Power Windows and Locks - Got 'er done!

[MCfan]

I finally completed a week-long project of installing power windows and power door locks in my ’70 4-speed Monte. I took my time, learned a lot, took lots of pictures and am very pleased with the results. From the perspective of a novice car hobbyist/mechanic, this is no slam-dunk project, but it is certainly doable with common tools, adequate time and patience.

 

My primary objective was to make this car more “user-friendly” for my wife and myself because when we are in Florida during the winters we drive it frequently for errands, going out to dinner and occasionally just cruising. Rolling up the manual windows and locking or unlocking the car for each other at every stop was an unnecessary inconvenience. Our first new 1970 Monte had power everything and our SS Monte has power windows so we knew this car could be improved.

 

Thanks to Rainer (Malibu 400) for the complete power window set up and instruction documents (without which I would have been completely lost) and to Doug (FOUROHTOO) for the power door lock set up. BTW, neither system was specifically for a 1970 Monte Carlo but were ‘71/’72 vintages. The only visible difference is square versus rounded corners on the door mounted switches. I was more interested in functionality than originality and I can easily replace the switches with the rounded corner variety if I ever decide to (not likely).

 

I took lots of pictures but my computer is still in the Geek Squad hospital so no sharing yet. I hope to create one or more project photo journals and have been thinking about a way to organize the project topics/phases. Just to give some idea of the scope and content of this project, I have included a preliminary outline below. All 15 of these areas must be included if your car currently has no power accessories in the cockpit and/or doors. If you have any power accessories already in the doors, some areas can be eliminated. Here’s the preliminary project outline:

 

Power Window and Power Door Lock Installation

 

I. Planning and Preparation

II. Acquiring Regulators, Solenoids, Wiring Harnesses and Switches

III. Testing and Refurbishing Used Parts

IV. Removing the Dash Pad, Seats, Door Panels and Carpet (if necessary)

V. Importing 30 A Main Power to the Cockpit

VI. Removing and Re-hanging Doors

VII. Cutting Wire Routing Holes

VIII. Removing Manual Window Regulators

IX. Installing Power Window Regulators

X. Installing Door Lock Solenoids

XI. Installing Wiring Harnesses and Switches

XII. Connecting and Testing the System(s)

XIII. Modifying Door Panels

XIV. Replacing Dash Pad, Seats, Door Panels and Carpet (if necessary)

XV. Final System Test and Troubleshooting

 

I’d be happy to visit with anyone who is considering such a project for their first gen Monte – just sent me a PM.

[Mo's70MCs]

I can't wait to see the project photo journal. Nothing like a step by step instructional, specially for those of us that have the exact project which still sits on the back burner. I have many questions..specially in the way of making the large boot holes on the doors? I've always thought it can be accomplished without removing the doors. The other puzzle lies in the harness, can you still use the standard fuse block or does it get replaced? Never mind I finally read through the sequence you posted.

[MGD72Monte]

Wow, congrats on finishing an ambitious project in a short time for someone that has never done it.

 

I already have power windows but power locks would be a convenient option. I wonder if anyone has managed to set that up with a key fob?

[MCfan]

I already have power windows but power locks would be a convenient option. I wonder if anyone has managed to set that up with a key fob?

 

Installing factory power door locks in a Monte that already has power windows should be much quicker and easier. I would do it in a heartbeat on my SS car except I want to keep it completely original (matching its Build Sheet) for now.

 

For starters, you aready have a main power tap and fuse in the factory fuse block so no power importing. Also, you aready have a wiring path to the doors so no door removal or hole cutting is required. Since no wiring runs to the back seat area, the driver's seat and carpet are undisturbed.

 

All that would be required is removing and modifying the door panels and removing the dash pad. However, unless you have exactly matching year/model-specific solenoids, you can spend a lot of time figuring out the proper mounting location and fabricating custom-length linkage rods (ask me how I know). There are lots of different A-body solenoids that look and work the same but they have different mounting brackets and hole locations. BTW, the original factory hole locations are clearly marked with three dimples on the lower rear face of each door.

 

I, too, have wondered about adding a key fob acuator to a factory system. I haven't researched it yet, but I'll bet it is possible and not too difficult nor expensive to do. All that should be required is to insert a wireless receiver/switch into the circuit with one or more key fob transmitters. There are possibly complete aftermarket systems available that could be adapted/installed, also. I'll bet that some of our more creative and proactive members have already done it so maybe they'll tell us how.

[flipper]

Dennis, Awesome job! I bet that was one tough project. Can't wait to read the journal. If i need to have them installed in my MC i would pay for your time and help!

[MC-71]

Rod, You are a electrician? Right? Doing the holes in the cowl and doors for the wire harness and boot should be tryed this way first. Very small angle drill and a hole knock out dye. I did mine when I restored my Monte when the doors were off. I have always thought this other way would work. Granted, not good for the beginner but if you have all the tools I think it could be done. We all know about the punch marks. I also think it could be done from the inside.Put the thinking cap on and let us know what you think.I know you are good with posting pictures. Maybe you can show the members what a knock out looks like. Also there are these real tiny air angle drills.

[MC-71]

I have this kit #MN-200 Keyless Entry System. Bought it on ebay last year. Have not installed it yet. Sorry. I don't believe it is too hard. My whole inside is apart and should be getting to it soon. I just opened the box and found the sellers address.

 

Classis Tech

260 S Hibbert

Mesa, AZ. 85210

480-668-5448

[MCfan]

I have many questions..specially in the way of making the large boot holes on the doors? I've always thought it can be accomplished without removing the doors. The other puzzle lies in the harness, can you still use the standard fuse block or does it get replaced?

 

Rod, regarding making the large holes in the door (2" dia) and cowl (2 3/8" dia), I suppose Houdini with a surgical laser might be able to do it without removing the doors. I used a metal hole saw AFTER removing the doors. There simply is not enough room to use that technique with the doors on, reardless of which direction you come at it. The small access holes in the door do not allow you to reach that area from the inside and even if you remove the driver's kick panel (next to impossible on a non-AC Astro Vent car like mine), you don't have access to that position on the cowl from the inside, either. Strangely, the power window relay mounts inside that space and it is difficult enough to reach (hope I never have to replace it!).

 

I can see that the alternative approach Carl suggested for actually cutting the holes would also work (I've used one of those tools to cut knockout holes in electrical boxes), but I doubt that it could be done with the doors on for the same access limitations mentioned above.

 

But wait, taking the doors off and rehanging them is NOT such a bid deal. I was extremely nervous about it, having never done it before, but it's not so bad. There are a couple of important preparations steps: 1. If you care about your paint job (as most of us do), be sure to completely mask the door edges and the opposing edge of the front quarter. 2. Use a fine-point Sharpie marker and trace the edge of both hinges where they mate to the door. You can align the door to these marks when you re-hang it and it will close just like it did before (assuming that's what you want, of course). 3. Place a floor jack under the middle of the door and raise it to just barely lift the door (if you sit on the seat or floor (seat removed) while you unbolt the hinges, there will be some upward pressure on the door hinge because of your weight on the car, so don't be surprised when the last bolt comes loose). 4. Have another person standing on the outside of the door to steady the door on the jack. I used my wife for this (made her nervous, too!) When the last bolt is out, carefully pull the jack away from the car with the door still on it so nothing collides when you lift the door off the jack. I found it easier to handle the door with the glass down inside.

 

Now you have great access to cut the holes in the door and cowl, respectively, whatever method you want to use. I found a 2 3/8" Milwaukee hole saw at Home Depot that is the perfect diameter for the cowl end of the accordian grommet. Don't be in a rush to rehang the doors because there is a lot you can and should do while they are off. I actually placed the driver's door up on my Workmate (with two heavy blankets between to protect the paint) and did the regulator swap and testing that way. Note: I do NOT recommend installing the power lock solenoids with the door in a horizontal orientation as you need gravity to help you position it correctly in a very tight space.

 

All of the power importation, fuse panel wiring and wiring harness installation in and under the dash is easier done with the doors off and the front bench or driver's bucket out, also.

 

Rehanging the doors is a bit trickier proposition. I got my son-in-law to help with this task (not wishing to end my marriage just yet). Before placing the door back on the jack, be sure one end of the accordian grommet is mounted to either the door or the cowl (best) with the wiring harness sticking through it. Roll the jack and door into a position close enough to feed the wires into the other structure (door or cowl) and then even closer to seat the boot and start the hinge bolts. The adjusting plate in the door has conveniently dropped down by now so you have to reach inside the door to position it for the first and second bolts. Take up the slack on the bolts, align the hinges to the tracing marks on the door and snug up one bolt. Do the same on the other hinge and then tighten all the bolts, checking to see that you are still aligned with the tracing marks. Now it's just a matter of connecting the door and dash harnesses together and putting the interior back together.

Simple, huh?

 

Regarding the fuse block, I don't doubt that you could get a fuse block from a salvaged Monte that had power accessories and swap it out, but I am not that much of a purist, at least for this car. I (foolishly) took fuse block loose from the firewall, thinking I would add the missing main power tap and fuse in their standard location. I suppose it could be done, but I could not find aftermarket parts that fit the old-style fuse block. It was much easier to just buy a small accessory fuse block with six 30 A power tabs and modern pluggable fuses and bring a dedicate 10 AWG wire direct from a positive terminal battery tap through the firewall (new hole and grommet) close to the factory fuse block. I mounted the new fuse block to the forward edge of the lower dash housing (just right of the park brake release handle). There was already an ignition kill switch mounted in that area so it fit right in and is much more accessible for changing fuses, if necessary. Actually, I have a 30 A auto resetting circuit breaker for the power windows and a 20 A circuit breaker for the door locks.

 

Like most projects, after you've done it "once in a row", the mystery and worry subside because you know several ways that won't work and at least one that will. I think pictures will be helpful but it will be at least a month before I can reload my camera software (in storage in Wichita right now), assuming the Geek Squad didn't completely destroy my computer by reloading the operating system.

[70 Iron]

That was a great job you did Dennis ! I'm really impressed with your method and details. Kudos for you not allowing fear stand in your way .

I had the complete setup PW /PL from a 70 SS that I pulled out of a prts only Monte several yrs ago and logged all the info expecting to install them in my then 71 402 triple blk but sold the monte before I tried.then I sold the setup,I wish I would of kept them because my Misty Turquiose Monte doesn't have them but the Astro Blue does. They do make life easier and a very nice option as well.Again Hats off to you.

This could lead you into a second job the way its sounding .

Jealous but impressed,

 

Terry

[Mo's70MCs]

exactly the type of info I was after..very detailed for one and it gives me great encouragement. Also I better not tempt fate, I gotta follow Murphy's Law here. I was lazy about removing and possibly damaging the paint on the doors. Dennis, thanks for sharing and taking the time on the write-up.

[MGD72Monte]

Great details Dennis, thanks for taking the time to focus on the power lock portion. I'll have to book mark this for when I have time.

[Malibu 400]

Thanks for taking time to share your experience, Dennis. I'm glad all worked out well for you. That's not surprising given that you appear to be a very detail-oriented person!

[overdrive]

Congratulations for having the courage to take on the project and also for sticking with it and completing it. You did a job to be proud of.

 

Dan

[Murphy]

Great detail Dennis! I'll be driving my Monte over next week for you to do it again...........just kidding, April Fools Day. Where did you get the additional fuse block? And secondly, the power feed for that block you mentioned tapping in to the battery feed...where precisely?

[John Burns]

For punching those holes... would a Greenlee Punch work?

[Mr70Monte]

I used a greenlee hydraulic knockout when I did mine years ago, it did a much smoother job than a holesaw, also alot smoother edge.

[MCfan]

Where did you get the additional fuse block? And secondly, the power feed for that block you mentioned tapping in to the battery feed...where precisely?

 

I picked up the expansion fuse panel at Advance Auto for around $13. It is made by Buss Fuses Cat. No. BP/15600-06-20. It has six power taps, each rated up to 30 Amps and individually fuses with the modern style fuses or circuit breakers. This is how mine looks already installed under the dash (camera is looking up).

 

 

The 10 AWG wire at the top come directly from a power tap on the positive side post of the battery. The power windows are plugged into one side and the locks into the other, each with 30 A fuses (in this photo).

 

Here's a photo of my factory fuse panel.

 

 

The blank spots in the upper left of the panel are for a main power lug (right hole) and main fuse (left and center hole) which are both missing because my car was built without power options. I may not have looked hard enough or long enough, but I couldn't come up with original or OEM parts that fit the factory panel. Also, I couldn't find a dedicated power wire coming into panel from the matching wire harness plug at the firewall. So, I decided to run a new dedicated main power line direct from the battery, following the wire harness under the radiator support toward the horn relay, bypassing the relay and continuing up the left fender to the firewall and through the firewall (new hole and grommet) beside the factory fuse panel.

 

I used a Side Mount Battery Tap/Ground Kit by Battery Doctor, also from Advance Auto. Here's a shot of the battery tap and the final connection.

 

 

 

Here are a couple of shots of the power line (black wire running across the photo bypassing the horn relay) routing to and through the firewall. Note the factory wire harness plug to the fuse panel in the lower left of the photo.

 

 

 

I connected the pink wire from the power window relay to the IGN (ignition) tab on the factory panel so the windows only work when the ignition is on. I is too risky to have them live all the time, but you can easily do that by connecting the pink wire to the BAT (battery) tab on the factory fuse panel.

 

 

BTW, since the BAT tab is fused at 20 A from the factory, you cannot run the power windows directly from that tab (ask me how I know).

 

There are probably lots of cooler ways to do all of the above, but this worked for me. Sorry for the long reply - hope it helps.

[Murphy]

Outstanding Dennis! This info/pics are great, as always....

[John Burns]

I used a greenlee hydraulic knockout when I did mine years ago, it did a much smoother job than a holesaw, also alot smoother edge.

 

Do you remember- did you have to remove the doors?

[John Burns]

Dennis- nice job for tackling this! Do you have pix of the installed power window regulators?

 

Do you like how the windows work? I would definitely look into installing relays for the window power!

[MCfan]

Do you have pix of the installed power window regulators?

 

Do you like how the windows work?

 

Second question first... I LOVE how these windows work! I reworked the factory power windows on my SS Car but these work even faster! The ONLY problem I am still dealing with is one position on the master switch (raising the passenger window from the driver's master switch), but I am sure I can solve it by reworking or replacing the switch (you can take the switches apart but it is somewhat risky).

 

Now the first question .... Yes, I managed to get pictures off my camera onto my computer, but I don't know when I'll have time to organize them into a project photo journal. I will attach a few pictures of the power regulator installation process to this reply but can provide others if/when you need them.

 

First, it is much easier to remove the manual regulators than to install the power regulators. Second, it is much easier to swap the rear window regulators than the door window regulators. Third, I found it actually easier to swap the door window regulator with the door still on the car (I did the driver's door when it was off the car for the hole drilling. I had it laying horizontal on a padded Workmate.) because it seems that gravity helps pull the power regulator into place. Either way works, however.

 

When you look at the access holes in the doors, you wonder how in the world you can remove and install the regulators at all. Well, it's trick, but possible. There is only one oddly-shaped hole that can be used, of course. Note: you do NOT have to remove the glass or the track it runs on, however, the window glass MUST be in up position. Be sure to secure the window in the up position before removing the manual regulator. I used a small vice grip on the door window track and masking tape on the rear windows.

 

I will break this into two reply posts: the rear windows are below and the door windows are in a following post.

 

 

Here's a shot of the two 5/16" lower mounting holes you must drill (at dimpled locations) BEFORE installing the power regulator.

 

 

 

Here's a shot of the 1 1/8" hole you must drill (at the dimpled location) for the wiring harnes grommet.

 

 

 

Here's a shot of a rear power regulator going in. Note: I loosened the upper and lower adjustment bolts of the window track and flexed it over (normal adjustment room) to get the power regulators in. You do not have to remove the bolts or the track, however.

 

 

 

Note how the actuator arm is in the fully raised position (see below). You MUST be able to adjust the position of this arm DURING the installation, meaning you must have a 12V DC power source (I used a spare boat battery) with the proper leads and clips to carefully run the regulator motor the proper direction to reposition the actuator arm as necessary.

 

 

 

BEFORE you bolt the power regulator into position, you must lower the window enough to slide the actuator guide wheel into its track. Obviously, it is easier to grease all of the tracks, wheels and pivot points before installing the power regulator.

 

 

Here's a shot of the passenger side rear window installation with the power regulator installed and the wiring harness in place ready for final testing.

 

 

 

See the next post for shots of the door window installation.

[MCfan]

Doing the door windows is the same process, BUT I found I had to move the actuator arm (by applying 12V power to the motor) several times while installing it through the door access opening, starting with the arm in the full up position and gradually lowering it as the motor part of the regulator was lowered further into the door. Just take your time, use small adustments and pay close attention to wherever the contact points or restirctions are at the moment. Like I said, it doesn't look possible with the glass and track in place, but it IS!

 

Here are some shots of the door installation in the horizontal position. Note the masking tape on the sharp edges of the door access openings. If you happen to enjoy the sight of blood on your arms and hands, you can skip this step. After unbolting and removing the manual regulator through the largest access hole, position the power regulator over its mounting holes (already in the door) so you know what position you must achieve.

 

 

Note that the actuator arm (in Photo above) is in the window DOWN position and MUST be repositioned (by applying a 12V source to the correct motor leads) to the window UP position before installing into the door. You will then gradually lower the arm as the installation proceeds. Be aware the the motor leads only take positive power (one for each direction UP or DOWN) while the frame is always the negative/ground (see photo below). Obviously, you should only connect the positive lead to ONE of the motor leads at a time (either up or down) and then touch the negative lead ONLY to the frame to momentarily power the motor and move the actuator arm.

 

 

 

The motor end goes in first ....

 

 

 

Followed by the main regulator body ....

 

 

Rotating the body down and in ....

 

 

 

Followed by the actuator arm ...

 

 

Lower the window a bit and insert the guide wheel into the track ....

 

 

Then bolt the power unit into place and attach the wiring harness. Here's the driver's door back on the car with the power regulator and power lock both installed and the wiring harnesses being attached (after pulling them into the door and attaching the accordian grommet between the door and cowl).

 

 

Here's a shot of the passenger door with the wiring hanesses secured in place and the door ready for switches and final testing before re-installing the door panels.

 

 

I realize this is more than you probably wanted to see, but photos of the installation process are probably more helpful than pictures of the final result. Let me know if I can answer any other questions. It will be awhile before the project photo journal is available.

[Mo's70MCs]

Nice! Well done very informative great bird's eye view. The skipping the taping suggestion, a classic!

[flipper]

Dennis,

Wonderful thread. You are a Jedi Master of PW installation!

[Mo's70MCs]

Come to think of it? Probably a good piece to keep in the tech archives. It's well written with lots of pictures. I know I have benefited from it already. Thanks! Dennis.