John S

In Atlanta fights are breaking out in stores. John S

Was wondering what type of radio some of you are using. I bought one that fits into the original opening, it quit working. I do not want to cut into the dash if I don,t have to. Maybe someone can tell me what type they have had success with. John S

I do like the plastic inner fenders they look good just can’t understand or figure out why the right side is so far off it is nowhere close to conforming to the shape of the wheel well.As I stated earlier if I could buy just one I would go again with the plastic and see if that one might fit better I don’t want to buy two and have the same issue again John S

Thank you for your help and advice. Hopefully going to test the brakes tomorrow and see if I’ve got that problem resolved. John S

I got my plastic inner fenders from Year One. But The Parts Place was stamped on them and year one says they get them from the parts place. The right side is the one that fits bad it doesn’t match the fender opening, the left side fits fine I would get another plastic fender if I could buy just one. I can only buy them by the pair. As far as steel inner fender wells go I heard the ones from AMD are of good quality John S

Anyone use Chevelle steel inner fenders? Heard they will fit with some mods. Bought new ABS plastic 3 years ago. Mediocre fit, did not match wheel opening and already cracked. Also they were thicker than original tighten the bolts and they sink into the plastic. Thinking about going steel. Any thoughts? John S

Nice. Back in the late 70's I always wanted a 59, friends laughed at me . They weren't worth much back then I lived in Wisconsin, most were rusted away. Worth a lot more now.

Has anyone out there used in line tube master cylinders or power break boosters? I ordered the kit and the surfacing on the top of the master cylinder looks like it was done by somebody on a tequila hangover with a grinder. I ran a flat file over in a couple times and there’s no way that top lid is going to seal. The Studs on the master cylinder are some metric size. They are not 3/8 -16 because the original lock nuts will not go on them, And the nuts that came with the kit were too big for a 3/8 bolt. The distribution block must be machined incorrectly the brake light will not go off after pulling the switch from the block and using a depth mic to measure the switch is long enough to ground out and turn the light on. I know I’m venting but I have bought Tubing from them before and it was a good quality this kit that I received the quality is terrible. Just wanted to know if anyone else had any trouble with them with these parts. Anyway anyone have any suggestions where I can get a good power brake booster from? John S

I probably went overboard on the grounds. I have two from the radiator support to the frame, two from the engine to the firewall and a larger one from the body to the frame.

When adjusting the brake pedal rod between the pedal and the booster how much free play should there be? I know For manual brakes it is 1/16 to 1/4 of an inch but I think on power brakes there should be no play does somebody know for sure? Thank you John S

The only parts that I have not replaced is a distribution block a small one that is back by the rear axle and the rubber hose going to the brake lines on the rear axle otherwise it’s all new I’ll get it eventually just start eliminating some things. I did take a coat hanger and pushed the shuttle on the distribution block from both sides it did move felt spring loaded but didn’t move that smoothly I have a new distribution block I’m just going to replace it

I have a new block that’s why I threw air at the old one I Believe that part that shuttles back-and-forth is stuck being 50 years old and all and when a car sits for a long time brake fluid doesn’t hold up well. It appeared as though the front brakes were not working the way they should which makes me think something in that block. Anyway I have a new booster master cylinder, Hold off valve and distribution block I believe once it gets properly bled that should take care of the problem since there would be nothing left to replace or rebuild John S

I’ve had brake problems for a while now. Brakes would not lock up under a hard stop. Since I’m now retired I decided to look into it and was wondering if anyone has knowledge about that distribution block below the master cylinder and how it works. I’m not talking about the brake hold off valve but the distribution block mounted to the frame. Is that supposed to have some type of small valve or a ball in it that will shift if a line breaks I tend to believe that that may be my problem got a new distribution block just want to make sure that it doesn’t shift on me again. If anyone has some knowledge on that I’d appreciate it thanks When you pull out the brake switch that screws into the block and you put compressed air to one or more of the outlets or inlets should something shift inside that you can see all I could see is something that looked like a small rod inside there. John S

Thanks Thomas I installed new bushings 3 years ago I'm confident I can loosen the mounting bolts and carefully lift the body at a specific point and get them in. John S

On a 1970 Monte Carlo there are two body bushings right above the rear axle which just sit on a crossmember they are not bolted in is it necessary to put those in or should I leave them out? Would it hurt to put them in. John S

Here is a picture from my 1970 small block four speed

Good luck. I felt the same way in my line of work. I was so happy when the company offered a package to get out. I took it I feel better overall with no regrets. I'm only 60 but I've put myself in a position where I do not have to work again. Retirement is great. Again good luck I'm sure you will enjoy it. John S

I’ve always liked the look of a bench seat 4 speed John S

Like to see an interior picture. John S

1979 to 1982 I had a 402 4 speed w/ bench seat Monte. I wish I never sold it. My current Monte is a 1970 350 4 speed. I do not have a build sheet. The numbers stamped on the pad are T1106CNJ. The partial vin is difficult to see due to some pitting on the pad I needed a magnifying glass and a light held at a certain angle and I could make out that the last 6 #s of partial vin do match the vehicle vin. With that info I am positive that mine is an original 4 spd. car, even though the trans #s don't match, since CNJ applications were manual transmission. A previous owner stated trans was replaced because the original one "blew up", which is quite vague. Anyway that's all I have to go with and I enjoy driving it. John S

Let me clarify. I used SEM satin black

I used satin black on mine and it looks fine. I also have a second console I repaired with sheet metal pieces that I used a polyurethane adhesive, I believe made by Loctite, and small screws. I can post pictures of the repair when I get console out of attic if you wish. John S

Thanks

Are those 1/4 panel pieces available?

I am missing those quarter panel pieces what are they called and are they available?