Jared Richey

My rearend is an original 2:73 ratio, but now has a 4:11 no problem but everything except the housing itself is brandnew.

That dang Filter sure is pricey enough! Geez, $40 at the link I clicked on searching google.

Yeah you like the old ?????????????2 Tribute I put in there? I'll take credit for this whole Engine Compartment redo, I agrevated the hound out of him, that we needed to do it, so one day last June of 2008 before the Broken Foot incident. We just looked at his car and he asked "want to start on it now" I said sure, Lets go for it. 10 Months later.......... And No Its still a Powerglide, I'm on his case about that one too. 1st things 1st...COVER UP THOSE DANG HOLES IN THE FIREWALL WITH SOME COWL SCREENS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Engine Resto Pics Check out the pics. Coming along!

I used the Silver Wheel Paint you can buy at a parts store. As for as polish, any good chrome polish will do, just keep rubbing on it, and it'll bring it out if the chrome is good enough. The "Mad-Dog Chrome Polish" from Luttys Chevy Warehouse really brought my grille out more than the regular liquid stuff I use.

You'd be surprised what a 40 year old 70 Grille looks like detailed out with some silver paint and a new emblem. As long as the chrome is still there, a good polishing does the trick. If you're wanting..."perfect" then have it rechromed.

Actually adding some options even though a car didn't come that way can actually help its value especially when it comes to Buckets/Console, gauge package, and power options. The Fiber Optic option would sure get a lot of looks on a 71 SS. That would be cool, but the right person may would pay good money for that system for a 70 model. It would be very unique though. But the thing is on a car build it the way YOU want it!

If it wasn't for Leo, what would have happen to those HUNDREDS of Monte Carlos that he parted out and the parts he bought up? Its a safe and sad bet to say parts availability wouldn't be what it is. Great to hear it worked out for you.

My hands are still dried out from all that rubbing. Paint thinner makes you feelly good...j/k I agree, Clear Coat. Kevin you know I like shiny things.

GlassTech... A1 on quality, I have a 4" pin on hood and fit and quality is excellent, but the Fenders I've heard are a pain to get to fit correctly. One guy said he had them on and off like 10 times. Steel fenders are not that heavy, and to me the weight savings of fiberglass is not worth the trouble of getting them on and the safety of steel.

Robyns always been known as a trouble maker. Back to the post... You're right that GM lied on HP ratings in the Muscle Car days for insurance purposes, what I've heard is the LS6 Chevelle had more like 500+ HP instead of 450.

Hey Bill I'll probably go with a Y-cut out. I had done thought about it.

I'm going 3" from the Header Reducer to the Muffler then 2 1/2 out the back to give me enough back pressure for the street. When I go racing she'll be all open header baby.

I agree, have it done by someone who has done it before. Hopefully in most cases the cage will just be to be "legal" at the Track for a certain ET or faster, hopefully it'll never be put to use..... You're right by the looks of your car in you sig, now is the time!

I believe the Vertical bars running down are black. The rectangles inside the grill are silver. Also the area that is inset right below the Wide Chrome is black.

Use a BRILLO pad. DO NOT USE AN SOS pad it will scratch the chrome. A few good rubs over the grill with a Brillo pad and that hase will be gone. Then of course chrome polish will polish out the chrome. you're gonna probably repaint the inside rectangles of the grill anyway, so use the brillo over the whole grill. Some sandpaper inside the squares may also be used where the paint is going to be. Don't let the sandpaper rub on the chrome thats not going to be painted, the sandpaper will of course scratch it.

I have th Holley 110 GPH pump. No Drag Race use yet, but seems to be fine. I also have a Fuel Pressure Regulator.