monte70car

Why not fab that area with some sheet metal? How far out does the rust go from that hole?

Well I put plastic up this morning to get some primer on the roof. Got two coats of primer got some over spray that dry in the primer so a quick sand next weekend and then another coat of primer before the color goes on.

With the up coming holiday here in the USA I plan to get the top of my 72 in color. Now since this will be a painted top what is the best way to paint it? Is it front to back or side to side? Going to lay down a 2k primer with the last coat having some black cherry pearl metallic mixed in before the color coat gets applied. An thoughts?

Keith I have front lowering springs for a big block and some qa-1 shocks no miles on them.

Abe my understanding is covert is different shades of brown.

The interior color is a three digit number.

It could be saddle, dark saddle (m42 is the color code). The trim tag on the cowl would list a three digit number for the interior.

So you can do the stock tunnel with an electric fan. I have a dual electric fan setup against my aluminum radiator with the sides being cut for the fan. Then I added the stock clutch fan back but with a clutch that works at low speed.

Now if i understood correctly you said you have a 72. My understanding is in 72 the voltage regulator was internal. Now I could be wrong and miss understood the person. I know my 70 had an external voltage regulator which was removed for a one wire alternator which was then wired up as a three wire alternator. My 72 was brought as a roller but there was no regulator on the core support nor the firewall. If the battery leaked that sounds like the alternator was over charging the system to me. Not sure on what tach you have but if its the stock gauges you could have burn out the PCB on the cluster. There is fuseable links built into the harness which is supposed to burn out before any damage is done to the electrical devices. I've re-wired cars, moved cars over to 1 wire alternators then convert them to three wire as there is an internal regulator that you can access by removing a plug.

Here is where I got my fiber optic repair kit http://www.mamotorworks.com/Corvette/product/fiber-optic-light-monitor-repair-kit-602643-1 I used the kit to make a complete line for my washer bottle.

I have a part number for a repair kit not sure if they are still available, I will get the number in the morning and post it. I got it from corvette central for 84-86 vettes as they used fiber optics fr lights.

My 700r4 uses a cruise control brake switch to unlock the stall speed. There was a a small toggle switch installed but it stays in the off mode.

Tony my 70 and my dads nomad has Bowtie stage 2 700r4 with their 2200 stall. My 70’s was built for the 2.73 gears but I do have a factory 3 series gear out in the garage. Used to Moster trans you could watch them build your transmission not sure they still have that.

You might be able to get away with a 72 spear as it’s wide at that point. A 70 spear is to thin. Remind us what year you are working on.

Hood looks to be for a 71 base on that hole.

My though is did you get the right printed circuit board (PCB)? The light coming on when you first start the car sounds right your gen light should also come on and then go off. Also the sensor could be wrong as the idiot lights and the gauge are different. When it’s running the light should be off and only come on when the car gets hot or at the point to overheat. Have you added a small water gauge to see what the temp is?

Russell the light wires for my gauges tie to each other and then tie to the dash lights. My gauges are water uses its own sending unit, trans temp uses its own sending unit and oil psi which is mechanical. The tach gets its feed off the tach wire for the dash. All 12v wires are tied together and goes to the fuse panel, and grounds are tied together going to one ground point. Yes it might not sound like a wise ideal to tie items together as the cause if one acts up will be hard to find since they all will act up at the same time.

Rick usually once its at wide open throttle being a Q-jet only the front will open. What holds the lockdown cable in place is a e-clip the stud should have a provision for one. On a stock stud it is flared at the end which the over size hole slips on. Not on my usually system so I can't provide pictures of the two different studs.

The wiper motor on my is from a 83 Trans Am, so it may look different but the wiring is still the same.You should have a white wire coming off the motor to the pump. There is a ground which is the black wire, then there is the high speed wire which is the light blue wire. The other blue wire goes to the pump so when you push the wiper switch in it pumps the fluid to the hoes and then on to the window as the wipers wipe. so at the washer pump you have a white wire and blue wire side by side. On the motor it's self you have black wire at the top, center the two white wires, and then the other blue wire at the bottom.

Christopher here is a picture of mine disregard the green wire as it’s for the windshield washer fluid.

Christopher I will have to see if I have pictures at the motor. Right now we have a really bad wind storm so I'm not heading out to where the car is at. On my 70 I have a 83 Pontiac Trans Am wiper motor on it and the wipes sit below the hood. This is what I used https://www.americanautowire.com/PDFLink/92969169%20510108%20IN%202.0.pdf I have a factory wire manual for a 70 somewhere which shows the color and plugs better.

Christopher what type of bulbs did you put in the cluster after you did the wiring? I've done two of the AAW harness mostly with the updated fuses. I've never had an issue with the dash not lighting up or burning up a headlight switch. I'm sure you followed their pin lay out in the instructions when wiring the cluster plug, that would be the only reason for things to not work. If you put in LED they can go in one way compared to the original bulbs that let juice flow both ways. As for the wipers if the wires at the pump are plugged in the wrong spot the wipes will keep going even with the switch off. All first gen Monte's I've see have the recessed park (which means the wipers sit below the hood). Only the 72 have a extra ground wire for the wiper switch 70 and 71 (i believe) don't have the extra ground wire.

I went with it for my 72. You want a dry cooling system frist as they product doesn’t mix with water. My motor was pulled and sit for years so that made it easy as it was dry. So far I’ve put 4 gallons ($45.52) a peicd in the cooling system (just an alum radiator not heater core) and it could probably take one if not one and half more to fill it up. You want an almost 99% water free cooling system with their product but the boiling point is mean 300 degrees.

To speak on behalf of Keith he did receive the mounting bracket for the seat when he ordered. He was changing over from bench to buckets so he brought the factory style bucket seat mounts that welded to the floor. The mounting brackets for the Procar seat would not allow the seat to mount in the stock location and if the seat was in the stock location it make the seat look twisted in the car. We (me and my late father) made it so the seat looked squared in the car by changing the floor broad mounting bracket. Now if you have the right round stock on hand you probably could cut the mounting tabs for the seat off and length the mounting bracket for the seat.

I tied mine to the dash light.