MC1of80

Really?¿? That's interesting. 🤔 All these years.....

Did you use Teflon tape or the liquid version on both the filter cap and the fuel line?

As long as it prevents squeaks, you should be good to go.

Removal of the shims is what my son had to do to both of his cars. Make sure to coat the back of the pads, where the shim was with "disc brake quiet" or similar product. The shim is an anti- rattle/squeak shim.

I have the steel ones in my 70 SS and they bolted right in. Try to install them with the weight of the car on the wheels or stands near the front bumper to keep the nose from sagging and misaligning the fenderwells.

Thank you for the laugh!!! 🤣

Yes, it is kicked out for the bigger tank like the top plate is. I believe it's Henshaw that sells both the top plate and the extension.

Hey Dan. Big Red, my 70 SS was built at the Flint plant, has/had a/c and has the 3 core radiator top plate and matching core support. It now has a 4 core that I had in stock. I removed the a/c box due to not having all the pieces and header clearance. The build date is 9/69. My brother's 71 SS has the 4 core rad with the top plate and rad support extension. A/C car. I know it's not a 70 but hope it helps.

Glad you are making progress and what was advised is working out. You were warned by myself and others about that fan!!! Git er gone!!!! Just glad it wasn't you fingers or someone else's.

Philips screw through the metal tab on the column.

Yes, same principal. The vacuum can on the distributor turned towards the carb is advancing the timing and towards the firewall is retarding. You want to advance. Change the oil to a thicker oil with zinc and then see how the valves sound.

When you get a chance, play with the timing. Advance it a little. See how she reacts.

Factory oil pans are 5qt and one in the filter for a total of 6qts. 10w30 in my opinion is too thin for an old school engine. The tolerances are not as right as the new cars. I recommend Rotella 10 40. It's diesel oil but cleans and has a high zinc content for the cam and lifters and it doesn't hurt the wallet too bad. What temp thermostat did you install? I like the 160 some like 180. It's up to the owners preference and climate the car is used. Did you adjust the air mixture screws? Check the float level? Timing? It may be a little low. Great progress you are making!

I understand the reasons for the smaller carb. Still avenger series holley. The lacking department is most likely due to the fact that big block chevys came from the factory with 750-800 cfm carbs. Add intake , headers and the such, the 670 is too small. You may be able to make it better, ie jets, squirter/s but I feel you still will not be happy with the overall performance of the engine. What viscosity oil are you running? Tapping when hot and not cold could be the oil being too thin. Is the electric fan still working? Believe it or not, the carb could be making it run hotter if the carb is running lean. Pop the old one back on and watch the temp. You already know the old carb was messed with. Most likely to try and make it act bigger cfm than to was. Or, old school trick- with the car running at night, go to a dark place, as little light as possible (obviously at night) open the hood with the engine still running and see if the headers are glowing reddish or possibly even cherry red. If so, engine needs more fuel.

Legendary is the place! Did the front buckets and rear seat with their foam and fabric covers, black. Also used their door panels. Had an issue with one over a yr later and they fixed/replaced it in a matter of days. Definately will use them again and recommend them. Car looks great!! Keep the pics coming!

The choke is a personal preference. I myself live in NY and don't have chokes on 3 out of 5 first gens. The other 2, a 71 SS454 and 71 "barn find" 402 are totally stock and have the chokes. Look up a choke stove for a 71 402 with a quadrajet. If that doesn't work, look up electronic Rochester choke. That may work better for you.

Great work! It's like looking in a mirror. My brother, for the most part changed almost the same exact pieces on my 71 402 4speed. I think I still have that car somewhere. Lol and shame on me!

Nice progress! Like I said, pretty solid for a North Eastern Monte. Lolol

Glad the advice helped. 600rpm at idle is a little low. Factory setting is 750rpm in park. I adjust the rockers the way you described. I would do that and see from there. Check the spark plugs wires and make sure they are locked into the plugs. The intermittent noise you describe when decelling could be a bad plug or even a header gasket leak that is most noticible when decelling. Something to check. Could also be a "lean" pop. Did you change the carb yet?

Love the pics! Looks to be pretty solid for a North Eastern Monte.

Sorry Rob. Lol. The vacuum hose under the float bowl, in the front, should go to the transmission modulator and the one in your hand, pictured, should go to the distributor. To make 100 percent sure, with the car running, take the hose off of the carb, that's in your hand, there should be very little,if not no vacuum. Bring up the car off of idle and the vacuum should get stronger. If this is the case, that hose goes to the distributor. The other hose should have strong vacuum at all times. You can also adjust, slightly, when the trans shifts by the tiny adjustment screw in the transmission modulator vacuum port.

Sorry Rob. Lol. The vacuum hose under the float bowl, in the front, should go to the transmission modulator and the one in your hand, pictured, should go to the distributor. To make 100 percent sure, with the car running, take the hose off of the carb, that's in your hand, there should be very little,if not no vacuum. Bring up the car off of idle and the vacuum should get stronger. If this is the case, that hose goes to the distributor. The other hose should have strong vacuum at all times. You can also adjust, slightly, when the trans shifts by the tiny adjustment screw in the transmission modulator vacuum port.

Glad the maiden voyage went well. Check to see if you have constant vacuum going to the transmission vacuum modulator from the carb. (most likely) Glad the electric fan is working good. I was the one who mentioned to take the mechanical fan off. It ain't doing squat! You will also pick up some hp without it. I know you're not looking for more, but it's a small bonus. That and not loosing fingers. The rear end may have steep gears in it. Like 3.73, 4.10. if you are going to change the rear cover gasket, count the teeth on the ring hear and the pinion and divide to get the ratio.

On an a/c equipped car, it vacuum operates the door in the cowl for the vent/ blend air.

The registration on NY vehicles before 73 is also the title. It MUST say Transferable on it or if you sell it, the next owner won't be able to title it. Ask me how I know. Lol If you have a 73 or up, look at your registration and it will say Non-transferable because of the addition of the separate title.