vince

Well I did some checking this weekend and found the starter with dirty connections, worn out teeth, I’ll defiantly be changing it out real soon. I checked the timing, vacuum lines, Battery cables and battery connections everything checked out good. All I have to do is pull the carburetor and check the bowls. I did spray carb cleaner hoping I would see a difference but I was just wishful thinking. Anyway does anyone have advice on a new starter High Torque? Rebuild? Refurbish?

Larry, now that you mentioned it I remember a few times in the last month where the starter made a loud screeching sound. I think the starter is getting ready to go. Mark, I'll take all that good information into consideration when I change out the starter Thanks

honestly I don't know how old the starter is, back in 03 when I got the car i tried to start it but the starter in place was bad (the Bendix didn't move) a friend gave me the current one and I've been running it ever scene. I guess it's time to change it.

The battery connections are good the battery is 6mo old. Mike It doesn't feel like it's tight on compression, it just seems to drag or crank real slow. When it does start there is no noticeable smoke from the exhaust. Doug, it sounds like I'm having the same issue you had. I'll start by adding a heat shield to the starter since the headers are only inches away, if it continues to drag or crank real slow I'll change the starter. As for the fuel bowl I'll have to do some homework, I'm comfortable taking the carb off and on but not so taking it apart. in addition I'll check the timing. lastly I'll check the fuel pressure. Thanks for the help

The Battery is 6 months old, I guess I could check the connections on the starter, however it cranks strong when it's cold and drags when its warm/hot, solenoid?

So here’s the deal , When the cars sits for a week or so it takes a while(3 or 4 cranks while pumping on the gas)for it to start, I’m guessing the fuel line is empty and the mechanical pump take a few cranks to get fuel to the carb.this might be common but I'm not sure. Once started everything is alright and it runs fine, the problem is when I shut it down and let it sit for 30-40 min and try to restart, that’s when the it seems to drag when starting almost like it is struggling to turn over. If I stay on the key for 10 seconds or so it eventually fires up. So here is the open question is this a timing issue? vacuum issue? or fuel issue? Any ideas to where I start? Stock 350/350 Edelbrock intake and 620 ABF carb, HEI dis.

Tony, So sorry to here that your family is going through this. We faced Cancer early last year with my 16yo son, and many here know what a battle it is. My prayers are with you and your family. Vince

nice post!! I was having the same problem searching. The newer then /older then thing had me all kerbobbled.

Hey ChevyKat do you know if you have to change the differential from a 2 series to a 3 series to accommodate the 3.31,3.42's? Or can yo put the 3.31/3.42 on the same differential as the 2.73?

Congratulations!!!! I know the feeling. http://www.firstgenerationmontecarlo.com...;gonew=1#UNREAD

I recently replaced my old dented oil pan cause it was leaking around the drain plug and it was ugly. I used the Felpro one piece and now it has a small/ very small drip at the bottom of the crank. In this case it's probable the installers fault.

LOOKING GOOD!!! I like your choice for the valve covers.

That's some collection, I'm with Rod you should keep the 72. Nice Car!!!!!

I have the same air bags that Dennis has only I run 10bs on mine. The ride is real soft and hardly any bouncing. for the front I bought some "big block" springs from summit. I 'm happy with the stance but I'm sure it will change in a few years. lower, lower.

I have a set of lowers non boxed

I'm partial to Blue but I voted for RED. White was next in line.

CKD 0318B1 looks like it has 2:73'S, I am not sure what the B is for.

Thanks, I'll go look for it.

I guess I should have put this under drive train, but i don't know how to move it.