it. You will always go up in smoke. On the strreet all you will do to a set of drag radials is chew them up. As stated if you really want a street/strip car you have to compromise and street traction for a well built BB will always lose off the line. I don't even try to hit my tires hard from a light, but let me hit them at a 40mph roll and I'm gone even with tire spin. I say just cruise on the street with regular tires and put your slicks on for track days.

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Don't shoot me, but if I lived in Nebraska (assuming wide open spaces), and I was leaning more towards pro touring like you said, I would lower the stall converter to like 2400, and put a 3.08 gear in there. 1st gear will still be almost useless, but at least you can enjoy the car on the street and highway. Plus, at higher speeds that Hotchkis suspension will shine. Drag Radials will wear out pretty quickly on the street, it's true. Who wants to have all that power and a cruising speed of 55 mph at 3000 rpms?

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Got my mt drag radials 295 55 15 today going to have em mounted tommorow hopefully they help a little i appreciate everyones retplies the only thing that sucks living where i do is the nearest track is 2-3 hours away and i dont have a trailer yet but been shopping for one once it stays nice out im going to take it to the dyno and have it tuned i will post the numbers when i get it done thanks again to everyone ive received alot of helpfull advice on this website wish i would have joined sooner ive owned mine for 15 years always been a monte nut!

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Thanks, i still have my other set of rims and tires also they have pirelli pzeros on them which im going to use for most of my driving and i can already tell they can hold the corners pretty well just no throttle that's probably because of my gears i have now ive decided to get some 3.73s but im going to try to see what its going to do with the 4.56s for fun soon as the mts are on ive never gotten the motor over 3100rpm yet!

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Just remember that drag radials are for straight line traction. They are not made for corners.

 

Mike, at 32 pounds of pressure you will hardly notice you are wearing a set of stickies out back. But then again, I am the weirdo that can cut a 1.41 60 foot on 22 pounds of pressure.

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Just got them mounted and they look good no clearance issues i can tell right now. what kind of tire pressure should i run with these the shop only put 10psi in them now. i noticed my rear end is not perfectly centered thers a 1/4 difference from one side to the other from the sidewall to whell well lip going to look at the body bushings tonight to see if they worn a bit.

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Thats good to know! i cant remember what it was before i had the rear end out when i painted the under carriage so im not sure if i got it back in there exactly the way it was with changing out the upper and lower control arms it kind of drives me nuts though i can tell by looking at each side of the car how the tire is sitting in the wheel well with my other rims and tires you really cant tell

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Just remember that drag radials are for straight line traction. They are not made for corners.

 

Unless you get a performance DOT slick like Nitto 555, Nitto 555R, Toyo Proxes TQ, BFG G-Force TQ, Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial II or others. I do not believe they are offered in 15" though. From memory they come in sizes 17" and up. With them though you get a softer, stickier compound and a stiffer sidewall. It still wont give the traction of a true (straight line) slick because it will not squat like a full race slick. However if you have a moderate built street car they should provide adequate traction I would think.

 

Monteman71 uses the Mickey Thompson ET Street II's on his 600hp Monte with stock suspension (except solid lower trailing arms) running 11.44 with a 3:31 rear gear and has no traction issues at the track. On the street, well.....thats a different story.

 

Dan

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I have ET Streets on five cars. Around town I like between 32-35. ALWAYS avoid rain at all cost. At the track I usually play in the 19-22 pound range deepending on weather, track prep, and of course, the alignment of the moon and stars.

 

Like I said earlier, around town normal pressures lead to normal driving. But wet weather? Nitto 555Rs are the only D compound street sticky that won't leave you sideways. There is just not enough cuts in the tread on Mickeys to safely drive in the rain.

 

The biggest thing to remember is every car reacts different so you have to play around with what you are doing. I had a guy once tell me that 10 pounds is all he ever runs on his ET Streets. At 133 in the Malibu I though I was going to lose control after gently getting out of the throttle end of run.Back to 20 pounds. Take everything as a baseline and work it from there. No drag radial is going to handle like a G Force TA.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the mickies on and took her out for a ride and its night and day with these tires i still have some wheel spin but am able to come out of it and feels alot safer not like the perellis which were like driving on ice. plus the car rides alot better with more side wall to help cushion the bumps. Going to take it to the dyno next week thave it tuned in then hopefully make to the track thanks for all the replies!

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  • 3 weeks later...
Just looking for some imput. I have a 71 and have a built 496 in it going to run 295 55 15 mt radials out back my current setup is obviously not going to work there 275 45 20 on it right now. i have 4.56 gears in the back is that to steep for a big block setup? im thinking of 3.93 or somewhere around there. any thoughts would be appreciated Thanks going to be a nice weekend to work on it been real cold here!!

 

I've run MT Drag Radials on two different cars over the last few years. I personally don't like the feeling of the tires much below about 15psi. I've never liked the feeling of full on slicks as it feels like the car is wallowing around at 140mph and it's not comfortable to me. For me the sweet spot for that tire has been between 16 and 20 psi depending on the car.

 

On something as heavy as the Monte I'd start at 20psi and see how she hooks and go down from there. I've also never had a major problem getting the tire to hook on the street. You will need to do a healthy burnout when you first get them but after that they stick like glue if the roads even remotely warm.

 

I have to find it but somewhere I have a video a buddy of mine shot on his phone. I foot braked the Cutlass and let it fly. The tires spun about 5 or 6 feet then dead hooked and pulled the left front about 6 inches off the ground.

 

I know it's too late now but for your next set of tires take a look at the Hoosier radials. I made the switch this season and they seem to be a much stickier tire. I'm currently running 22lbs in them and they hook great with just a little rotation. I wouldn't even call it spinning.

I'm sold and not going back to the MT's

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