Jason72

Everything is new. I adjusted them numerous times but if they get too tight then you have problems rolling up the windows or closing the door with the window up.

LOL that is not exactly what I was looking for...

So I'm looking for a solutions to keep my door windows from sucking out at 130 plus mph. At about 120 they start pulling away from the weather strip. Any ideas?

I have it on my 72. It works great. should have done it sooner. The command center is junk. Even though it is 'self learning" I believe you need to have some tuning experience to get it perfect. My engine is far from stock, so it may work great out of the box on a stock motor...

First it all depends on too many things, valve train parts and geometry, was the bottom end balanced, head flow, ... That being said, that cam is smaller than what I have in my 427 sbc and I only pull to 6200 rpm. you have more cubic inch so I would say less than that. my advise is to get it on a dyno or a drag strip and see where the power curve is at. A tired 305 will turn 7k with no load(spinning tires). sounds to me like you need some suspension and tire mods to get it to not spin so easy. I also assume it is a hydraulic roller lifter so just with that I wouldn't go too much over 6k even if the rest of the engine is capable.

fuel volume. verify pump is putting out correct gpm and make sure all fuel hoses are the right size and not kinked (saw a lot of new lines get kinked when tank is installed) I had a van come in the shop once that would do that and I stayed on the gas until it stalled, pulled over and pulled the top of the carb off and found it empty. here the body mounts were sagging and pinching the fuel line closed. ran fine all day until you "got on it" also saw cam lobe for fuel pump wear...

the description of the balancer says that there is a single line on the balancer every 90 degrees. if the engine starts and runs ok then you either have the timing light hooked to the wrong plug wire or the balancer is not assembled correctly. If the engine runs poorly the distributor timing may be that far off.

The oil pump drive shaft shown in the first picture and the picture of the oil pump is a factory shaft for a 1966-1969 366/427 tall deck truck engine (points ignition). in 1970 they went to the more common shaft/ distributor gear configuration. To put a hei ignition on that engine you will need to replace the oil pump shaft with a 1970 or newer shaft, a hei distributor housing and a tall deck distributor shaft and gear-- which are longer than a small block to accommodate the tall deck

Just a gasket maker called "great stuff" it's tough and works good. I would assume you would pick up 30-40 hp just putting the heads on. They are a very capable street head. You will notice a difference

just saying to check, I have done a few vortec head builds and have seen the guides on stock heads vary +or - .020. also for the intake gaskets, glue them on around the intake ports with permatex great stuff. they like to suck oil in from the lifter valley. let it dry over night before starting the engine.

Do your homework on those heads. The valve lift on that cam is right at "too much" for stock heads. The retainers will hit the guides. Also watch your compression as the heads have smaller chambers

In the pic you posted the parts at 9:00 and 3:00 are clutches. Open differentials do not have those.

as far as I can tell, eaton 12 bolt

That is a posi carrier. The part the ring gear bolts to

It fit in mine when I had it in

check summit part number 610-166

never mind, I see your knurl is a larger diameter...

I had to put longer studs in my axles when I replaced my wheels. I do not have the part number but I got them from NAPA and I do remember that they were listed for a chevelle. They were the same all around except longer.

I say either one, as long as it will smoke anything with a blue oval on the grill...

I just finished a 4l80 install in my 72. Only mods I had to make was take the x pipe out of the exhaust, aftermarket crossmember and extend my column shift linkage about 2 inches. no tunnel mods needed. readjust pinion angle.

Thant looks great. Nice work!!

when you say "pull back in to 3rd" , Is that driving and getting on the throttle or manually pulling the shifter to 3rd ? or is it just sitting still in OD and pulling the shifter into D?

That sucks about the trans but who won??!!!

Thanks guys.

Good day at test and tune!! new best!! https://carousel.dropbox.com/photos/cc/V1osmDwgGrmntQy