Scott S.

If that doesn't work, there's always fuel injection.

Yes, the covers are held on by clips/tabs that keep them in place. The door handle ones slide away from each other, but you need a small flat head screwdriver to push the tab just inside where the strap goes in. The mirror one pops out, and the wire/knob piece is attached with a set screw on the backside of the cover.

Mine came with the same issue.... With the air cleaner cutting into the fabric. It was pretty ratty, and I replaced it when she was repainted. Turn out to be a good thing, gave me a chance to clean up the surface rust on the underside of the hood. I just went with a shorter open air filter to clear the liner.

It's more for noise...... You can get replacements from just about any restoration parts place, usually around the 30 dollar price range.

Just knowing that whatever little thing I do to Montelishi makes her unique...... It may not even be noticed by most, but it's something that I wanted to do.

Rob Peters posted several diagrams under "70 Monte Carlo wiring diagrams"..... Might have what you're looking for.

And cleaner too..... Those little ABC bottles make quite a sticky mess. CO2 is a nice, clean extinguishing agent.

Hey Carl, I've been thinking about the same thing. Anyone I've asked seem to lean towards the Holley "Sniper" set up. But as I'm using the same intake as you are, the MSD "Atomic 2" looks like the better fit. (linkages,controls,etc.) And they're made by the same parent company. As to the fuel system, Holley makes an "in tank" pump/sender unit. Remember, fuel injection requires about 55-60 psi to run, where carbs are only 5-7 psi. So you'll have to change all your fuel lines to rubber ones. Hope that helps, Scott.

WELCOME to HOLLYWIERD......

Anyone catch the "halftime" show at Nascar's L.A. Bowl ?? (Ice Cube) The crowd shots were hilarious !!! lol

HELL !!!! I'd be happy to pay that for a liter !!! :s

My question is how big is that pickle ??? These forks are fair sized.....

That's part of the charm of owning an older car..... Always something to keep you busy.

I went with the Alpine compact amp...... LOVE IT !!! Easy to follow diagrams and hides away nicely on the inside of the firewall.

Wiring will do that....... lol

That's a lot of little holes with the potential for rust....

Now you just have to be wary of the Red Dwarf lurking under the hood.....

I found that the groove wasn't deep enough and wound up using the next size down bolt to clamp the rag joint on. But other than that, it fit pretty nicely.

Yes, the better clearance for the wires, the better. The reason I ask about the key being tough to turn back is that the actual switch may be dirty and slow to disconnect when you turn the key off. I had this issue with a '76 Chev Silverado years ago. The key tumbler was worn to the point that if I didn't pay attention to the position it was in when I pulled the key out, it would still make enough contact to drain the battery overnight. Just a thought....

Just a question.... How stiff is the operation of the key ??

Hey Rob, When I first swapped the booster, I didn't set the rod long enough, and the pedal hit bottom before the piston was fully engaged in the booster. Gave it that really stiff feel while not fully pressurizing the lines.

That's why sometimes rewiring to 2-20 is required.

Is the battery draining when the key is off ??

The original rubber hoses at the wheel end of the system may look fine, but old rubber loses it's strength over time and may be bulging when you apply the brakes..... You could also check the push rod to see if it's not been set at the right length.

That's just an "old age" thing...... LOL