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Motor build for my 70 Monte


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Well I'm going to start building a motor for this car. So this is what I'm working with.

1st I have a newer ZL1 Aluminum block fully studed with ARP studs

2nd a set of Pro-Filer Sniper 24° heads with Stainless valves, CNC ported and have been sent to Steve Schmidt for more work.

3rd Pro-Filer snyper Jr intake that has been match ported

4th going with a Callies crank 4.25 stroke

5th Earl's rods and probably Callies pistons

I will do a roller cam probably from Comp

and that should put me at about 482 CID.

Hows that sound?

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Sounds like a killer build!

Comp did a custom solid roller for me, it was ok. I had Cris Straub do me another cam extremely happy with it.

I think Callies just resells JE, SRP, and Mahle, I would go right to the manufacturer.

Have fun!

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Sounds like an exellent platform to start with. I take it your block uses sleeves. I'm not familiar with your heads, but if they are oval ports I'd stay on the smaller cube side(454-468) for a street/strip motor. 480+ cubes with square port heads can be a little lazy on the street, but awesome if you are winging it down the track at 6,500+ rpm's. I take it your intake is similar to a Eddy Victor jr. As far as your crank goes Callies is an exellent choice, but unless you have really deep pockets their Compstar 4340 is more than up to the task. For my money Weisco makes the best forged BB pistons you can buy. I agree with both David and Mike that a custom grind cam from someone like Chris Straub would optimize your combo. I don't like cookie cutter camshafts. I know you already know this, but no single roller timing chain assemblies. don't forget the titanium retainers for your valve train. The last thing I can think of is once you decide what you are going to use this beast for make sure your whole fueling system from the tank through the carb is up to the task. Quick Fuel is probably your best bet, but if it's a mild build a 850 Holley HP carb will do just fine. I've learned a lot with the three incarnations of my 489 and if I ever take mine down will go smaller on the cam, carb, and smaller on the heads as well as an oval port design and will make more useable real world power for the street. I hope this offers you some insight.

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Thanks for the info, I appreciate it!

The Zl1 block is all aluminum and it has sleeves that are siamieased. The bore is 4.25 stock. Although it will take a crank with a longer stroke I'm going with a 4.25, I don't like the rod angle on the longer stroke and I think it will give it a little more longevity. I do like the Callies crank but I'm also looking at a Crower crank that is bladed and lightened. I really have to watch myself here because I am a gearhead/drag racer and tend to go over the top.

The heads I have have a 117cc chamber and 290cc intake port, they say they flow 327 @ .60 and 350@ .80 before the hand porting was done. Thats a 2.300 intake & 1.88 exhaust Stainless valve and I do have titanium retainers. The intakes ports are about 2 1/2" tall and about 1 3/4" wide and the intake is similar to the Victor JR in its a large single plane, but this is much bigger. (Trust me I know Bigger is not always better and that all of the components have to work together. I think you can see the drag racer coming out in me with this build.) As far as a carb goes it probably will be about a 1050 dominator.

Well, thats it for now... Let me know what you think...

Oh, and the compression will be about 11-1 and I want to run pump gas.

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Thanks for the info, I appreciate it!

The Zl1 block is all aluminum and it has sleeves that are siamieased. The bore is 4.25 stock. Although it will take a crank with a longer stroke I'm going with a 4.25, I don't like the rod angle on the longer stroke and I think it will give it a little more longevity. I do like the Callies crank but I'm also looking at a Crower crank that is bladed and lightened. I really have to watch myself here because I am a gearhead/drag racer and tend to go over the top.

The heads I have have a 117cc chamber and 290cc intake port, they say they flow 327 @ .60 and 350@ .80 before the hand porting was done. Thats a 2.300 intake & 1.88 exhaust Stainless valve and I do have titanium retainers. The intakes ports are about 2 1/2" tall and about 1 3/4" wide and the intake is similar to the Victor JR in its a large single plane, but this is much bigger. (Trust me I know Bigger is not always better and that all of the components have to work together. I think you can see the drag racer coming out in me with this build.) As far as a carb goes it probably will be about a 1050 dominator.

Well, thats it for now... Let me know what you think...

Oh, and the compression will be about 11-1 and I want to run pump gas.

 

looks like a really fun build...one thing you might want to look at is the 2.30 valve....just be aware of where you want the motor to operate. In all the testing we did on mine we found the the 2.3 valve hurt the low lift numbers on my 305's. So if you're keeping peak power under 7000 you might look at some 2.25's.... wink

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Dave you are right, having the bigger valves and ports tend to flow bigger numbers at higher rpms. I know that can be a real problem because of the large volume the air slows down and looses velocity. And in the real world for usable street power it does go out of the rpm range that I would use 90% of the time. Although it will not change the size and flow ability of any of these things, what do you think about running a little smaller cam to comensate for some of this?

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running that on pump gas is going to be tricky!!! and a smaller duration cam will make it even harder to do, I agree about the 2.3 valves, you can't always have your cake and eat it too!

 

a dual plane intake may help the bottom end some, along with a 4150, 1000cfm over the dominater carb

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Dave you are right, having the bigger valves and ports tend to flow bigger numbers at higher rpms. I know that can be a real problem because of the large volume the air slows down and looses velocity. And in the real world for usable street power it does go out of the rpm range that I would use 90% of the time. Although it will not change the size and flow ability of any of these things, what do you think about running a little smaller cam to comensate for some of this?

 

you took the words right out of my mouth....the right cam would definitely help that. I would contact Chris Straub and let him design a cam that fits the rest of the combo, he will work magic for you. 423 391-7774...tell him Davey sent you....

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Well this is my car, most of the body was sanded to bare metal before I brought it home, had to prime it with a rattle can before the ride home. You can see the 402 in it and the new motor that when done will be going in. Just about to pull the body off the frame. Thats it for now...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I have the body off of the frame and the engine and transmition out. Just picked up an aluminum water pump and some other parts. Was thinking about selling the 402 and some of the other parts that I will not be needing. Kind of torn about it right now because if I ever sell the car may be nice to have the old engine and things. (air, cruse, etc.)

Would like to post more pictures but still haven't figured out how to do it without useing a link.

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Hope to start cleaning the frame this weekend. Going to go at it with a wire wheele for starters and may end up blasting it if I have to. No place to blast right now without going out side and its been to cold for that... Any pointers feel free to share.

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Do yourself a favor & have it blasted, guy here in Jackson does frames for $100. He will do anything you bring him, control arms, rear end, sway bars, springs, wheels, brackets etc. Fabers sandblasting 517 569 2287. When he's done with it take it over to Jackson Industrial Coatings 517 782 8169 & have the frame & everything else powder coated. Both are cheap & good.

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You have some good pic's of your Monte... Your right about the blasting, would be much easier just hate not working on my car. I have a big blaster but for a $100 not worth the mess. I guess I could start some of the body work.

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All of us here Im sure are capable of doing most of this sort of stuff ourselves, but sometimes its just more cost/time effective to have professionals with the proper equipment take care of some of it, especially the really dirty jobs. Allows you more time to focus on some of the more important/detailed things.

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