Monteman1971

Dave, I have the x-pipe on my car and it sounds great. I got the 2 1/2 inch mandrel bent kit from "Pypes". What I did was put flanges on the mufflers as well so that if I need to drop the system it's easy. In fact I have already taken it out once...no big deal. Check the pictures. http://www.monteman.com/New%20Project%2020037.html Steve

To take what McCall72 said one step further. If you have deep scratches you can actually sand them out I've read of some guys going as coarse as 100 grit! Typically I'll start with 600 and move all the way up to 1500 or 2000 grit and then buff it. I usually sand everything with 1500 or 2000 to start with any way. My 2 cents Steve

I agree with Kevin, dark colored Monte's did not have the black rockers. Before my restoration, my paint was all original (1971 antique green) and my car did not have the black rockers. My car was built in Canada for the States. But as with many things GM did back then, they weren't consistant Steve

Maybe the saginaw was used for the 3 speed on the column car but the 4 speeds were Muncies. The M20's and M21's where the same transmissions with the exception of gear ratio. The M20's where used on heavier cars. My M20 is pretty stout using the 32 spline yoke, as far as being close ratio, I don't think so but it feels just fine to me Steve

Dan your close but actually it is the M20 in the Monte's for the lower first gear rather than the M21's which where the same. The M22 was the "Rock Crusher" that was used on the high performance cars. Steve

I have never seen a 2 piece cable, only one piece. No matter what the engine/trans combo. The exception I guess is with cruise control. The Chevelle cables are the same, if your parts guy can't find it under Monte. I got mine from one of the resto parts supply guys locally. He deals in Chevelle's only (so he thinks, lol). Steve

I was told by "Classic Air" that 3lbs of R134 should be used when recharging the system. Steve

If you have a "Canadian" built car, they can tell you everything about your car that the build sheet would have provided on your specific car. If your car was built in the US it will give you info about general production and production codes. It will also give you some restoration sources such as "GM restoration parts". I don't know about it being "free" for US cars but when I requested mine (Canadian built) they charged me $45. Hey 70Kebi, I see you list yourself as NYC, there's a bunch of us out on the island. Where exactly are you in NY? Steve

I've replaced a couple of headliners. I see you are doing rust repair around the windows. If your taking the glass out, don't put it back in until the new headliner is installed. It's a lot easier when you don't have to deal with the glass being in the way. Secondly, buy a few boxes of those 2" binder clips at any office supply. Clip the parameter of the headliner and then one side at a time, un-clip and stretch and re-clip until you get the liner nice and tight. Once your happy with it undo one side at a time, glue, stretch and use the windlace to finish. If you can, do it outside in the sun. It's not easy, but if you take your time you can do it. Steve

Yearone has them for $83 each. www.yearone.com Steve

You can still get NOS hinges from Chevrolet for about $90 each. You can also get NOS hinges from many of the restoration supply house's. I would stay away from the reproduction's as mentioned by Bob. Steve

The 71-72 core support is also different than the 1970 (just in case you didn't realize). Steve

The holes are 2" in the door and 2 1/4" in the cowl if you are going to use the factory boots. Mike, that was some step by step instructions. It would have taken me an hour to type that much with only 2 fingers I'm sure that a lot of guys are going to get some use out of them. Steve

I only knew George from the message board but my thoughts and prays go out to his family. Steve

Hey Kevin, As stated many times above....Thanks. Thanks for starting a great club. I've had a Monte since I could drive (22 years now) and when I found this club not only did it give a great forum to talk Monte's but I've meet and made friends with people I would not have known otherwise. Now for the obvious question....where's Peter's response??? I'm nervous, we need someone to lead the flock. Good luck in everything, I'm sure your going to remain a member. Steve

I think I paid $45 with shipping. They give a complete package with more than just a build sheet. A lot of facts and figures also. Steve

I agree, those do it yourself car washes use some harsh detergents that could stain your new paint. Mineral spirts sounds like a good idea. I use a good wax and grease remover (DX330) from the auto paint supply house. It will take off the over spray (light stuff only) and won't harm your new paint. Steve

I think Rick has covered all the bases. The only other thing I would check are the body mounts. If they are rusted you can fix them but its labor intense and you'd better know how to weld or it's going to be big bucks. Steve

I have an original Monte crossmember in good shape if you are interested but do not have the rubber bushings. I replaced my crossmember with one from a Chevelle because the Chevelle piece bolts right to the frame. I think the reason why GM used the rubber ended crossmember on the Monte's is because it has less vibration than a solid mount (like the Chevelle). From what I understand all the Chevelle crossmembers are the same, they are just mounted in different holes on the frame depending upon which transmission you have. And yes, I've seen plenty of them rusted off at the ends. Steve

Ok, lets all save a little money here. For those of you whose under hoods are a blackish color, use Krylon semi-flat black in spray cans. I've read in more than one restoration guide and have used plenty of it myself and it is a perfect match to the original color. Best of all it's one of those colors that if you ever have to touch it up, it always blends and matches perfect. It can also be used on your firewall, frame rails, rad support and almost anything that GM painted black under your hood. Always wear a respirator, the life you save may be your own. Later, Steve

You may have dirt inside your marker light. Take it off the car and rinse it out. Maybe your bulbs are the wrong ones, they should be 1194's (99% sure, check book at parts store). As far as your windows, it sounds like the tracks/rollers are worn out. For the window not rolling up, check the window stoppers they regulate how far the window will roll up and down and are adjustable. Good luck, Steve

There was a 20/20 show (or that type) that showed this was the case of many gas station fires. These people would get out of their car without discharging the shock until they held the gas pump creating a spark and igniting the gas fumes. They said it's always a good idea to make sure you've discharged any static electricity you've generated inside your car by touching the car's metal as you get out. Steve ------------------ www.geocities.com/monteman1971

Thanks guys at least this gives me someplace to start. Dave, I got your e-mail, thanks. Steve

Thanks Aaron, I have that in my manual as well but what does "TCS relay" mean? Isn't it odd that the A/C systems wiring is not in the manual! Thanks, Steve [This message has been edited by Monteman1971 (edited 11-18-2003).]

I have 2 relays attached to the firewall in side the engine compartment (above the distributor) but yet cannot find them on the wiring diagrams in the manual. I think that they are for the A/C but there is no wiring diagram for the A/C in the manual? Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the A/C? and how do I check if they are good? Thanks, Steve ------------------ www.geocities.com/monteman1971