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You may want to put some type of spacer in that opening when you install the bushings, so you don't squeeze the arm together. I use a piece of aluminum angle , cut to the proper width, slip it in the opening and then install the bushing.

Sometimes, it's the only way to get an intelligent conversation. (Case in point 🥴).

Hey Joe, No worries, you can just hang out with Dennis & his dancing pal . But really, it's shaping up that you may be able to hang out with us if you really want to go, so don't let that stop you from going. Sounds good Rob, we'll just take possession of the banner and supplies at Carlisle. We'll be using it at Syracuse which we're also attending, so I'll just keep it with me. As far as signing up the other guy, what's the point. Wasted enough breath on that situation.

I'd be willing to possibly come out and park with you Dennis. If more of our club members would consider it, I'm sure we'd be able to use the FGMCC banner with the club officer's blessing. Still need to look at the dates and scheduling to see if it'll work, but there's some time.

I usually do my best thinking in a different room.... You may be able to squeeze it on the sides of the kinked area to open it up a bit.

I was too lazy to go out in the shop to crawl under the car, lol

Congrats! Can't wait to see pictures!

The bushings will still only go in one way. Here are a couple of pics from the web. Like Tom said, one side of the bushing has a shoulder, the control arm will have a corresponding larger hole to fit that shoulder. It's basically a square peg/round hole situation.

Pretty comical & ironic, considering we've asked you both privately & publicly to become a dues-paying member of the FGMCC numerous times. Actually, it's not comical, it's insulting to the supporting members here. That takes balls.

Try 'The Parts Place'. Ames Performance may have it as well.

Uhhhh...well I guess you can believe what you want to... 🍆

Supposed to get another storm, starting in a couple of hours. They're predicting heavy ice storms, power outages and maybe 4-8 inches of snow by tomorrow. Put the snow tires back on, got a 20 lb. bottle of propane filled this morning, and now just sitting back waiting for it to happen. Luckily, only a few more months & we'll be in Carlisle!

This page of frame measurements is available in the GM Factory Service manuals, for future reference. Frame MC-72.pdf

I'd paint it orange, to match the era of the car .

and "Illiterate Educating" 😄

So here is something I just came across on FB. A guy posts a question about how his rear quarter extensions don't appear to fit real good after putting quarter panels on. Here is just one of a few great answers. Even more disturbing is 3 people 'liked' his answer.

Here are some pics of what I have. The one with the cross lines was when we were trying to show someone here how to measure for a bent frame. If I can find the original, I'll replace it.

I have one that I snipped from that picture around here somewhere Steve. Once I find it, I'll post it up here. It might be a good one to put in the 'Technical' dropdown page somewhere too. I'll figure something out.

That's absolutely true. What we're saying is just put some weight on the suspension to get the sway bar end links started. This has nothing to do with tightening up the control arm to spec. Those would still be left loose until you get the full weight of the car on the suspension, then tighten to spec. This will help prevent stressing the control arm bushings, especially if they're rubber.

Eyes on is always the best option, though not always practical or convenient. I've looked at a couple vehicles in the past for members of othe forums, if someone here is close enough, I'm sure they'll help you out here.

Yeah, it's entertaining though sometimes. Especially when someone is trying to sell a car, listed as all original and posts a build sheet with it. Happened recently where one guy did that, listed as 'rare' factory console, black interior, defroster, power windows, locks, etc. Build sheet shows green, bench seat interior...... I tell him it's 'rare' indeed. Never saw a console with a bench seat before . It didn't have any of the other options listed on the sheet either. My guess, someone found a wrecked car in a salvage yard at some point and took all the good stuff, put it in this car. The guy was still deceptive the whole way. Plus it was an exterior color change that had to be dragged out of him, after pointing out the codes. He kept reposting the ad a few times, and I kept pointing out the deceptive issues. Then it looked like some poor soul purchased it, buyer beware. It had a lot of good stuff on it, but the false info was the issue.

Thanks Bryan. I (we) all try to do our best here to find factual information or documentation to answer questions presented here. It's one of the things that differentiates this place from some of the other sites/groups (Facebook especially) that have less than accurate answers, information, deceptive sales listings, etc. Especially when it involves less than safe practices, or just plain stupid.

I poured thru the GM Heritage & Factory assembly manuals. Looked thru the standard equipment & option listings. Can't seem to find a dual horn for 71 or 72 anywhere. Odd...? It's all old documentation though, who knows what was offered or added during production. Electrical specifications section in the Heritage paperwork says 1970 has 2 horns, 71/72 list one horn. A quick search shows we discussed this a little while back: https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/25232-dual-horn-setup/

All factory type parts? Lay the sway bar on the ground, see if it looks twisted (I imagine you did that already though). Sometimes I'll drop the weight of the car on the suspension to get the sway bar end links close enough to attach. Your situation with the end link bushings is about normal, they'll be deformed to some degree when tightened.

My GF loves the Grinch, in fact, she got me those slippers, as well as a few other things along the way.