keith72monte Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Hey fellow members. I am interested in putting rear disk brakes .i see where right stuff setup moves the wheel out 1/8 th inch.Does anyone have a differnt setup and does all rear disk aftermarket setup move the wheel outward.I am leaning toward the oem brakes off a 88 trans am or s-10. It would be easier to buy a kit,but if i can avoid the outward movement to make sure i have tire clearance. I don't want rubbing issues either.I have 275/60-15 tires and 15x8 rallys with 5 inch backspace.My rear is out of car now, so i wanna do something before i put fluid in rear and install.Help a confused member out lol. i have heard of issues with ccp and right stuff as far as the axle plates moving around when adjusting e brakes.willwood brakes are alittle too much money for me, my car is just a crusier show car, but i want better brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 IIRC some people fix that outward movement of the wheel by cutting the axle tube by the same. There may be other kits that do not offset anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Keith check with stainless steel breaks all three of our classic have their setup on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobsmc Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 i used the s-10 set up and love it! cheap and easy. bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 I haven't done this mod yet, but I'm just thinking: doesn't the increase in width come from the thickness of the rotor itself? I know a brake drum is surprisingly thin where it gets sandwiched between the wheel and axle flange, while a disk rotor has more meat to it in that area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobsmc Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 if used with stock axles there would be no difference that i can see.the blazer set up i used bolted right to the axle tube on the housing ,just like the backing plate did . Â i have a complete extra set of everything you would need to do it,if someonwe wants to purchase a set.fyi. bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith72monte Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 bob how does the e-brake hook up on the s-10 setup? does the caliper sit towrds the front or back or rotor? any know if there is a advantage if the caliper is forward or towards rear? i,m thinking that would make a deffernce on the e-brake hooking up better or worse. i,ll send you a pm bob on your parts once i understand what is best and needs to be done. thanks for the feedback guys, feels good when i know i can rely on people who have been through this already. i just want improved brakes.not racing on a track, but nice to have better brakes when your going fast lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slaman Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 IIRC when I did the rear brakes on my daughters Blazer the parking brake is like a drum brake inside the "hat" section of the rotor. Bob please correct me if I'm wrong. I too have considered the S-10/Blazer swap on mine in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobsmc Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 not sure what the difference is with the caliper on the front or rear of the axle centerline. Â the trucks and blazers use both set ups. Â yes the ebrake is inside the hat of the rotor ,making for a cleaner look. i think there may be some pics of mine in the gallery. bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue502 Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 I am no brake expert,but you may want to discuss this with an expert.I know that on most cars the front brakes do about 75% of the braking.I think I would want to make sure my front brakes were giving 100% before I started upgrading the rears.Obviously the FGMC is front heavy and the rear is light/lighter.I would start by doing a couple of baseline stops just for comparison sake.I would find a quiet low traffic road that was at least 4 lanes or more and do some panic stops at different speeds.Since you won't be doing any road racing I would drive around after a couple of stops to cool the brakes off in between. I would think that if you can't lock up the front brakes then you are not getting your max out of the fronts.If so I would think about better front pads or even larger rotors and dual piston calipers,if you can get them to fit your size wheels. The next area I would consider is pedal pressure.I have no idea here but I do know some people who have upgraded to a Hydro boost system and they said it was a major difference. Once you get all that sorted out you may consider larger drums for the back and softer shoes.When I raced GNs we would use a wheel cylinders from a non power brake S10.They put out the most pressure compared to stock.We then bought 2 sets of shoes and used the 4 longer shoes to make one set.This gave you a little more surface area then the standard set of shoes.We did all this to give the rear drums more braking power to hold boost on the line.The rears would grip so well that you would need an adjustable proportioning valve to equalize the front and rears for the street.You don't want to lock the rears at high speed as you can easily loose control.Just something to consider.Like I said I am no expert so be carefull,especially in the rain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith72monte Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Hey if anyone wants to put 1998 and up s10 brakes on your monte, Rock auto has the axle plates new for 150 pr, A-1 cardone remand calipers with brackets and hardware for 80 bucks.I couldn't find axle plates or caliper brackets on ebay. wish i found out rock auto had them before i bought ones from a junkyard that need hot tanking and bead blasting before i can paint and install them. I think right stuff is chinese parts and want gm parts on my car, but then again gm parts might be made in china too. i know ac delco has parts made in china , like wiper motors and ac parts.Save your money and buy willwood or bear brakes for 600.Atleast you know your getting quality and not some junk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRDIRT11 Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 I got all the stuff to do mine from a s10. I bought a low milage rearend so the parts are in good condition. I need to get this stuff installed. Thats the way its been with my car. buy a bunch of stuf and not getting around to installing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Packratt Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 You can use the plates from the blazer rear end but you need half inch spacers. The blazer my setup came from had the calipers mounted to the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Packratt Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Joseph we are in the same boat,LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobsmc Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 u dont need any spacers on my set up the rotors are off a 2door 2 wheel drive if i remember correct there is several different set ups with different ofsets on the rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobsmc Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 http://www.firstgenmc.com/ubbthreads/ubb...1809#Post341809 Â this thread i believe has the specifics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gprimm Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Bob, did you say hadthe parts to do the rear disc conversion? Might be interested. George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith72monte Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 Well after weeks of looking over all the options.S-10 option looked good at first, but then i didn;t want junk yard parts on my nice car,but if your car is all rusty underneath, then i guess it will match,if you want to get used rusty parts,make sure you get a tetanus shot before handleing someone elses rust junk. Don;t bother buying used axle plates when rockauto sells them new for $150 a pair.Buying new parts came out to over 325. piecing missing parts together and just feeling like its a half mass way of doing a job right.After i,m into something for 325+, i want to know i,m going to have a correct setup. I see a few companies that offer USA made parts.1) moser axle offers two rear disk kits,both single piston calipers, one with out the parking brake for 360.00. other kit has parking brake and cleaner looking axle plates for 460.00.Next i found baer brakes offer a kit for 595.00 with slotted rotor and single piston caliper.Another company is inline tube kit that is single piston caliper and cost is 600.00. Last setup is willwood.Wilwood offers a 4 piston caliper and internal parking brake built into the axle plate cost is 650.00 on summit racing.Now lets give this some serious , life or death thoughts. Are we all doing the speed limits with our classic v-8 , heavy metal tanks?Answer: Not. Now do we want to put our lives in the hands of a sweat shop built 349.00 china made brakes? Answer? your pick. I have $10,000 in my car. I,m not cutting corners with china made brakes. I don't race my car on a track, but i like to make a dent under the gas petal in my floorpan once and awhile.So why jerk around with brakes.I am either going with moser $460.00 kit or wilwood.Once i start looking at over 500 bucks for rear disk,i am going to have to go with a 4 piston caliper.One last thought to put in everyones head.I spoke to a race instrutor recently. He told me in the last ten years of being at the road course tracks, he has only seen two deaths on the track.He said both wrecks we're in the first turn and the front rotors failed.I looked on corvette forum and seen guys talking about buying 35 dollar rotors cause they go through rotors on a weekend.Not alot of rotor failures are happening ofcourse,but i would want the best rotor if i am doing 100+ through a turn.OK so does that cover rear disk brakes 101.Everone has dumped tons of money in their car on here, so put the best USA made brakes you can buy. I know about china rotors and how they have taken over the market,But damn people, don't put china crap on your classic all american made car.You have a option to not buy china junk.Either keep your drums on the rear, or buy top quality rear disk brakes.Thanks for everyones input on this. My lesson has been learned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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