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Yeah, the 1974 gas crisis 🤑

It may be hard to remove, if the spring is expanded out. May have to twist it backwards, to 'screw' it out. If it's always been in there though, with no trouble...hmmm

Not something I've seen before. Maybe someone put it in there a long time ago to prevent vandalism? How long have you owned the car, who owned it prior, etc.

Sometimes there are what looks like ribs in there, from the bends/kinks in the tubing. Can you take a picture?

On newer, 'emission' controlled cars it's usually because the gas tank vent valve has failed close, thus not giving that displaced air any place to go. A 1972 Monte has a vented gas tank, but not anything like the systems in newer cars, may be worth looking into though. Is it possible something is blocking the filler neck? Critter, rag, sabotage, etc... I'd steer more towards that initially, based on what you're saying, especially with a gas can (less volume and flow than a gas pump, but still overflows).

Pretty much seems like the most logical way to do it, to me. No different than doing collision work and having to replace trim/emblems that were either double-sided taped on, or replacing body panels and having to figure it out.

Nope.

Looks good Tom! (I flipped the bottom pics around)

The Baer & Wilwood rear disc brakes I put on my Monte & Z/28 were in the 4 figure range, each. Then the rest of the stuff as Tom mentioned. Would I do it again...Yes.

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Here is what I got. There are a couple of different icons that appear, based on a points system. They're labeled "RANKS" & "BADGE' They look at all sorts of things, number of posts, reactions given, reactions received, etc. The below pics show what they are & the order that they're awarded.

Not automatically. We can modify some of the 'registration' info pages to mention it. It's on the list of things to do. Rob also does a good job of welcoming new members & I'm guessing he has a general 'cut/paste' phrase he uses. Maybe that can be added to his message, or I can do it real easy when someone new joins. We could always re-name it ' New Member - 30 day trial'. That would be easy. I'll research the possibility of maybe an email too. Not available to the general public. Let me go into the program and come up with some type of screen shot of what's in the background.

Thanks Willie! On a side note, was up 'til 0445 this morning, testing the 'New Member' group functionality. It appears that it does work as intended, so it will go into effect today. The time frame was decided at 30 days, as Rob has seen a lot of people start up as supporting members fairly quick. So, to re-cap: - People that first sign up to the club will initially be put in the 'New Member' group. This group will have wider limits as far as posting, pictures, messaging, etc. - If they chose to become supporting members, to help the club, they'll be put in the "Members" group with full privileges, upon payment of the small $25 yearly cost. - If they chose to do nothing, they will automatically transition to the 'Non-dues Paying' group in 30 days, with reduced privileges and functionality of the site.

I have been catching up on sleep, then there are times I'm up most of the night. 35 years of shift work will do that to you 🙃

I figured as much, but just in case..

You're welcome! It was a very good question.

Red - Administrators Green - Moderators Blue - Dues Paying Members (includes 5, 10, 15, 20 year members) Brown - Non-Dues paying members Pink - New Member - This is a trial group right now, that will give new members a set period of time, with broader limits. We stress liking lots of pictures, but if we start them in the non-member group, that would be counter productive. If they choose to not see the value of what is offered here in a reasonable time frame (yet to be determined) and help support & keep the site running, they'll automatically transition to the non-member group. We're testing it now to see if it actually works as intended.

Thanks, Tom. There's a LOT more in various other places, these were easy to take a picture of. Nearly 40 years in the Instrument/Electrical Industry, one tends to 'collect' a lot electrical terminals, zip ties, black tape, etc., etc., etc. 😁. You know yourself, it's nice to have that stuff, "In Stock". Below is some more of the smaller stuff I recently sorted, plus the hardware/Grade 8/Grade 5/Metric storage bins in the new building. Last week I started to add that third row of louvered racks for the bins to the right. Also the bottom pic part of just one wall of some more storage bins. The basement...forget it, a crapload more terminals, fittings, parts, pieces, etc.. (That Doug Nash 5-Speed shown is available if anyone is interested, includes the Hurst Comp. Plus shifter too.)

Lol, there's 'Packard' in the middle of the pack there, Mark 😁

I have the Packard 56 terminal kits here if you just want to use factory type connections.

Finished moving people into the 'Non-dues Paying' member group yesterday. If you feel like you've been put there by mistake, let Rob or myself know & we'll see if it was an error. Any other issues, questions, or concerns can be addressed here as well.

Possible evidence it was dealer installed maybe? Scotchlock connector, easiest way to wire the reservoir (time is money, tech did it quickest way possible)?

I installed that AAW 510336 harness in my car. Very happy with it for the most part (I didn't care for their headlamp or dimmer switches, I used GM ones instead.). It does NOT include the A/C harness, but AAW does have that as well. All top quality stuff. Keep in mind, it will use the newer style fuses, plus has a lot more circuits and much more versatile than a factory replacement harness. Depends what you're doing with the car, as Mark said. It will take any future upgrades you throw at it, such as power windows, stereo, EFI, electric fans, etc. Summit has that harness in stock, and you also won't find many people here that'll recommend OPGI...at all.

That's the starter I used on the Monte & Z/28, Mark. Part of the problem with the PowerMasters, was they wouldn't spin the engine fast enough for the EFI to get a 'Sync' signal. A couple of themjust didn't fit either, even if you 'clocked' them with the available adjustments. There is a replacement for the GM one we have that's cheaper, supposedly. I forget what the part number/vehicle application is too. There's no guarantee it has the same output specs as the hi-torque GM one either. Note: If using that GM starter Mark & I used, you NEED to use the correct bolts to mount it to the engine, GM# - 12338064

I went out and measured the distance of the trims lower edge, to the bottom of the door. Looks like 0.060" is the number, as you mentioned earlier.