502ci

I am not sure of the theory of using the insulation but I would guess more for sound than anything. I have not had insulation on mine since maybe 1985 when I took it off and the hood never seemed hot...matter of fact when I was younger in the 1980's I was parking in a field with a girl and a cop came up and asked how long was I there. I told him I just pulled in (which was true) so he put his hand on my hood and said it was cold and that I was lying, lol. I have a fiberglass hood on it now and that never gets hot either with no insulation.

This is a good starting point and may be your actual problem. A loose connection somewhere can give the illusion of power when metered or a smaller load is placed on it further down the line. It will loose connection when you put a full load on it such as trying to turn the motor over. That loose connection will sometimes open up and you will have the symptoms you are describing appear.

I have never seen a transmission that gunked up...

Sadly Torque Tech Exhaust is no longer.

If you want that true dual exhaust sound(stereo sound) don't use a crossover pipe...although you will lose a little power with the size of exhaust you will probably run. Unless you run a 3 1/2" exhaust then it isn't really necessary and would be way overkill for what you are planning anyways.

Too funny, I was gonna post the same thing with a picture too...

I say whitewalls...actually I am surprised you have not gone that route already. As far as the old tires on there now I say do burnouts with them till they blow, lol.

Nice car for a 17 year old... I am starting to think you only like black cars...

Sorry to hear this and hoping the best for his family. After clicking the link you posted I will say he did get to attend one of our best meets and that was in 2011.

I have a Powermaster on mine. Been so long I can not remember the amps I chose but I want to say 160 maybe. The only problem with the one I chose is that you have to bring the rpms up at start up to "excite" the alternator. Not a problem if you have a choke but I removed mine so the car idles very low and if I don't blip the throttle at start up it will run off the battery and will kill it. What I mean by excite is once you raise the rpm's for a second or two you can see on your volt meter that the alternator is now active and battery is now charging.

Your tire is around 26.6" tall...have you checked out RPM calculators? https://www.ringpinion.com/calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx

Do you have a big block or a small block? If it is a big block do you have an aluminum intake, heads, etc.? I have the 450# springs on my QA1 set-up and it is fairly stiff with my big block, aluminum heads, and intake. If you are looking for a stiff front end and have a your car similar to mine then like Sam mentioned those springs will be too weak.

I think you are limited to plastic or fiberglass...I could be wrong though. I have the one in Dave's link above, it is a decent product.

20 years is a long time to own a car, congrats. Every time I look at or take mine for a ride I relive my youth. Wish I would have taken more pictures of me and my Monte when I was younger but cameras back then were not like they are today.

I will be the second to say no.

255/50's will fit in the back with that wheel width and back spacing. As for the front I am thinking the wheels would be pulled in too much with that width and back spacing and rub on the inner fender or an end link. I have 255/50/15's on my front with 4.5" of b.s. on a 7" rim and I remember it being close...your width and b.s would bring it in a 1/2" closer. I know you are talking 16" rims and tires but for the most part they are very close to the 15". Also when you mention 275/60's are you talking 15" or 16"...I never heard of that size in 16"

Took the Monte for one last ride this year and then tucked it away in the garage for its long Winter's nap.

Did you see this sticky thread? http://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/3188-wheel-and-tire-data-base/

I am guessing you meant to say "would not"?

I assume you are looking for security if you are trying to hide it? Are you also looking to disconnect the battery because you have a drain on it? If it is just for security it might be easier to hide a small toggle switch inside the car that kills the ignition this way you do not have to open the hood each time you get out and back in.

It's hard for many people (myself included) to replace a tire that looks almost new...but a 10+ year old tire seems to be the magic number on any Google search as to when the the tire will start to fail no matter how perfect it looks. At the very least stick your finger nail in the tread and compare that to a new tire and you will get an idea as to what is happening that your eye can not see...the old tire is noticeably harder. A new tire will be soft and you can imagine how that alone will translate in your ride. Rubber breaks down that is a fact...not too long ago someone from this sight said they had original 45 year old tires on their car and they were perfectly fine to drive on the highway and they worked in the tire industry their whole life. Of course I had to disagree and say they would have a blowout when they least expected it and I was glad I lived in a different state so I knew at the very least I would not be the poor person next to them on the highway when it happens.

X-pipe is the best, H-pipe second, and no cross over is last...unless you have a 3 1/2" exhaust then a cross over pipe is not really necessary and actually would be hard to do with an exhaust that big. I too like Sam have a complete 3 1/2" exhaust system on my car...up and over the rear axle to the bumper. Unfortunately Torque Tech where I got mine from closed their business recently.

I agree. Not having an overdrive gear in your 4 speed that would be as high as I would go.

Alize LowRod, my girlfriend liked your car. I asked her of all the cars in the entire show field which she liked the best and she replied the pink Monte Carlo

And independent suspension.