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Crush sleeve isn't crushing?


domonte

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I'm currently building a 12 bolt rear for the monte, when I went to install the crush sleeve ( everything is ready ); exept for the *^%& crush sleeve. I can't for the life of me seem to get it to start crushing. I mean, I know I put every ounce of muscle I had into it with 4 foot cheater bars no less. I'm a younger guy and this is my first time doin this. I'm sure you guys know though. Any advice? thanks -Adam.

 

p.s. i have an inch pound torque wrench and have been measuring the pinion after every attempt, I can't seem to get it over 5 inch pounds, it needs to be at around 25. ...?

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I got my 10 bolt done with a 1/2" drive 18" breaker bar with a 24" pipe as an extension. I had to try numerous set ups to get some crush going. The set up that worked was to position the housing as it would sit in the car but on axle stands. The flange was prevented from turning by a home made flage holder with 24" long handle. The handle was resting on the ground so I did no have to hold it. The breaker bar assembly was set up on the pinion nut. With the bar slightly over the horizontal and with my left hand I was able to press down using my weight and gravity. My right hand was holding the housing to prevent it from jumping off the axle stands and as others have said check the torque often so you don't go over.

 

Good luck!

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Got it thanks guys,It's a beauty too. works like a charm so far, now just need to install. does anyone know the kind of break-in process new 3.08 gears need before they're good to go?

 

P.S. Thanks to all the knights here for lending aid smile

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My gear set was used so no extensive break in process was required, I just took it easy, but my book says that new gear sets with new bearings can generate an excessive amount of heat especially if it has a high ratio. It says that the gear manufacturer should recommend an oil type, be careful not to subject the transmission to full-throttle or aggressive acceleration for the first 500 miles. It also stresses that the first 100 miles are the most critical and therefore to keep the speed below 60 mph for the first 10 to 15 miles then let the axle cool for at least 30 mins, repeat this process until you reach 100 miles. Then it says to change the oil when you get to the first 500 miles to get rid of any metal debris from the break in process and to get rid of the break in phosphate coatings in the lube.

 

I'm sure others with personal experience with new sets will chime in.

 

Good luck

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That's a good question and that's why it's good to have others with experience chime in. The info is from the book Drivelines book link which I used to rebuild my differential. In fairness the author does go on to say that his recommendations on break in may seem extreme to some but those are his recommendations for a long life, trouble free differential. I find in general these types of do-it-yourself books often provide more labour intensive processes, possibly because their audience did the work themselves and are willing to go the extra mile for that extra assurance that their hard work doesn't go to waste. I think his advice is also more focused on very high ratio sets which are not common on most cars you buy off the lot. However, some of his advice is consistent with general new car break in procedures in terms of top speed and taking it easy, something which some would not think of doing if they just rebuilt the diff and not the rest of the powertrain. The rest of the recommendations I think are just going that extra mile which the average new car buyer would not put up with.

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I suppose a 3.08 gear ratio would be considered a high ratio set wouldn't it? so taking it easy for..... frown one hundred miles............. Omg that's disapointing lol. Thanks though I'll be sure and change the lube smile.

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I never did any break-in on any of the ones I built. Not even under warranty. I've always ran it like you stole it. That will break it in! lol

 

That's kind of what I thought. Break it in= break it or it's in grin

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